tamporary conversion
 

however silly or dumb this may seem, i am considering doing it anyway. i have a 2007 ranger, four wheel drive single cabin with short bed. and am considering changing it to just two wheel/rear wheel drive. but while only removing the front drive shaft and the transfer case and not doing anything with the front axle assemblies. i am wondering, if the front of the rear drive shaft that goes into the transfer case would still make connection with the transmission? or, would it be too short yet; minus the transfer case?

then, if i buy the two wheel drive, rear wheel drive drive shaft; part 5L5Z4602F, would it be long enough to connect properly to the transmission?

You will need a two wheel drive transmission,

If you remove the transfer case, there is no way to connect a drive shaft.

You can just remove the front driveshaft if you want

In 2WD the transfer case is the same as a driveshaft extension, straight thru to rear driveshaft, so no extra power draw
And disconnecting front drive shaft prevents chain drive in transfer case from spinning

And as 2011Supercab said, transmissions come in 2WD or 4WD models, no conversion possible, have to replace transmission with a 2WD model to connect to a regular drive shaft

well 2011 supercab, i called a local ford dealership parts department for part information and they told me that part 5L5Z4602F is the driveshaft that i would need. even matching my wheel base of 112. please elaborate to me specifically why and how i would need a two wheel drive transmission?

I don't think any of us can be any clearer. If you don't believe us, how about you just buy the driveshaft you need, and go ahead and do whatever it is you have planned, and let us know if it works for you?

okay. thank you all. i will put an addendum here that my statement about calling a local dealership, was before i even begun this thread. i have some modification ideas that may make it work, in reference to the following Ford illustration.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...e159102654.jpg


number 105 is the four wheel drive extension that the transfer case attaches to. part 99 is the extension for rear wheel drive vehicles.

i am considering getting part 99, and removing part 105 from my current transmission. in rear wheel drive, the drive shaft connects to part 94. part 104 attaches to it through extension 105 and the transfer case

i will get part 94. attempt installation into my current transmission and its related parts. and close off the transmission by installing part 99 and other related parts. then attach the part the dealership told me i would need for rear wheel drive.

regardless of time and money wasted in whatever degree, i will do this modification and post results later

Won't work

Shaft 104(4wd) is shorter than shaft 94(2wd), so won't reach the end of housing 99

You need to disassemble a transmission to change its output shaft, output shafts are part of main transmission they don't just pull out

You can pull out the transmission and disassemble it and install the longer shaft 94 and the 2WD tail shaft housing 99, but at that point just getting a 2wd transmission would be a better option

This comes up all the time with people trying to find a replacement transmission, they need 2wd but can only find 4wd, or visa versa
There is just no simple way to do this conversion, car makers have tried for YEARS to just have one transmission that works with 2wd or 4wd, just doesn't work out well, so they don't try anymore

well ron, i think you confused my statement here. i want to take out shaft 104, and switch it with part 94. then switch extension 105 with 99 and then connect the driveshaft part i mentioned at the beginning.

so i will be using shaft 94 in extension 99, with the rest of the parts in my current transmission.

i am quite aware of the many many conversion attempts out there. and the difficulties experienced in what people want to do. trial and error is my solution :silly:

I understand, just can't be done with transmission in the vehicle was my point, and if you pull out what I assume is a working transmission, why disassemble it, sell it and get a 2wd transmission
Or just get a 2wd transmission for temporary use, must be 2001-2011 model to have the correct sensors needed by 2007 computer

Still a bit confused on the "why do this at all"
Transfer cases are not that expensive if that's the issue, BW1354s were used in all Rangers regardless or engine or manual or automatic, if it was a 4x4 Ranger it had a BW1354, 1990 and up
Heck, you could even look for an EMPTY BW1350 use in Bronco II, just had a shaft inside and pump, used on 2WD B2s so drive train would be the same on 2wd and 4x4 B2s

We understand what you are saying,

But to take out shaft 104, you have to totally disassemble the transmission, it doesn't come out the back of the transmission like the picture shows.

But yes it can be done.

i dont mean to suppose or purpose that the output shaft can simply be pulled out. i know there are other parts of the assembly that are attached on the other end of the shaft. its not as easy per se as removing the truck bed, but the bed itself has its own steps before it can be removed from the vehicle....... it may take me awhile to get these other parts, but i will at some time in the future give a status on this project.

