I limped it home and have to pick up some parts. I was on rock auto and tried to figure out what I'd need.

They have a slave cylinder and a master line separate and as a kit. Should I just get the kit and replace my line or should I just do the cylinder?

I was also debating doing the clutch at the same time. Rock has brute clutches for $150-$200. It's either gonna be one of those and a large order from them or two separate ones. A rock one and a spec one. However specs are $350 plus shipping.

Any help is appreciated.


EDIT as for now i bought a dorman slave for $56 and a national pilot bearing for $9 from rock auto.

 

Get a Luk clutch kit, they are the stock replacement if you do. Order it off of amazon. Rock auto is to expensive for my taste, however they have a great selection of part numbers for me to use on amazon haha. I got the Luk for $138. Just get the slave cyl., the line does not need to be replaced unless you have a leak. I would suggest doing the master cyl. also but its not really necessary.

 

i ordered them already. just lousy timing. my vaca starts next sunday and this is the holiday weekend. I'm also glad to hear LUC is a stock replacement in case I change my mind this week.

 

Ok, as I posted in another thread, I'm having shifting issues. When I told my buddy what the symptoms were he said it could be my syncros and that my slave going bad would put extra stress on them.

I checked my trans fluid in case it was low. It wasn't but I decided to change the fluid. I installed 2.56L of fluid and the manual says to install 2.65L. Would this .10 of a liter matter? It was leaking out the fill plug before I closed it.

I used a vacumm pump and it looks like someone died on my garage floor.

 

SPEC for $350!?!?!??? Since when?!?!?!??? I just looked 'em up like 3 days ago and the same one I've got now, the Stage II, is like $430 plus shipping now!


That little of fluid difference in the case won't do anything.

I'm sorry, your buddy must not know this application....slave cylinders fail at a 3:1 rate to master cylinders and trans fail is somewhat rare in a stock truck. This is all by my experience...but then again, I lost 2nd gear in my 1st trans, my 2nd trans went thanks to a twisted mainshaft, and my 3rd trans is possibly having syncro issues. All this with about 150k and 90k of it on 35's, geared, a lead foot driver with a new motor.

If you've not fixed anything from the OP months ago, I'm still guessing on a bad slave or a master. More likely the slave in my experience. I've had better luck with Raybestos and Sachs slave cylinders. But apparently now you can't get Raybestos.





OH.....and FYI.....Spec Stage II was installed at about 65k in 2006 and I'm currently at 140ish ready for a new clutch. It isn't completely necessary, but when they get older, they start to become kind of a bear to drive. No slippage, just excessive chatter when engaging it. Combine that with either a bad slave or master, I want to replace the clutch now. I've dropped trans/pulled motor/had access to clutch 4 or 5 times since the install and every time the disc looked near new. Definitely a clutch I would suggest to an occasional off roader/daily driver. The thing grabs like hell even being as old as it is. Power shifts at WOT are still very fun and snappy.

 

You missed the other post Shane. I'll cut and paste it from the other thread, I didn't wanna jack his thread or start a new one. I just thought I would add to my own tranny issue thread.

Cut and pasted.

"I am having some issues, it's related. I replaced the slave 3 months ago, fluid is topped up but it's still hard to get into gear. The only thing I can think of is when the clutch was installed, there was a burning fluid smell. I thought it was excess brake fluid and it eventually went away but it could be gear oil. I had him replace those plastic plugs on the shift rails for dorman ones. It's possible that one of those came loose and puked all my gear oil over time. I'm gonna look into it today and replace the gear oil anyways.

My question is, how much gear oil? Just to the bottom of the plug? Also what do I use? Dextron or mercron"

 

Mercon V.

Have you tried bleeding the Clutch again?

 

No, it's not wet in there and the fluid is up. I can give that a shot, I pray to god, allah, budda, ganesh and my cat it's not my syncros.

 

Even if it is. You've got a manual. Much easier to rebuild that than an automatic.

 

Have you replaced the flywheel? I go to UNOH for auto/diesel and when I had manuals class I was talking to an instructor about hard shifting/engagement issues on my ranger, since its a hydraulic set up there isn't any adjustment for when the flywheel wears down and the slave may not have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch.

 

Yea that was done with the slave job. I'm chalking it up as weather change. I think it did this last year around this time too.

 

is it hard to get into gear all the time? or does it seem to get better and worse?


I will say that I have 120k on the original clutch/slave and time for me to think about replacing it soon. Mine does exactly what shane said with the clutch chatter. Also its hard to get in to any gear randomly. Sometimes it will go 2-3 days before acting up again.

 

Just on cold startup. I have to double clutch but once it's warmer things shift good.

 

thats exactly what mine does. its the slave.

 

You read post #6?

My slave was replaced. Mods can you change this title to "Morris' tranny issues" or "updated" of some sorts?

 

"Morris tranny issues" Is that like a botched sex change or something lol! Stop riding around with them big girls and you wont have this issue! Need an F-150 for all that man!