Tips upon improving my brake pedal pressure. - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 11-20-2006
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Tips upon improving my brake pedal pressure.

When we put the superlift on last summer (1,500 miles ago), the front rotors and pads were replaced. The Pedal pressure was somewhat better, but could still be improved. Since then, it has gotten worse from normal wear and tear. This last saturday i replaced everything in my rear drums except the wheel cylinders because they were in working condition. I was hoping this would improve my pedal pressure, but it didnt do anything. I pretty much have to put the brake pedal down 50% of the way for the brakes to even start to grab, and 75% of the way to come to a complete stop. I realize with 35" tires braking is going to be worse, but it should not have much of a factor with the pedal pressure itself.

I have heard that maintenence shops such as tuffy, muffler man, etc have a machine that they can bleed the brakes with. I am thinking about trying it as i have never bled them.

Suggestions besides bleeding them?
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Old 11-20-2006
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what about performance front pads and slotted rotors to disapate some of the heat.......and converting the rear to disc brakes....
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Old 11-20-2006
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Find an open parking lot or deserted backroad. Put the truck in reverse and give it a quick burst of reverse power. Then brake hard. This is how the rear drum slack adjusters get adjusted. It helped mine after I did the front brakes.
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Old 11-20-2006
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Mark bleeding brakes is easy man if you still havent done it in a few weeks i will just take a drive up man. and on the rear wheel cylinders how did you guys say they where fine, just checking you pulled the rubber boots back and check to make sure they werent wet or any rust or debre in them? just checking
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Old 11-20-2006
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Biggest problem I have is rear brake adjustment. How are you adjusting them after you replace them or after time passes?

You can't rely on them to automatically adjust unless you do the back up and slam-on-the-brakes thing a bunch every so often.

When my rears are adjusted, my pedal travel is good.

I also have 35's.
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Old 11-20-2006
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are the wheel cylinders frozen?

very common on fords.

abd btw what ever became or your abs problem ?
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2006
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slotted rotors, performance pads, rear disks
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Old 11-20-2006
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might want to have a look at the master cylinder
vacuum lines??? idk i didnt mention that before but just thought of it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by telemaster1952
slotted rotors, performance pads, rear disks
this might help but wont fix the issue. its pedal pressure not stopping power.
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Old 11-20-2006
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if the vacuum line was not hooked to the engine he would know it!!!

a hard pedal would be the result.
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Old 11-20-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
if the vacuum line was not hooked to the engine he would know it!!!

a hard pedal would be the result.

cant the master cylinder start to malfunction causing less brake pressure?
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Old 11-20-2006
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havent seen this personaly zach but it could happen, most of the time when a master goes bad it will leak fluid out of the back where it meats the booster causing a low or soft pedal. sounds to me like he has a wheel cylinder frozen or his rear shoes are not adjusted right. maybe even on backwords.
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Old 11-20-2006
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When the rear brakes were done, i checked the wheel cylinders. I pushed the right 'post' in and the left post moved out as i pushed the right in. Dad said if they were froze, they wouldnt move at all.

I did adjust the starwheel accordingly to the rear drum, its about as tight as i want to go.
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Old 11-20-2006
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Well, try backing up kind of quick and slamming the brakes on hard a few times and see if your pedal doesn't firm up. It's really tricky to adjust them with the star wheels -- I don't ever get it right on reassembly and always have to cycle the auto adjusters.
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Old 11-20-2006
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I tried that last night after everything was back together John, and no go, still just as crappy as before lol.
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Old 11-20-2006
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Well, I'm out of ideas, lol -- that's what it's always been with mine. Must be one of the other suggestions, I guess.
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Old 11-20-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard

this might help but wont fix the issue. its pedal pressure not stopping power.

whoops
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Old 11-20-2006
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i still vote new calipers and wheel cylinders, but idk how much you want to spend. maybe even stainless steel brake lines front and rear??

so did you or didnt you bleed the brakes already?
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Old 11-20-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
havent seen this personaly zach but it could happen, most of the time when a master goes bad it will leak fluid out of the back where it meats the booster causing a low or soft pedal. sounds to me like he has a wheel cylinder frozen or his rear shoes are not adjusted right. maybe even on backwords.

i know my dad had a similar issue with his f150, but idk how similar the systems are. 1998 F150 and 2001 Ranger
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Old 11-20-2006
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you could also have a spring that came loose in the rear drums.....it would allow there to be no resistance on the (i have no clue what to call it...the peice that pushes the brakes against the drum)............drum brakes are pretty bad about poping springs off...

before i had my gears done, i had almost the same problem....i thought it was a brake issue with the big tires....my soon to be uncle in law who did my gears said i had a spring loose in one of my drums....when he put it all back together he fixed the spring and the brakes worked great from there on out....
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Old 11-20-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
i still vote new calipers and wheel cylinders, but idk how much you want to spend. maybe even stainless steel brake lines front and rear??

so did you or didnt you bleed the brakes already?
Defenitly not alot since i just spend 100 for the stupid drums. And no they have not been bled.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
you could also have a spring that came loose in the rear drums.....it would allow there to be no resistance on the (i have no clue what to call it...the peice that pushes the brakes against the drum)............drum brakes are pretty bad about poping springs off...

before i had my gears done, i had almost the same problem....i thought it was a brake issue with the big tires....my soon to be uncle in law who did my gears said i had a spring loose in one of my drums....when he put it all back together he fixed the spring and the brakes worked great from there on out....
Ah i doubt its a spring becuase the pedal pressure is the same as it was before i changed out everything in the rear. Those new spring sets are pretty tough, i cant see one of them coming 'loose'.
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  #21  
Old 11-20-2006
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if you haven't bled them since the new brakes, then that very well could be the problem.....prolly have a little air in the lines...
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Old 11-20-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01xltranger4x4
Defenitly not alot since i just spend 100 for the stupid drums. And no they have not been bled.

might want to try and bleed them if you can get the bleeders loose. seems like you said that was an issue?

if it is then leave them alone.
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  #23  
Old 11-20-2006
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I'd definitely say bleed the brakes before you go spending alot of money on any other parts.
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  #24  
Old 11-21-2006
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Yeah i'll plan on bleeding them next then. My buddies uncle owns a garage with a vaccum bleeder machine and he might be able to hook me up, if not im going to have to do it on my own
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  #25  
Old 11-21-2006
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Seeing as your in Bills area.. You might want to consider buying a case of beer, the same parts he did and go with rear discs. Theres a HUGE difference moving to rear discs. I used to have problems slowing down from speeds over 100, now its not an issue at all. The ABS system is on the differential, leaves the brakes open to modification :)
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