Im planning on taking my transmission out tomorrow and just had a few things that i wanted to clear up. I have to remove the shifter, transfer case, starter motor, and drive shafts and is that it before actually starting on taking out the transmission? Now in refrence to the problem in my origonal thread https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...irst-gear.html but incase you dont want to read through that. i have been having problems with it poppig out of first gear when taking off and then when just driving in first gear letting it idle. The other day i hit some pot holes on a gravel road and i completely lost 3rd gear.

How do i go about opening up the top of the transmission to look at the shift forks and other stuff?

Any help i could get with this would be greatly appreciated.

 

off the top of my head....
Tcase (and skid if you have it)
trans mount crossmember
shifter
wiring
slave line
shafts
starter bolts


On the 4.0 I found it easier to take out the y pipe, some have done it w/o it but it takes some manuevering. Might not apply to the 3.0, not sure.
I do know that I broke 3 studs on that damn Y pipe the first time I did it. Took a full set of oxyacetylene tanks and 3hrs to get those out, use caution!


The trans has an access panel where the shifter is on the top. Make sure the shifter is in neutral before taking it out (the shift fork, not the actual in truck shifter)

 

ok in your truck you have to rep up the floor then take out 8 bolts the you the remove the pan then you can see how it works

 

Yes i forgot to add the cross member, skid plate, and wiring. where is the slave line and how do i go about getting it off? My ford service repair manual doesnt say anything about removing the y pipe so i guess im going to try to get it out before i take out the pipeing.

 

Drivers side, front of trans about half way up. They sell a tool, but two screwdrivers has always worked better for me. You have to press in the plastic retainer all around (use two screwdrivers) then pull the line out. Makes sense when you see it, just try to get the plastic ring to push in.

 

well we got everything off but the exhaust but the dam bolt were so rusty and stripped out. so we said f it and put it back together guess ill drop it by a shop sometime

 

Ok I have spring break in a few weeks and am going to try and get it out again. since the bolts are stripped this could prove to be dificult. When you used the torch did you use it to cut the bolts or just to warm then up to losen them? Also i tried removing the O2 sensors on the exhaust pipe since i was going to be removing it but I couldnt get them to budge with a cresent wrench. Does anybody know what size they are or have any tips to getting them out? Thanks

 

I ussually heat them up cherry red and get under there fast and try it, sometimes I have to heat them 2 or 3 times. You shouldn't have to remove the 02 sensors just unplug them.

 

do you heat the top side up? im going to try and use so rust break oil first i think by spraying them several times throughout the day and then then work on it the next day. if that doesnt work then ill try heat. if i happen to break the bolt or just torch it off is it a big deal? do sensor unplug on the sensor end or the other end? sorry for all the questions but my truck is at home and im at college so i cant just go out and look.

 

Body lift it and youll never have to take the exhaust off again!

 

Im wanting to but its a few months off after the trans is fixed.

 

bump anybody got any asweres for me?

 

Instead of taking out the 02 sensors, UNPLUG them from their connectors. I'm not sure what all you have to take out exhaust wise, but I dropped the y-pipe and the mid pipe on mine. I'm not sure if the 3.0 and 5 speed is set up the same way, but the 4.0/auto has a 02 on either side of the y-pipe, both connectors are about where they bolt to the collector on the back of the engine. If the wiring on top of the transmission is the same, there will be a connector for the other 02 sensor around the transmission.

 

So with a 3" bl i dont have to remove the exhaust I will have enough room to lift it up and move it back? I recently bought one and might have to put it on before i get it fixed to try and keep from paying $1500 bill.

 

yes, you will just lift the bellhousing of the trans over the exhaust

 

Just got done a 93 this past weekend, what a PITA! Again, those damn y pipe bolts were rusted SOLID. 17 years of New England rust and you could not tell where the bolt stopped and manifold started.
We tried the torch, but broke them anyway. Wound up torching/plasma new holes for bolts in the manifolds. That was not fun....

You have NO IDEA how many times the thought of a body lift came to mind....we really only needed an inch more to clear the pipe and NOT remove it! I think installing a BL before doing the clutch would have been easier!

