Hey guys Im thinking about supercharging but Im trying to spread out the costs so I have 2 questions...

1. If I install the RP Caster kit and don't re tune will I hurt anything or get much less power than I could? I ask because eventually I will put a bigger MAF and 30lb injectors and then I will re tune.

2. Any point in intercooling at only 5 psi? I could intercool when I do the MAF/injectors but would rather save the dough if it wont increase perfomance or if its not needed. I've talked to Ron (kit maker) and he doesn't use one but if its a good thing to do then I would. I have talked to a shop who say they could fab one for me for about $600. Doing the intercooler my self is way beyond me so I would have to go 3rd party.

Thanks!

 

RP Casters kit is prolly one of the best out there. Iv never had one but Im definitly planning on it soon as I save up a few grand.
Intercooling will help no matter what. Even if your not running a supercharger lol. What Id do is instead of spending $600 for an intercooler, Id buy a water/methanol injection kit. With a water/meth kit, you can run a few more psi safely because it lowers combustion temps, sorta like Nitrous.
As for tuning, Id wait til you buy everything then install it all and tune it. If you dont, youll run lean and can possibly burn up a cylinder. Besides, without a tune, youll only gain 20 horses or so. With a tuner, youll gain 100

 

^^^^ I love you because you have successfully replaced me as the guy who posts info in every thread even if he has zero real world knowledge of the subject. Thanks :)

Anyway, there are some members here that has run RPCaster kits and can give you some info on intercoolers. As far as tuning you will HAVE to have the truck tuned for the supercharged if you want to run it safely and see real gains.

 

Lol your mostly right. I take what Iv learned off manufacturers websites and try to explain it in real terms

 

Cool thanks for the info. Any recomendations for where to get a water/meth kit? Im also having trouble finding the 30lb injectors and MAF. I would apprciate any nudges in the right direction.

 

Im thinking an 80mm MAF...

 

Snow Performance or AEM

 

Those look like solid Water/Meth kits, the snow performance ones look pretty in depth. What about the 80mm MAF and 30lb injectors, I didnt see any on those sites.

Also is this worth the extra money?
http://srx.main.ebayrtm.com/clk?RtmC...176486&pi=5197

its $699

 

You can get a used one and rebuild it yourself for a lot cheaper. I got mine for $66 lol. You can get one off eBay for $100 to $200 and a good rebuild kit is under $100 I think.
Injectors would definitly be a plus although I cant say what size youd need. Ask Ron lol.
And Iv never had experience with a biggger MAF

 

i would intercool over water meth..intercooling is basically like spraying water meth all the time, and will eventually be cheaper and more reliable

 

Theyre both reliable if installed right. Methanol is cheap as going to WalMart and buying some windshield washer fluid or Heet

 

ya..but water meth will slowly strip your coating on your supercharger rotors..and if you dont have a low level light you could run out of it and not know it and harm your engine. thats just why i would go with intercooling. my 2 cents

 

Has anyone had this problem? I just haven't herd of it before.

 

It's not as common to use water/meth on a super charger app shearly because if the lack of heat. It's usually ran on turbo set ups, and generally for bigger builds. With a turbo more fuel is more heat, more heat is more more air moving, not all ways more psi, but kinda falls in line with it. When turbos get really hot they tend to make slightly less power, so the water meth is sprayed and drops the egt temps down and keeps the turbine spinng towards space.

Personally on the build in a ranger water meth is almost pointless. The eaton m90 your gonna gonna be strapping down is gonna be plenty and really isn't going to get that hot. Intercooling is kind of a wash too, it will help yes but it may only be 7-10hp. And with the cooler being plumbed and propper waste gates and ect it's almost not worth it. Unless your goal is absolute power.

I would start with the charger, drop to a smaller pully and go from there. Just remember that the sohc really doesn't like more than 6psi on it max.

 

Intercooling on a non boosted motor? You would only hurt performance of a vehicle due to the loss of air speed and density blowing through an intercooler. That is why you see these tards not make alot of power on cars with small turbos or superchargers but F&F size Intercoolers all in the name of looking like Dom.

Unless you plan on more than 6lbs of boost, do not worry about intercooling. Besides, with an M90 the intercooler would sit directly under the blower and above the manifold it I am not mistaken. I would not waste the money on a water/meth kit unless you are drag racing. It is not a replacement for an intercooler. It is more a system for short bursts that are done when dragging. Make sure you have enough fuel from the start or else just put a bullet through your block and be done with it. TUNE TUNE TUNE! Tune right from the beginning or revert to last statement. You want enough fuel injector and pump to run about 85% duty cycle. You do not want to go to big or small.

 

Uh, the air gets hot due to Boyle's gas law, and lack of efficiency with the charger (Turbo or super).

To make it safe and consistent, it should be intercooled. Of course you can get away with lower boost levels without it, but you're leaving power on the table, along with safety.

As the guy above said, meth isn't a replacement for an intercooler.

 

Wow...all I can say.

1. Yes, meth will strip your rotors. I have an extremely rare Autorotor 2.6L compressor that suffers from this. Not a cheap fix for it either!

2. Long run intercooling is much better choice to spray. And safer.

3. What is plan for the intercooler? From reading this, it sounds almost as though the plan is to put an air/air before the compressor. If so, you should not plan even the base RP caster kit until you learn a whole lot more. If I was reading into it to much and you know it has to be between the compressor and the engine, what is the plan? Fabricate an insert block between the compressor and manifold? Hood clearance considered with that? Heck, at that point, you are scraping majority of the RP caster parts, so why not start from scratch on your own? I could be mistaken and maybe fab shops are really hungry, but I would be shocked to see this done for $600.