Assuming an automatic transmission, manual is a bit easier to convert, but just a bit

Go to post #23 in this thread: https://www.ranger-forums.com/projec...2wd-4wd-44350/

It has pictures and steps to swap output shafts in an automatic, this is a 2WD to 4WD but same procedure the other way

Just curious as to why would you want to do this if everything is currently working?

one reason, is cos i want to. also, i live in an area that rarely gets enough snow or ice to demand a capable vehicle. yet only now realising i should have just bought the two wheel drive version.... tho i dont do racing with it, there is still the weight reduction aspect of removing the transfer case and the front drive shaft. i very rarely drive this off road, and it is more or less an around town driver. no off road, no snow, no ice. just plain boring street driving. :D

well, i cant really afford to remove the transfer case just yet, not having money for the parts to switch out in the transmission. but today, i did remove the front drive shaft, the four wheel drive control module and mode select switch from the instrument panel, and the transfer case shift motor. the instrument cluster four wheel drive lights illuminated after i was all done. so i just put black tape over all that. now im good to go until i get those parts.

due to my statement on weight reduction, i measured and found that the removed front drive shaft is about 13 pounds. --yay!

Thank you ron for the link! i will check it out and see what else i can do.

IBMP200, just food for thought. There is a lot more weight in the front end relating to 4x4. I mean yes the driveshaft is a little and is a start. Its gonna be a long endeavor going down this road. But if your up for the challenge and time so be it!

You may want to think about trading it in for a 2 wheel drive Ranger. Your 4x4 is worth more on paper. Also, if you ever wanted to sell it in the future, it might be difficult for some people to buy a truck that was once a 4x4 now converted to 2wd. People are funny like that...and for the right reason.

If you've followed what else he has done to this truck, No one would even think about owning or driving this truck,
Power steering - removed
Power brakes - removed
Anything pollution related - removed
ABS - removed

Several attempts at removing PATS

among other things.

Just wondering, why?

Not even worth asking. You'll never get an answer that makes sense to you or I, it only makes sense to this person.

I think he should remove the drivetrain all together. Cut a large hole in floor pan and call this thing a Franger. The truck the Flintstones never had.

well 2011 supercab, yes i have removed alot, but not all that you listed here. power steering isnt yet removed
anti theft system isnt yet removed. those two are works in progress.

but you are correct, theres alot of modifications been done to the truck. it is technically illegal to drive, and some might say its unsafe to drive. but you dont hafta be an overly careful driver to drive it safely. i dont drive it fast and neither do i stop crazy or attemt tokyo drifts. alot of the safety stuff added on vehicles, and assists, are really unnecessary. even cookie-cut additions ordered by the government to help ensure drivers spend more on gasoline and replacement parts.

i have even disabled the tire pressure monitor using FORScan. i am considering physically removing the strap and sensor inside the wheel. these things are required by the government. but it was only instated, to help people remember to keep tire air pressue consistent. when we dont monitor air pressure, it can cause crashes.

i dont need help from the government or ford engineers to keep this ranger safely drivable.

it used to be that if you didnt want your car to come with a radio, it was optional. but now, every vehicle comes standard with a radio.

Cheers yall!!

Yes, you pretty much have to get an older truck, early 1980's at the latest, to get a bare bones "fleet" type with no extras, radio, power steering and power brakes were options
No power steering came with larger steering wheel in most cases
"Standard" trans still meant a manual trans, lol, "standard trans" is an automatic now-a-days

Only electrics were lights, wipers, and a fan for the heater
Fuel pump was mechanical

So when the gigantic EMP nuke strikes, the Franger will still run. Ha!

Nope, need a Diesel engine for that

Problem with anything electric and an EMP is that all wires act like an antenna, the EMP generates an electrical pulse thru those wires to any circuit connected to those wires whether or not the circuit is powered on or off

Gasoline engines need some kind of spark system to work, so...................

Diesel with mechanical fuel pump would be fine, but starter may not be, lol

PATS system does a mini-EMP, thats how RFID tags work
When you turn on the key the transceiver around the ignition lock does a mini-EMP that gives the RFID tag in the key handle enough power to transmit its unique tag number back to transceiver which PATS compares to key numbers in memory
So keys need no batteries, they are powered by an EMP, lol