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  #1  
Old 10-24-2008
D.
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Paint work.

So.. I stopped by the collision shop on the lot at work today and picked up a 1800rpm buffing machine, 4 different sets of pads, a bunch of wet-sandpaper ( 1200-1500grit ).

I'm going to knock-down the clearcoat and level it all.. My question is, how easy is it to burn the clearcoat with those buffing wheels? I've let the paint harden nfor 2 weeks hoping it will be able to take more abuse then when its softer.

I used Dupont Imron ( Hard stuff folks! ) with activators, 4:1 mixture without any tint in it at all.
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Old 10-24-2008
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its not as hard on the flat surfaces its and edge or body line its VERY easy to just hit metal. the speed and pressure you put on the machine are a big factor..
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Old 10-24-2008
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Be more careful with the wetsanding on the edges and body line and remember the areas that you had to hit hard with the paper when you are buffing and take it easier on them.
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Old 10-24-2008
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Like stone said its the edges that get you. It also depends how deep of a cut wax your using.

Side Note. D what do you use on exposed metal to seal it off before priming and paint? Anything in particular for areas that had rust before?
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Old 10-24-2008
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Originally Posted by My91Ranger View Post
Like stone said its the edges that get you. It also depends how deep of a cut wax your using.

Side Note. D what do you use on exposed metal to seal it off before priming and paint? Anything in particular for areas that had rust before?
there is quite a few chemical washes you can use to strip the surface rust.. i cant not remember the names off hand when you stop by soon i have a few in the garage i could show you..
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Old 10-24-2008
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Originally Posted by D. View Post
So.. I stopped by the collision shop on the lot at work today and picked up a 1800rpm buffing machine, 4 different sets of pads, a bunch of wet-sandpaper ( 1200-1500grit ).

I'm going to knock-down the clearcoat and level it all.. My question is, how easy is it to burn the clearcoat with those buffing wheels? I've let the paint harden nfor 2 weeks hoping it will be able to take more abuse then when its softer.

I used Dupont Imron ( Hard stuff folks! ) with activators, 4:1 mixture without any tint in it at all.
As a former detailing business owner the most common mistake I see people make is during the buffing process. They use too much pressure. Here's another tip. STRIP YOUR WAX JOB BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING. Randy Cooke fixed my truck after I hit that deer in 05. His assisants didn't strip the wax job I had done recently. So pretty much they sanded ALL of the wax deep into the paint and a year later it's now cracking and peeling. All you need is a good cleaner that removes all wax, grease, dirt and it also remove a good portion of the clear coat. That will make it easier for you. When you buff let the buffer do the work and take your time. The Napa store here locally said that with the colors they have they recomend 8 parts paint, 4 parts thinner, and 1 part hardner. $350 bucks for the paint needed to do my truck. I chose a Chrysler color Big Orange. Acrylic Enamel. The guys there have already won several best paint within this area. My guess is that your paint won't hold up too well being that it's still somewhat fresh. Any good body shop will tell you to hold off at least 3 weeks before any buffing is done.
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Old 10-24-2008
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A link that might...

Hey D. here's a link that might help you out some: www.houseofkolor.com . They have a few tech article and resourse in there that be of some use to you.
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Old 10-24-2008
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Originally Posted by knightmare1015 View Post
As a former detailing business owner the most common mistake I see people make is during the buffing process. They use too much pressure. Here's another tip. STRIP YOUR WAX JOB BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING. Randy Cooke fixed my truck after I hit that deer in 05. His assisants didn't strip the wax job I had done recently. So pretty much they sanded ALL of the wax deep into the paint and a year later it's now cracking and peeling. All you need is a good cleaner that removes all wax, grease, dirt and it also remove a good portion of the clear coat. That will make it easier for you. When you buff let the buffer do the work and take your time. The Napa store here locally said that with the colors they have they recomend 8 parts paint, 4 parts thinner, and 1 part hardner. $350 bucks for the paint needed to do my truck. I chose a Chrysler color Big Orange. Acrylic Enamel. The guys there have already won several best paint within this area. My guess is that your paint won't hold up too well being that it's still somewhat fresh. Any good body shop will tell you to hold off at least 3 weeks before any buffing is done.
So you drove semis for 9 years, went to Nascar tech and owned a detail shop...really now
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Old 10-24-2008
D.
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Originally Posted by 04blackedge View Post
So you drove semis for 9 years, went to Nascar tech and owned a detail shop...really now
Not in this thread please.
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Old 10-25-2008
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Originally Posted by D. View Post
Not in this thread please.
Thank you. That cat is starting to act like Takeda more and more each day.
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  #11  
Old 10-25-2008
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Originally Posted by 04blackedge View Post
So you drove semis for 9 years, went to Nascar tech and owned a detail shop...really now
You act more like Takeda and a 3 year old kid each day. I owned a small detailing business from 1992 to 1993 when I was in highschool. After dropping out I went back and graduated in 1996. After highschool I started driving a little bit on the side and then started doing it fulltime under a for hire license. Go away trent. And I got this in Nashville, TN after a years worth of hands on instruction and alot of testing:

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So please go away. I offered D. a link and some tips based on some past exps in my life. Besides you don't know squat about bodywork so who are you to talk about my knowledge level. Have a nice day. Next time i'll report you for harrassment. D.'s right not here please.
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  #12  
Old 10-25-2008
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Not in this thread please.
Sorry about that man. If he continues I'll report him. All you did was ask for some help and I hope I did help some. This guy questions everything about me and it is bothersome.
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  #13  
Old 10-25-2008
D.
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I found out about rounding corners and smoothing down the clear coat.. how it can wear thin really quick. It came out level on most spots though.

Pics later.
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  #14  
Old 10-27-2008
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Originally Posted by D. View Post
I found out about rounding corners and smoothing down the clear coat.. how it can wear thin really quick. It came out level on most spots though.

Pics later.
Ok kool. I hope that link I gave you helped out in some techniques and answering questions that you may have with your paint situation. I'll be logging off for a while so I'll see you guys around later. I have got business to take care of and other things to do. So I'll see you around. Best of luck my friend.
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