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Forced Induction & N20 Tech General discussion of forced induction and nitrous for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 10-18-2009
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notrous

okay so i have been reading as much as i can about nitrous. However it has left me with lots of misleading info or some stuff i just dont understand. can some one please break down all aspects of nitrous how it works? i have got as much info as i can of google but there is just too much stuff on google that is damn useless.
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Old 10-18-2009
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its good for track use and nothing else. movies you see on tv mislead you into thinking its sooooo cool. but really, if your not drag racing your wasting money, plus youll have to at least put forged pistons in your engine for it to handle alot of nitrous.
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Old 10-18-2009
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lol im not looking for stupid big gains i know fast and the furious is a joke. really im just looking for some fun. there is a 35 hp kit from zex called safe shot i think im gona pick up because anything more is looking for something to go wrong for me atleast. and i just noticed i spelt nitrous worng in the title
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Old 10-18-2009
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i dont know about your truck but mine has a plastic intake manifold and ive seen them explode with nitrous use.
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Old 10-18-2009
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yes plastic............for now. anyways this is the nitrous system i am looking at. Zex: Safe Shot Nitrous System From ZEX™
one more question what is a EFI-powered vehicle
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Old 10-18-2009
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electronic fuel injected.
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Old 10-18-2009
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Originally Posted by fraser19 View Post
yes plastic............for now. anyways this is the nitrous system i am looking at. Zex: Safe Shot Nitrous System From ZEX™
one more question what is a EFI-powered vehicle
im really not trying to be an ***. but if you dont even know what EFI is then you need to look into other things than nitrous. a better thing to do would be headers, tuners, air intake, cams. you need to know your stuff before you play with nitrous. its an easy fast way to destroy the inside of your engine.

theres a reason no one on here uses it
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Old 10-18-2009
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Originally Posted by OVERtheEDGE View Post
im really not trying to be an ***. but if you dont even know what EFI is then you need to look into other things than nitrous. a better thing to do would be headers, tuners, air intake, cams. you need to know your stuff before you play with nitrous. its an easy fast way to destroy the inside of your engine.
yeah i know im on top of my game i still got lots of warenty left. so this next 2 years is my time too learn every thing there is too learn. i do not ever plan on useing a product i do not understand. i will not risk my truck do to lack of info. that is why i am on forums like this so i may learn all there is too learn
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Old 10-18-2009
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are you planing on spraying while you still on warranty because i highly doubt they will cover an engine that blew up because of nitrous.
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Old 10-18-2009
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Originally Posted by Spc_Austin View Post
are you planing on spraying while you still on warranty because i highly doubt they will cover an engine that blew up because of nitrous.
no i do not plan on spraying while i am under warenty. just learning about it. my friend is looking too buy one so i think im going too do alot my learning from that
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Old 10-18-2009
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o ok gotcha :)
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Old 10-18-2009
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well in that case go over to therangerstation.com and look in their tech library, you will find their info about nitrous. very useful

Nitrous Oxide & How It Works

How To Setup Nitrous Oxide On A Daily Driver

that should tell you what you wanna know
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Old 10-19-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVERtheEDGE View Post
im really not trying to be an ***. but if you dont even know what EFI is then you need to look into other things than nitrous. a better thing to do would be headers, tuners, air intake, cams. you need to know your stuff before you play with nitrous. its an easy fast way to destroy the inside of your engine.

theres a reason no one on here uses it

Accept for me.
I spray my 3.0 with a 60 HP. shot whenever I want to stomp on a ricer.
This is my daily driver with 88,000 miles on it.
So have no fear it can be done.But like it's been said if you don't know alot about tuning on EFI then you will want to be very careful.Definitely do your research before you try it.
The thing about Nitrous on a non forged motor is by the time you here detonation it's too late for your pistons.

Your looking at over a $1000 to do a Nitrous system properly with Tuner,N2O System,N2O Controller,Plugs ect...ect...

If your only looking at a 35 HP. shot you should probably just get Pulleys,Roller Rockers and Headers to start until your confident in your Nitrous installation/tuning skills.

