Hey all, so my 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 was doing just fine (other than no heat), while parked at a store I put it in reverse to back out and it jumped and the Check Engine light came on. Immediately I knew something wasn’t right as it was rough idle and 1st gl gear, but seemed ok once out of 1st. (It’s automatic).
I got home and plugged in my OBD and TEN CODES came up!! In order : P0176, P1747, P0743, P0750, P0755, P0760, P1451, P0135, P041, P0155. Sorry, I know that’s a lot! But my main question is , could just 1 or 2 of these cause the others? I’m not sure where to begin. Do I replace the P0176 sensor first? I just don’t want to do the wrong thing first only to later find out if I’d done something else first it could’ve removed several of the codes itself, if that makes sense.
the truck runs but very sluggish like it wants to stall in 1st. Once into higher gears it’s better but definitely not 100%.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
Mike

 

Almost all of those codes are "Circuit" related meaning a wiring issue, I'd check and see if a wiring harness came unplugged.

 

Thanks, doing that now!

 

Check fuse 13 in engine bay fuse box, 15amp

It powers O2 heaters and transmission solenoids

If new fuse blows then check O2 sensor wires, they are all near HOT exhaust pipes, if one melts it can short and blow that fuse, causing all the codes

 

I just checked and the 15am fuse (#13 ) is blown. Of course I have everything except another 15amp fuse at the moment! But at least it’s a start! Thanks! I’ll check the wires,if melted, in the daytime tomorrow I guess.
thanks!

 

If you have a Volt meter, test fuse 15 fuse holder, with key on, one side will have 12volts, that's the power side of fuse, the OTHER side is the LOAD side, the one that can be shorted to ground

Key Off, Set volt meter to OHMs
Test OTHER side to battery negative, if 0ohms comes up you have a short to ground on one of the wires which is why the fuse blew, or under 5ohms
Expected is 30 to 80ohms, that's what a solenoid reads, but with key off ohms may be higher which also means no short to ground

 

So yeah, the 15 amp fuse pops as soon as it’s replaced…
I checked and it’s showing around 12.43 volts, I tried to check Ohms and it looked to say 0.00, but I need to make sure I’m texting it correctly. ( I don’t know much of anything about this stuff, kinda learning on the go).
*I decided to replace my plugs and wire while in there and it seems as if I have a bad cylinder now, even though there was no problem before changing the plugs?
This is my only vehicle and I feel things are just getting worse the more I try to repair…

 

New spark plugs or wires are not "tested" so you could have a bad spark plug or wire

Also the coil pack wiring is a bit odd
3 4
2 6
1 5
front
or
1 2 3
5 6 4
front

The 5 6 4 side often gets miswired

The coil pack only has 3 coils inside, spark plugs are wired in PAIRS, 3/4, 2/6 and 1/5 are the Pairs
2/6 are always in the center
1/5 and 3/4 are at the ends