Transfer Case Noise - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 11-17-2011
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Transfer Case Noise

Hi I am new to the Forum I have ran through the threads on the drive line in general but seems my problem is unique or I would not be posting
I have recently acquired a Ford ranger 4x4 1993 and from the onset these are the issues
4wheel High works low range does not( Electrically Operated from dash)
automatic hubs checked and also uj,s are working fine
Just been through safety also checked all suspect drive-lines etc all serviceable
It will engage in 4wd High however makes a grinding noise which sounds like when driving its at the front, so jacked the vehicle up on 4 axle stands placed in 4 wd high all the drives are turning automatic hubs also operational however the grinding noise is emanating from the rear of the transfer case , the noise does speed up with engine rpm in drive as it does on the road Now im thinking this is the BW1354 electric transfer case so not sure yet what would be making this noise as I have no schematics or info to see how this system operates anyway i was wondering if someone can point me in the right direction,
I put my hand on the transfer case when running in 4wd and its definitely at the rear of the case but in two wheel drive there is no noise at all and everything functions fine
Thanks in advance
Phil Newbie
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Old 11-18-2011
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Ok so I had time to run a more thorough diagnosis ,After checking the electric motor out while disconnected from transfer case low range did not operate and high range did electrically but when trying to hold back the motor so it was under a little pressure this was stopping and ratcheting hence grinding noise emanating from transfer case due to incomplete engagement, "solved problem by purchasing a second hand one from breakers yard now I have low range and high range" with appropriate lights showing on the dash, however now due to having four wheel drive now I have a clunking or knocking sound coming from front axle area not sure left or right but noise is more apparent on full left lock, any takers on this is a UJ or an automatic locking hub not sure yet so any advice appreciated 4 wheel drive is operational but for the clunk which increases with speed so cant use it until I pinpoint the problem
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Old 11-19-2011
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Do not turn to full lock especially if you are on dry pavement, you will break something. Binding is normal under those conditions, and noise will happen.

The front prop shafts have u joints in them, and its not a fun job.

http://therangerstation.com/tech_lib...ont_Axles.html
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Old 01-11-2012
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I have a simmalar issue does it sound like a grinding and clunking? Also does it still make the noise while your in 2wd.?

Those are my symptoms and I have discovered that they originate from the tcase skid plate when the motor torques... possibly cause by a bad trans mount but I have already replaced that maybe its faultly? :(

Bad u joints are easily found just with a good firm grim on the front drive shaft and a good wiggle
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Old 03-14-2014
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Please tell me about the transfer skid plate ad what noise it makes. My 2006 4.0 4x4 makes a thud type of sound from the t case when under load in 4h & 4l. Had t case overhauled but sound still there. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-14-2014
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electric motor right behind transfer case which propopogates low and high ranges is weak and requires replacement renewal (common on rangers)
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Old 03-14-2014
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Philipx, The electric motor changes effortlessly between 2H, 4H, 4L and back.
Can that motor cause the clunk sound when transfer case is under continues heavy input load ie. driving in thick sand? Everything works OK when driving other terrain, as long as you don't keep it under constant load
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Old 03-14-2014
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are you experiencing wind up after prolonged 4Wd usage?
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Old 03-14-2014
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no windup
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Old 03-14-2014
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ok this is what happened to my vehicle, I am a Master Mechanic Journeyman Heavy Goods and Buses and Plant however I own this Ranger that I have used for many years and you are experiencing the same problems that I had , you say the transfer case engages effortlessly however to be sure you have to remove the motor( very simple job) and use a pair of water pump pliers or simmilar to turn the shaft from neutral into both range change positions 180 degrees 240 degrees and straight up to 360 degrees, if this changes effortlessly then also check the motor while off the vehicle with the electrics fitted in the various push button sequences and watch the shaft to ensure it moves to the correct positioning, my problem was that the lights would show that the vehicle was in 4wd high by indicator light showing on dash but was not turning to the correct degree mark thus the gears were not meshing fully consequently causing after 4 wd was engaged no symptoms initially, but after say 150 meters up to 5 km it would suddenly start grinding at the transfer case but the noise travels along the drive line to the front axel which might give someone the wrong diagnosis as to somthing else is untoward anyway I would say try that first and foremost as it is an easy test and let me know the outcome (Only a suggestion)
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