Rattlecan Paint Jobs, anybody try it?
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,872
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From: Jackson, New Jersey
Rattlecan Paint Jobs, anybody try it?
There is a bit of rust on the front of the hood and around doors of my Bronco, and I was thinking about taking it down, throwing on some Bondo and then using a rattle can to paint it again the color of the truck. Before I go about doing this, I was wondering if anybody has done something on a scale like this, and how did the results turn out. Though its my trail rig, I still want it to look decent, and if it turns out alright, I will probably end up doing more work to it.
-I have also been contemplating getting a spary gun and painting parts with that, but it would be more expensive and something I have no experience with as of yet.
Thanks for any input.
-I have also been contemplating getting a spary gun and painting parts with that, but it would be more expensive and something I have no experience with as of yet.
Thanks for any input.
I've used spray paint for painting body panels (on crap vehicles) before. I smashed my drivers side front fender in my old Shadow, so I got a new fender, sanded it down, primed, painted, and clear coat it.......it turned out pretty good. You couldn't really tell unless you were right up close. There wasn't as much "depth" to the paint as the other body parts, but it was better then having a different colour or no fender at all.
If you want something perfect, get an air gun, if you're just looking for an o.k paint job, use a spray can and some clear coat.
If you want something perfect, get an air gun, if you're just looking for an o.k paint job, use a spray can and some clear coat.
I spray canned my ranger bed to make it all one color. I would say it would turn out good enough for a trail rig if you used gloss and a clear coat. I might actually do the same thing when summer rolls around Gloss And Clear Coat.
Give it a try whats the worst that happens you spent a little money on some spray paint.
Give it a try whats the worst that happens you spent a little money on some spray paint.
Originally Posted by winks
There is a bit of rust on the front of the hood and around doors of my Bronco, and I was thinking about taking it down, throwing on some Bondo and then using a rattle can to paint it again the color of the truck. Before I go about doing this, I was wondering if anybody has done something on a scale like this, and how did the results turn out. Though its my trail rig, I still want it to look decent, and if it turns out alright, I will probably end up doing more work to it.
-I have also been contemplating getting a spary gun and painting parts with that, but it would be more expensive and something I have no experience with as of yet.
Thanks for any input.
-I have also been contemplating getting a spary gun and painting parts with that, but it would be more expensive and something I have no experience with as of yet.
Thanks for any input.
Macco sucks *****, i would just spend 50$ on paint cans, i painted my probe 4 times with cans and it looked decent mainly from fixing dents and bondo'ing (primer grey, primer black, gloss black, and gunmetal)
GLOSS BLACK
GUNMETAL (shows the swipes of the can)
If i had a trail rig, i think i would deff. have to go with the camo paint cans, i think it looks awesome..
Rocky
GLOSS BLACK
GUNMETAL (shows the swipes of the can)
If i had a trail rig, i think i would deff. have to go with the camo paint cans, i think it looks awesome..
Rocky
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,872
Likes: 0
From: Jackson, New Jersey
Originally Posted by crazzyearl
Do i realy need to answer? Full size bronco + wharton jeep sized trail = lots of pine striping bring that rattle can with you (Like i DO). Just a tip do the bottom foot of the body in spray on bed liner holds up better then paint and easy to re spray on.
Done it twice now, DIdn't spend a lot and didn't want it to look pretty.
My 200 dollar beater in about 99 Tough old car couldn't kill it if I tried
(1983 olds custom Cruiser with 300,000+ miles)

THe wife next to "Her" Beater!
(1989 Ranger with a 2.3 for $50)

Good Luck!
~HJ
My 200 dollar beater in about 99 Tough old car couldn't kill it if I tried
(1983 olds custom Cruiser with 300,000+ miles)
THe wife next to "Her" Beater!
(1989 Ranger with a 2.3 for $50)
Good Luck!
~HJ
It is possible to make it look good, but you need extra patience and a mindset that you are gonna do it right.
if it is just some rust that you are trying to cover, do you plan with the bondo. then you need wet sand the area of bondo and about 5-7" of the area surrounding it ( yes you will be removing some of the existing paint). you want it to be perfectly smooth so if you close your eyes and run your fingers over it you cant identify the bondo area anymore.
then you need to primethe area. I suggest using some sheets or soemthing to tape off the area.
after its primed spray a layer, let it dry and then wet sand it a bit to make sure its smooth. then repeat2 or 3 more times, wet sanding each time. after 3-4 coats wet sand a final time and bust out the clear coat. repeat the painting steps with the clear coat2-3 times. dont wet sand the last coat of clear though. after the last coat of clear dries scuff it up with a brillo pad a bit so it looks a littel hazy.
then get some buffing compound and give it a nice buff, wipe off any excess and then wash and wax the whole truck.
it's the wet sanding and the extra layersthat make the difference between professional guns and cheap paint
if it is just some rust that you are trying to cover, do you plan with the bondo. then you need wet sand the area of bondo and about 5-7" of the area surrounding it ( yes you will be removing some of the existing paint). you want it to be perfectly smooth so if you close your eyes and run your fingers over it you cant identify the bondo area anymore.
then you need to primethe area. I suggest using some sheets or soemthing to tape off the area.
after its primed spray a layer, let it dry and then wet sand it a bit to make sure its smooth. then repeat2 or 3 more times, wet sanding each time. after 3-4 coats wet sand a final time and bust out the clear coat. repeat the painting steps with the clear coat2-3 times. dont wet sand the last coat of clear though. after the last coat of clear dries scuff it up with a brillo pad a bit so it looks a littel hazy.
then get some buffing compound and give it a nice buff, wipe off any excess and then wash and wax the whole truck.
it's the wet sanding and the extra layersthat make the difference between professional guns and cheap paint
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,872
Likes: 0
From: Jackson, New Jersey

I found this one online, I wouldn't have to worry about a clear coat with this type of paint job

Thanks for the info Karpe, I'm not going to try to get it perfect. I just realized that the Bronco is going to be too high to fit into my garage in about 2 days, so I'm going to end up doing most of the work outside in the back yard...
Originally Posted by winks
Why do the bottom foot in bedliner? As of right now, I've got a bit of Herculiner left over that I could put on there, but I'd need good reason to do it first.
EDIT it is what my Doors, fender, bumper, cab, and under carage are done in
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,872
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From: Jackson, New Jersey
True, but I'm not too happy with the spray on bedliner, it seems to come off too easily. At least that's been the results I've seen with the Duplicolor spray on bedliner.
Originally Posted by graniteguy
It's very hard to do large sections and not have tiger stripes.
not only does it greatly reduce tiger stripes, but it is much quicker and spreads the paint more effectively.
it also wouldnt hurt to use a primer that is very similar to the final color. primer should always be used first anyway.
a pre-coat of the final color in flat finish will also help, assuming youll be using a semi-gloss/gloss final coat
a pre-coat of the final color in flat finish will also help, assuming youll be using a semi-gloss/gloss final coat
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