Ticking/ clicking sound under hood
Ok guys, here is the scoop. My truck has been making this ticking/ clicking sound for the past 6-9 months. Its really agrivating and annoying. Heres the stats I can give you. It ticks/ clicks while it sits in park but very quietly. When i drive it the harder i pusher the gas the louder the ticking/ clicking gets. Now if i punch the gas and the rpms shoot up It isn't there. It's on the driver side of the block, it's not the fan. I checked the headers for leaks of any holes in the exhaust, didnt find nothing. Spark plugs are about 12,000 miles old. Any GOOD iedas would be helpful. It's just sooo damn annoying i HATE DRIVING MY TRUCK ANYMORE!
1996 For Ranger
4.0 Efi
4x4
176,000 miles
1996 For Ranger
4.0 Efi
4x4
176,000 miles
not really.....shouldn't take but a day to swap them out himself....remove the valve covers, remove rockers, slide pushrods out, drop new in, and reinstall parts...hardest part would be getting to the valve covers
Originally Posted by zabeard
i vote put some engine restore in it as well.
change the oil while you are at it.
hope for the best. If Maurice is right you are in for some repair bills.
change the oil while you are at it.
hope for the best. If Maurice is right you are in for some repair bills.
Been adding engine restore 3 oil changes ago.................
this is just friggin great
could be spark. Any chance a plug wire is sitting on the exhaust manifold and got burned through? Also could be a spark plug that got cross threaded and is not all the way in. Or a loose plug wire.
If it dissappears at higher rpms I am leaning to an exhaust leak though. It wouldn't hurt to torque down the exhaust manifold bolts just in case. The extra heat at higher rpms could cause enough heat to expand and seal the leak.
Just some ideas. Good luck with it.
If it dissappears at higher rpms I am leaning to an exhaust leak though. It wouldn't hurt to torque down the exhaust manifold bolts just in case. The extra heat at higher rpms could cause enough heat to expand and seal the leak.
Just some ideas. Good luck with it.
Originally Posted by graniteguy
could be spark. Any chance a plug wire is sitting on the exhaust manifold and got burned through? Also could be a spark plug that got cross threaded and is not all the way in. Or a loose plug wire.
If it dissappears at higher rpms I am leaning to an exhaust leak though. It wouldn't hurt to torque down the exhaust manifold bolts just in case. The extra heat at higher rpms could cause enough heat to expand and seal the leak.
Just some ideas. Good luck with it.
If it dissappears at higher rpms I am leaning to an exhaust leak though. It wouldn't hurt to torque down the exhaust manifold bolts just in case. The extra heat at higher rpms could cause enough heat to expand and seal the leak.
Just some ideas. Good luck with it.
I'll triple check the plugs and plug wires. I thought it would be an exhaust leak as well, it just does it under load and when i give it gas.
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
something......i just want something that i can beat around in.....something to help me save....
like always im interested.......I need a new and better job first.........
its here......you get your new job and she is yours.....$9250 + a few for delivery.......drive it up one day and fly home from Baltimore.....and that includes the extended radius arms and the Superunner steering!
Originally Posted by fletch12518
like always im interested.......I need a new and better job first......... 

A easy & cheap way to rule out a few things..
fuel injectors. Unplug one at a time and run the motor. This will throw a CEL but you can clear it with a scanner or battery dis-connect. Just unplug one and start the motor. re-connect and dis-connect another one.
FEAD. Take the belt off and run the motor for just a few moments to see if it's one of the accessories.
If those don't pan out.. *when* it makes the noise is a good clue. Cold oil vs hot oil, no load vs higher loads. Not speeds mind you.. load. Idle and free reving are low loads. Heavy accelerating and power braking are high loads.
Rich
fuel injectors. Unplug one at a time and run the motor. This will throw a CEL but you can clear it with a scanner or battery dis-connect. Just unplug one and start the motor. re-connect and dis-connect another one.
FEAD. Take the belt off and run the motor for just a few moments to see if it's one of the accessories.
If those don't pan out.. *when* it makes the noise is a good clue. Cold oil vs hot oil, no load vs higher loads. Not speeds mind you.. load. Idle and free reving are low loads. Heavy accelerating and power braking are high loads.
Rich
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
its here......you get your new job and she is yours.....$9250 + a few for delivery.......drive it up one day and fly home from Baltimore.....and that includes the extended radius arms and the Superunner steering!
on topic, it sounds like one of the few things listed above, mine makes a ticking sound, but its just a lifter or something, who knows.
Edit, get one of these if you really want to pin point where its coming from.
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=29296
harbor freight might have one, idk i just did a search on google for "automotive stethoscope"
My 93 Dodge has the same ticking sound as described.Gets louder/more frequent under load.A piece of the exhaust manifold gasket about a 1/2 inch long is missing along the bottom flange.Impossible to see from any angle. At times it sounds just like lifter tap.
It is an exhaust leak riight at the first flange from the header.........the bolts are super rusted and I dont think I can tighten them and bring the flange back togather (Though I will try today) I thought about heating them up and TRYING TO take them aout and replacing them with new bolts................Any others ideas would be great.........
If you're going to replace them you might as well change the gasket.Invest in a pair of welding gloves , warm up the engine , then try to take them out.Chances are you will probably break one or two.
A must have
Sears item #00952166000 Mfr. model #52166
A must have
Sears item #00952166000 Mfr. model #52166
Last edited by OTRtech; Aug 16, 2007 at 05:39 AM.




