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Old 01-29-2010
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transmission removal questions

Im planning on taking my transmission out tomorrow and just had a few things that i wanted to clear up. I have to remove the shifter, transfer case, starter motor, and drive shafts and is that it before actually starting on taking out the transmission? Now in refrence to the problem in my origonal thread https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...irst-gear.html but incase you dont want to read through that. i have been having problems with it poppig out of first gear when taking off and then when just driving in first gear letting it idle. The other day i hit some pot holes on a gravel road and i completely lost 3rd gear.

How do i go about opening up the top of the transmission to look at the shift forks and other stuff?

Any help i could get with this would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-29-2010
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Originally Posted by littlered View Post
Im planning on taking my transmission out tomorrow and just had a few things that i wanted to clear up. I have to remove the shifter, transfer case, starter motor, and drive shafts and is that it before actually starting on taking out the transmission? Now in refrence to the problem in my origonal thread https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...irst-gear.html but incase you dont want to read through that. i have been having problems with it poppig out of first gear when taking off and then when just driving in first gear letting it idle. The other day i hit some pot holes on a gravel road and i completely lost 3rd gear.

How do i go about opening up the top of the transmission to look at the shift forks and other stuff?

Any help i could get with this would be greatly appreciated.


off the top of my head....
Tcase (and skid if you have it)
trans mount crossmember
shifter
wiring
slave line
shafts
starter bolts


On the 4.0 I found it easier to take out the y pipe, some have done it w/o it but it takes some manuevering. Might not apply to the 3.0, not sure.
I do know that I broke 3 studs on that damn Y pipe the first time I did it. Took a full set of oxyacetylene tanks and 3hrs to get those out, use caution!


The trans has an access panel where the shifter is on the top. Make sure the shifter is in neutral before taking it out (the shift fork, not the actual in truck shifter)
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Old 01-29-2010
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ok in your truck you have to rep up the floor then take out 8 bolts the you the remove the pan then you can see how it works
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Old 01-29-2010
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Originally Posted by buckgnarly View Post
off the top of my head....
Tcase (and skid if you have it)
trans mount crossmember
shifter
wiring
slave line
shafts
starter bolts


On the 4.0 I found it easier to take out the y pipe, some have done it w/o it but it takes some manuevering. Might not apply to the 3.0, not sure.
I do know that I broke 3 studs on that damn Y pipe the first time I did it. Took a full set of oxyacetylene tanks and 3hrs to get those out, use caution!


The trans has an access panel where the shifter is on the top. Make sure the shifter is in neutral before taking it out (the shift fork, not the actual in truck shifter)
Yes i forgot to add the cross member, skid plate, and wiring. where is the slave line and how do i go about getting it off? My ford service repair manual doesnt say anything about removing the y pipe so i guess im going to try to get it out before i take out the pipeing.
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Old 01-30-2010
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where is the slave line and how do i go about getting it off?.

Drivers side, front of trans about half way up. They sell a tool, but two screwdrivers has always worked better for me. You have to press in the plastic retainer all around (use two screwdrivers) then pull the line out. Makes sense when you see it, just try to get the plastic ring to push in.
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Old 01-31-2010
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well we got everything off but the exhaust but the dam bolt were so rusty and stripped out. so we said f it and put it back together guess ill drop it by a shop sometime
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Old 03-02-2010
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Ok I have spring break in a few weeks and am going to try and get it out again. since the bolts are stripped this could prove to be dificult. When you used the torch did you use it to cut the bolts or just to warm then up to losen them? Also i tried removing the O2 sensors on the exhaust pipe since i was going to be removing it but I couldnt get them to budge with a cresent wrench. Does anybody know what size they are or have any tips to getting them out? Thanks
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Old 03-02-2010
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I ussually heat them up cherry red and get under there fast and try it, sometimes I have to heat them 2 or 3 times. You shouldn't have to remove the 02 sensors just unplug them.
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Old 03-02-2010
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do you heat the top side up? im going to try and use so rust break oil first i think by spraying them several times throughout the day and then then work on it the next day. if that doesnt work then ill try heat. if i happen to break the bolt or just torch it off is it a big deal? do sensor unplug on the sensor end or the other end? sorry for all the questions but my truck is at home and im at college so i cant just go out and look.
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Old 03-02-2010
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Body lift it and youll never have to take the exhaust off again!
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Old 03-02-2010
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Im wanting to but its a few months off after the trans is fixed.
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Old 03-07-2010
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bump anybody got any asweres for me?
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Old 03-07-2010
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Instead of taking out the 02 sensors, UNPLUG them from their connectors. I'm not sure what all you have to take out exhaust wise, but I dropped the y-pipe and the mid pipe on mine. I'm not sure if the 3.0 and 5 speed is set up the same way, but the 4.0/auto has a 02 on either side of the y-pipe, both connectors are about where they bolt to the collector on the back of the engine. If the wiring on top of the transmission is the same, there will be a connector for the other 02 sensor around the transmission.
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Old 03-28-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toreador4x4 View Post
Body lift it and youll never have to take the exhaust off again!
So with a 3" bl i dont have to remove the exhaust I will have enough room to lift it up and move it back? I recently bought one and might have to put it on before i get it fixed to try and keep from paying $1500 bill.
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Old 03-29-2010
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yes, you will just lift the bellhousing of the trans over the exhaust
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Old 03-29-2010
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Just got done a 93 this past weekend, what a PITA! Again, those damn y pipe bolts were rusted SOLID. 17 years of New England rust and you could not tell where the bolt stopped and manifold started.
We tried the torch, but broke them anyway. Wound up torching/plasma new holes for bolts in the manifolds. That was not fun....

You have NO IDEA how many times the thought of a body lift came to mind....we really only needed an inch more to clear the pipe and NOT remove it! I think installing a BL before doing the clutch would have been easier!
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Old 03-29-2010
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well tihen i guess i might just have to put the BL on and take the transout myself then.
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  #18  
Old 10-30-2017
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I have found it is actually possible to remove and replace the manual transmission on my 1993 3.0 5 speed 2 wd Without removing the exhaust. Use a yellow ratchet strap to pull the converter just slightly towards the frame about 1 inch of movement is all that is needed. Slide the trans back and rotate top towards the passenger side about 90 degrees, then pull the tail over towards the drivers side and you can work it out of the vehicle. Need to drain the fluid and remove the crossmember. Top two bolts are easily accessed with a flex head ratchet and a short 15 mm. Just reach down behind the distributor.
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