 

well tihen i guess i might just have to put the BL on and take the transout myself then.

 

Hello there. I recently had to remove the transmission on my 1993 ranger 3.0 manual 5 speed. Having reviewed many online posts in order to gain any insight that might be out there on the apparently difficult removal and installation of the manual trans 3.0 without removing the exhaust or y- pipe, I wanted to make a post to help out any one who might be in this position. This post is based on my actual experience working on my 1993 3.0 with 5 speed manual transmission: first off, it can be done. Yes you actually can remove and replace your rangers trans without removing the exhaust at all. I have had my small truck for 15 years and have previously installed two slave cYlinders and complete clutch flywheel and rear main seal without removing the transmission from vehicle. Just rotate it top towards passenger side 90 degrees and slide it back then shove it up under the crossmember so that you can replace the necessary parts. Leave the drive shaft in the rear of trans so that you don't lose fluid. There is just enough room to slide the slave cylinder off the shaft and replace it too. Obviously, you can replace full clutch etc... slide trans forward until it is over the y pipe and then rotate it back and complete the install. RECENTLY I had to replace the transmission because it had been abused by previous owner. I nursed it along for years with fluid changes but the Time finally arrived. Got a used trans from 1996 3.0 manual 5 speed swapped out the speedometer hook up and it was a direct fit. The difficulty as we have all seen is getting the trans out of the vehicle. Do as described above and then place floor jack under trans and remove crossmember , drain out the trans fluid too and pull the drive shaft out of the rear then you will see that as you work the trans back keep the tail shaft over towards the drivers side and keep the trans rotated 90 degrees top towards passenger side as described above and the bell housing will get hooked on the catalytic converter flange. Take one of those large yellow ratcheting cargo straps and wrap it around the front of the cat and then around the frame , you will need to insert a block of wood on outside of frame and wrap the strap around that block too so that you have something large enough to secure your ratchet strap to. It can be difficult to manipulate these yellow ratchet straps but if you get some one to familiarize you with their function prior to making your attempt it will be helpful. Also you will need a second person to help you get the block and strap in to position. Ok, when you have finally gotten it in position gently ratchet snug then keep your eye on the cat and pipe while you ratchet and flex the pipe over towards the passenger side frame . You are going to need to move it just under one inch. Probably less than an inch because you don't want to damage the pipe or cat. Put on some thick leather gloves yo protect you hands and working the tail shaft of the trans , you can move it sideways back and forth and some pulling towards rear too until the bell housing finally comes clear of the cat flange. Be careful to keep the jack securely under trans because you are going to be quite tired when you finally get the trans out past the flange on the cat and you might grind up the bell housing area a little where it rubs but it is no big deal in the end. Lower trans and replace in the reverse order with just the smallest shove to get it beck in past the cat flange then jack it up and get the crossmember back in place for safety, and as stated earlier, slide the trans forward over the y pipe then rotate it 90 degrees back in to the upright position. The rest is straightforward. I don't mean to say by any means that it is easy. IT IS NOT EASY. You are going to be under there wrestling with that tail shaft for about an hour or more until you figure out your path forward to success. I will say that using the ratchet strap makes th reinstall a snap. Just eat a sandwich for your energy and put it back in in the reverse order of what you did to remove. Pushing seems easier thank pulling. Just be careful, pray a little as you work too, and be sure to make it safe as you will get tired out and will not be so full of energy when the trans finally comes out. It arrives like a baby to a woman in labor all day and you might feel like the obgyn when you have out on the ground . Good luck. God speed. Oh, mine is 2 wd so I do not know if this works for 4 wd.

 

I have found it is actually possible to remove and replace the manual transmission on my 1993 3.0 5 speed 2 wd Without removing the exhaust. Use a yellow ratchet strap to pull the converter just slightly towards the frame about 1 inch of movement is all that is needed. Slide the trans back and rotate top towards the passenger side about 90 degrees, then pull the tail over towards the drivers side and you can work it out of the vehicle. Need to drain the fluid and remove the crossmember. Top two bolts are easily accessed with a flex head ratchet and a short 15 mm. Just reach down behind the distributor.