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I replaced my cracked cylinder head with a new cylinder head and am proceeding to lubricate the head appropriately before full spark start.
I unplugged fuel injectors and distributor, (I think) as well as pressure sensor and ignition module (pressure sensor and ignition module disconnected because it’s my first time and I’m trying to play it safe and do as little damage as I can, not knowing truly what’s what). I also removed all 8 spark plugs.
When I went to turn the key, dash lights come on but full turn and nothing happens. Sounds to me like everything is engaging as it should...
Using a screw driver to connect solenoid to positive battery cable works perfect, engine winds right up.
solenoid is new, starter is brand new, ignition switch is new, battery is new.
The truck has some unpleasant wire splicing in two places, one under the hood on the right side looking and the other under driver side dash steaming from the ignition switch. Could it simply be these wires causing the no start issue or is there anything else I’m overlooking that could be an easier fix? The no start isn’t associated with the fact that I removed the spark plugs is it?
[Turn key—click—battery/check engine/brake light all come on—rear anti lock comes on—click and then anti lock goes off]
Thanks for any help! Frayed negative cable. New starter, some gunk still on negative battery cable attached to starter. Should I replace the ignition key thing? Not sure if this is stock with the truck or something done by the previous owner. What is this box and red button?... Wiring under drivers dash that connects with ignition switch. Am I missing some fuses? Does this need to be plugged into something? These are the wires under the hood. Again the wires under hood. Grounding wire near negative battery cable. I unplugged these to prevent spark...I think...first time doing all this. Again, trying to prevent spark so I can oil new cylinder head. And again, although I think this might have nothing to do with it. Missing any fuses? New ignition switch. New solenoid. Another angle of the negative battery cable.
From pictures it looks like a 1989-1994 2.3l Ranger
In 2nd to last picture is the Starter Relay, often "wrongly" called the starter solenoid
The RED connector on the smaller post is what activates that relay and in turn activates the starter motor
Remove that RED connector and touch 12volt jumper wire to the small post, relay should "click" and starter motor should activate, that tests if relay is working
Manual or automatic?
It matters because they use different Switches to prevent starting "in gear"
When key is turned to START, 12v is sent from ignition switch, to Safety switch, and then to Starter Relay(RED wire)
For manual trans, safety switch is a clutch pedal switch, under the dash on the clutch pedal push rod
Clutch pedal must be down all the way to close this switch to pass the 12v on to the starter relay
For automatic, safety switch is on drivers side of transmission, above shift rod, transmission must be in Park or Neutral to pass the 12v on to starter relay
If shift cable is loose then switch may not pass the 12v in Park, try Neutral
Thanks for the help!
It's a 1989 Ranger and it is Manual.
So is there a chance that the clutch pedal needs to be bled in order to stiffen the clutch pedal and push rod and then in turn will get a better chance at activating the safety switch?
I just replaced the Starter Relay and the Starter two days ago just for peace of mind, but I will try the 12volt jumper wire just to be sure.
Maybe something to do with the safety switch if it is not engaging...with or without clutch in I am able to put the truck into any gear. That shouldn't be the case right? It has been a few years since my last Manual vehicle ha. I feel like it should stick in first if I push in the clutch and put it into first even with the vehicle off?
Thanks for all your help
The Clutch switch is mechanical, so doesn't matter if clutch actually works, as long as pedal can be pushed down to the floor the switch is 'pinched' between pedal arm and Master cylinder and closes
The two wires at the lower end in above picture, pink, are the two wires that need to be connected inside the switch to pass the 12volts to starter relay
They can be pink, pink/white or red/blue
PROBLEM SOLVED:
RonD your advice to take a look at the clutch safety switch ended up leading me down the right path. I took a look at a video on youtube in regards to splicing the safety switch wires and in the comments I noticed someone mention taking a look at the Ignition switch and trying to slide it as far toward as possible once the two steering wheel bolts holding it are loosened. I tried this and it solved my problem. I guess the key was unable to push the ignition switch all the way into full position in order to allow the engine to turn over. I have to admit, the starter/starter relay/or ignition switch may have been my initial problem and then when I re attached the ignition switch to the steering column that may have been when it was not set correctly. Just glad to have found and fixed the problem and to have replaced a few other old parts in the process. Thanks for all your help RonD
PROBLEM SOLVED:
Turns out the ignition switch needed to be pulled toward the steering wheel. Loosen the two bolts holding it down, pull toward wheel and then tighten. The key was not fully pushing the switch into the position needed to start the vehicle. Simple fix (palm to face). However, the starter/starter relay/or ignition switch may have been the initial issue but when I re-attached the ignition switch it was not in the perfect position. I will post a link to the video I watch in reference to RonD advice about the starter switch. In the comments to this video I was able to gain more information about other potential problems.
Happy to have the problem fixed and a few new parts will benefit me down the line I'm sure.
Thanks for the help RonD!
2011Supercab - I'll respond in a bit, have to run and eat a late lunch early dinner!
ENGINE START PROBLEM SOLVED