Good Luck,
Tony

Last edited by N20-3.0; 10-19-2009 at 04:03 AM.
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Old 10-19-2009
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Originally Posted by N20-3.0 View Post
Accept for me.
I spray my 3.0 with a 60 HP. shot whenever I want to stomp on a ricer.
This is my daily driver with 88,000 miles on it.
So have no fear it can be done.But like it's been said if you don't know alot about tuning on EFI then you will want to be very careful.Definitely do your research before you try it.
The thing about Nitrous on a non forged motor is by the time you here detonation it's too late for your pistons.

Your looking at over a $1000 to do a Nitrous system properly with Tuner,N2O System,N2O Controller,Plugs ect...ect...

If your only looking at a 35 HP. shot you should probably just get Pulleys,Roller Rockers and Headers to start until your confident in your Nitrous installation/tuning skills.

Good Luck,
Tony
im not looking for JUST 35 hp if i was i would be very happy with a tuner header and pullys. I plan on haveing headers pullys CIA and nitrous all the goodies. My thing is i dont know nitrous i like the look of the safe shot because i dont know the dangers of nitrous very well.....yet. but i have 2 more years before my warenty is up so lots of time to learn. I figure i should learn enough with in the next 2 years too be able to put that 50-60 shot in my truck without mass failure.
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Old 10-19-2009
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They call it safe because it's a "dry" shot. Meaning there is no fuel being injected. Fuel is what burns. And this is whats is burning when you hear about an explosion. No fuel in the intake = no explosion.


Now.. the whole reason there are backfires is because of improperly designed nitrous kits. That gets deep real quick...


IMO the best way to go is to have a tune that adds fuel via the stock fuel system and **ramp** a 50-60hp dry shot. FJO makes a very nice and economical controller for this.

Instant on systems are bad for traction and H-A-R-D on drivetrain parts. I'd personally suggest a ramping controller.

Rich
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Old 10-19-2009
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Suggestion...

Frasier, get a Hayabusa to fill your need for speed, and keep the truck a truck.
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Old 10-19-2009
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Really dont see a need for it on a daily driven ranger but if you do decide to go threw with it make sure you get the truck dyno tuned on the spray. The plastic intake will handle 60hp easily, so no need to upgrade there. The biggest choice is a wet or dry shot so do your research and decide which will be better suited for your application.
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Old 10-19-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl View Post
They call it safe because it's a "dry" shot. Meaning there is no fuel being injected. Fuel is what burns. And this is whats is burning when you hear about an explosion. No fuel in the intake = no explosion.

Now..the whole reason there are backfires is because of improperly designed nitrous kits.

Rich
Rich, You are very knowledgeable but on this one I gotta say......Not entirely true.

You can blow the intake off just as easy with a dry shot.
The backfire starts in the combustion chamber where Nitrous and fuel mix with spark.Most commonly it starts with a improper tune or early activation of the system[not enough RPM's].When this happens you can blow your intake off, bend a valve, connecting rod or more with a wet or dry kit.

On a small shot like we are talking about the amount of fuel being injected into the intake is minimal and when it gets combined with 950+ psi of Nitrous pressure at the Fogger Nozzle it gets atomized very well.

Also remember that your at WOT when spraying.So the fuel/nitrous mix is not going to settle and run down the intake.If you have fuel just puddling up in your intake your truck will not run[too rich].

I'm not saying a wet kit is the best way it's just how I like to do it everybody has an opinion.
But in my truck I found it better to add fuel with the kit instead of the injectors.This way I can run my nitrous tune all the time without adding extra fuel with the injectors when it's not needed.
My bottle is always in my truck and ready to go.
On my Cobra I shoot a 75 HP. wet shot through the blower with no problems at all.

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Tony

Last edited by N20-3.0; 10-19-2009 at 02:54 PM.
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  #19  
Old 10-19-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl View Post
They call it safe because it's a "dry" shot. Meaning there is no fuel being injected. Fuel is what burns. And this is whats is burning when you hear about an explosion. No fuel in the intake = no explosion.


Now.. the whole reason there are backfires is because of improperly designed nitrous kits. That gets deep real quick...


IMO the best way to go is to have a tune that adds fuel via the stock fuel system and **ramp** a 50-60hp dry shot. FJO makes a very nice and economical controller for this.

Instant on systems are bad for traction and H-A-R-D on drivetrain parts. I'd personally suggest a ramping controller.

Rich

http://www.fjoracing.com/products/2stageminicontroller/ also im not sure what the "ramp" you are talking about it. too much 5 am learning for me
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