Just got my ranger today...2002 4.0L. Which intake do yall recommend for gettin that power up?

 

exactly what you have. a factory intake with an OEM filter

 

i like my aem

 

Just a K&N drop in. Alot of guys say they have gona from a K&N drop in (about $38) to a $300 intake and really not noticed any difference at all.

 

Airbox mod. I cut the front of my airbox up to allow more airflow, noticed a little driving it, but really saw my numbers jump at the track.

 

Stay with the OEM intake and airbox, with the OEM paper filter. This setup is a true CAI. The only thing the K&N will pass more than the OEM is dirt and oil.

 

one thing i can agree with you on.


i will never run an open filter again, it caused me to have to get a new engine and have tons of problems.

it also was causing me to get horrible gas mileage.

 

If you still want an intake get something that won't leave the filter unshielded. So look at Volant or S&B. The stock intake is a cold air but it could still use some improvements.

 

I noticed my MPG improvewith the K&N.

 

I've got a Volant and love it. I also noticed MPG improvement with it, it sounds cool too at low rpm's. Fully enclosed like the factory box, but improved flow with a cone style filter.

 

also if u plan on offroading any just keep it stock it will keep alot of mud and such out and u really wont notice that much as far as gains other than sound

 

I have a K&N and I really like it but where I live its pretty dry so I dont worry to much about getting mud and sh*t in it I noticed some gains and I do really like how it sounds

 

VOLANT fo sho. its boxed so no worries on hydrolock

 

I just replaced my dirty OEM filter with the K&N drop in filter see what happens I may go back to the regular depending on how it looks at my next oil change.

 

i have to say. just going to the k&n drop in, from the stock filter, i noticed a little bit better response from the engine.

 

Here is a very interesting post from AllanD, over on TRS:

"I love the guys that want "more filter area" from say... a "cone" filter, yes they have more area, but the original 2.9 filter element was the same size as the filter in the 225hp 5.0HO Mustangs.

Now, if that filter flowed enough air to feed a 5.0HO engine in what way was it "inadequate" to feed a 140hp 2.9 engine?

The same filter element size is used on the 4.0 trucks up to 1994.
In what way is a filter that'll feed a 160hp 4.0 inadequate to feed a 2.9?

I've seen people use the stock airbox (modified to flow in reverse)
with the VAM air meter of a 2.3Turbo.
I saw one guy with that setup do a dyno run that showed 270hp.
Ona STOCK 2.3/2.9/4.0 paper element.

The post above from 89REDRANGER has me near boiling point,
HE REMOVED the duct that fed air to the filter box and "likes"
his setup without it?

there's a word for that... let me see can I remember it?
Oh yeah... 89REDRANGER, Here's your sign!

that's as tactful as I'm willing to be on this topic.

ADDITIONALLY Removing the preheater stove from the exhaust manifold does NOTHING because it's controlled by a thermostat that cuts off the vacuum to the vacum pot that controls it, so it only actually does anything when the engine is cold and it speeds warmup I.E. (for the innumerable swarms of stupid people out there) it does nothing but HELP and does so by speeding engine warmup from a cold start.

I have a 4.0 with headers and yes, I installed my choke stove tube.

Someone I know created an airbox "spacer" by cutting the rim off the lid and base of an airbox the purpose of this was to allow him to "Stack" two air filters on top of each other, his primary purpose was to protect his turbocharger (a somewhat custom T3/4 hybred), but he realized that it would also serve as a demonstration platform.

So he BOUGHT (specific to his purpose) a K&N filter and installed it before the paper element.... to demonstrate how much crap the K&N DID NOT catch.
this is demonstrated by just how quickly the paper element, "protected"
by the K&N becomes filthy.


Oh, BTW, the reason my brother the Ford Senior Master Diesel
Tech LOVES K&N filter?
Because when he finds one in a truck it's an instant "Warrantee denied" which means he gets paid at a higher rate for the repair.
The difference is several dollars an hour.

My brother believes that every dollar spent on a K&N for a Ford with a diesel makes some lucky technician $2-$3.

AD"
__________________

 

I'm a big fan of aftermarket intake kits. (have one on my Ranger) But only because of high rpm power increases. If your not interested in 5000+ rpms.. don't waste your money.

You won't see a MPG increase as compaired to a properly working OEM setup.
You will *likely* increase the amount of grit entering the intake.
You very well might have the warrenty denied.
And your pretty much waisting money for a daily driver.

Here is my web page for the K&N kit.

 

My co-worker got his 03' Cobra mustang dynod before and after putting on a 57 series K&N intake kit.......He got a whole 3 HP out of it haha! what a waste of 200$. Ive got a aFe Cold air intake on my 2.5L ranger, works great.

 

So Rich, what was your "calculated" power increase, and how much of your driving time do you spend above 5K RPMs?

 

bob you have some weird fascination with AllenD huh? everything you post has his name in it.

 

That and anything that says intake or air filter in the title.

 

No, not at all! I just put a quote of his regarding mods in my sig.

 

Velocity Stacks FTW.

But anyway what about relocating the battery and creating a dual set-up with two filters. You can buy individual intake peices online for such applications. Maybe you could modify a stock filter box to fit on the left side and insulate the pipes to have a could air intake. But I wonder if relocating the MAF sensor closer to the throttle body will work right.

 

The OEM setup is designed to flow way more air than the engine will pull, so it's the engine limiting the airflow, NOT the intake. The diameter of the OEM intake was chosen to keep the proper air velocity across the MAF sensor so it can accurately measure the airflow. Changes like you are suggesting, along with the aftermarket intakes will decrease the air velocity, causing the MAF sensor to measure less air than is actually flowing, usually throwing "lean" codes.

 

In terms of the high RPM area.. I fully agree with ya, I wont make any opinions on the site.. but I can say, stock vs. aftermarket, my K&N DID improve the mid-high RPM range, I think that may have been the only small limitation of the stock.. there have been many time I have debated going back to stock too. I may modify the stock box to wrap around my K&N somewhat, extend the inside a bit but remove the "snorkel" that was there and use some PVC piping to open it up a tad.. giving it some protection, along with keeping the power where its at.