Hello, helping my dad out with his kind of new to him Ranger. He sold it 12 years ago and just bought it back. I was wondering if this truck was a rare truck, as I haven't seen exactly like it before. Here is how his truck is equipped: extended cab XLT, 4.0 four wheel drive, 5 speed manual with a manual transfer case(twin stick), warn lock out hubs, 31 inch tires from factory(265/75/15), 3.73 LS rear end, bucket seats with power bolsters, cruise control, tilt wheel, sliding rear window, no power windows, locks or a/c. Is there anything that sticks out to anybody or is this a pretty standard truck, like I said, I have not seen a single twin stick from this year or a truck equipped like this in my area. Hope to hear back from some more knowledgeable members. Thanks.

 

Outside of the manual transfer case I don't think it was rare
No power group(windows and doors), and no AC is odd for an XLT, I think

The manual transfer case was an option, but most buyers wanted "shift on the fly" as that was the "modern thing", and cheaper, lol
Can't say if Ford used Warn Hubs as factory manual hubs, but it was the common brand then so they may or may not be factory, but they are better to have
Fords "auto hubs" would work with manual transfer case

Most 4.0l 4x4s came with L/S rear axles, and 3.73 was standard

6-way power seat was an option, power lumbar and sides were standard I think

Tires were largest offered that year for XLT, but were offered so are factory size option

1995 was also the first year for the new EEC-V 104-wire engine computer, OBD2, also electronic speedometer
OBD2 readers had trouble with the first year Ranger computer, just FYI

 

Thanks, that was the type of information that I was looking for. Was checking over the truck again today, it is actually a 1996 manufactured in 09/95 so hopefully I am alright on the computer. Also it seems as if when it is locked into four wheel drive all four tires spin as opposed to only one in the front, I could be wrong though. Was that something ford did in '96?

Truck has received a tune up since regaining ownership, new motorcraft plugs, fuel filter, transmission fluid change, oil, and clean the k+n air filter and MAF. Gave it the zip tie throttle mod while detailing the interior, made a huge difference and took three zip ties. Also stuck a new set of cooper AT3 tires on it. Parts are on order to replace the radiator as I found it cracked on the tank and was weeping.

The truck runs and drives great, although it has a P0171 and P0174 that wont go away. I have been reading up about the intake plenum/manifold gaskets and hope that is not the issue, havent had time to spray it with carb cleaner to find out. Checked briefly for vacuum leaks in the tubes, thats how I found the radiator cracked.. Is there anything else to look at on these trucks for those codes?

 

Front will have an open differential but open can still spin both wheels, what open also does is to give ALL the power to easiest wheel to spin over time, so if you punch it to spin the wheels all 4 should break traction.
In the rear, with L/S, if one wheel started to spin faster than the other then L/S would split more power to other wheel/axle
On the front, with OPEN, if one wheel started spinning faster than the other, it would start get all the power, but it is not instant.

"Outside corner" principle in axles.
When you go around a corner the wheel on the outside has farther to travel so MUST spin faster than inside wheel, thats all an OPEN differential does, it transfers all power to the "outside" wheel so inside wheel can spin slower.

Ford and Chevy L/S uses clutches and a friction modifier so clutches can "slip" when going around a corner, outside wheel still needs to turn faster and slipping clutch discs allow that to happen but just a bit, if outside wheel tries to spin too much faster then clutches lock it down to same speed as "inside wheel" which is, in essence, transferring power by limiting spin on outside axle


Easy test for vacuum leak
have engine warmed up to operating temp and idling, about 650RPM on manual trans
Unplug the IAC Valves 2 wire connector, IAC Valve will close all the way
RPMs should drop to 500 or engine may even stall, either is GOOD
If RPMs stay up then you DO have a vacuum leak, or someone messed with "anti-diesel screw" thinking it was an idle screw, fuel injection = no idle screw

If RPMs drop or engine stalls, no vacuum leak, then check fuel pressure, 30-40psi is expected, low fuel pressure will cause lean codes
Also check air plenum from MAF sensor to intake, any air leaks there are PORTED vacuum leaks, hard to test for but will cause Lean codes