This all started a few months back when i picked up a pretty clean 92 ranger with a broken timing belt. So i went to replacing all gaskets seals etc even changed both sets of plugs and wires since i had the intake off to replace the v/c gasket. After that, it had a misfire and i found the coil wasn't putting out to #3 so i decided i'd replace the coil. Next day i started it and it was working fine. I thought that was wierd but i replaced the coil anyway and it's been fine the last few months. I've noticed this whole time the tach reads half. I havent had it long and the old owner knows nothing about cars so idk how long it's been that way. At idle it's about 500rpm and screaming is about 2200. The CEL has been on the whole time and I've just ignored it knowing it was a 114 code.
Things have changed and I may have to sell the truck so Today, I replaced the IAT sensor and reset the code and was like cool light is out but after about 30 secs the light came back on. I checked codes this time to have 223. The code was hard to decifer but it is related to ignition system. I figured well the coil i didnt change is original i'll replace it too. Now i've got a 223 and 224. At this point i'm getting to The truck does run a little rough at idle but smooths out off idle and runs fine, seems sluggish but everyone says these are slow anyway. I've done some research and people mention swapping DIS units with a known good one to see if it went away and their concerns at times also mention the tach reading half or not reading at all. I'm wanting to get some expert advice on how to test this system before throwing more parts at it.

 

In a 1992 Ranger 2.3l you will have the ICM(ignition control module), located on the front of the lower intake facing radiator, coils plug into it.

These ICMs are known failure points for 1989-1994 2.3l distributorless engine

Tach wire also comes from ICM

code 223 means computer is not getting good pulse from ICM, this pulse is used to time fuel injectors
224, well ICM runs the coils so...............

Many autoparts stores can test these ICMs

And many times it is a wiring issue or ground issue, so when removing ICM inspect the wiring.
2 of the bolts holding it to intake are the Grounds for the ICM

When you did the working on the engine the 24 year old wiring for the ICM would be hard and brittle, could simply have frayed at the connectors or started to break

 

That's what I was thinking. I'll inspect the wiring and grounds tomorrow. It's the grey box with 2 connectors. Says motorcraft dis on it

 

Yes, that is the one, it runs the spark system, but does get spark advance/retard suggestions from the computer

In 1995 Ford started using the bigger computer(EEC-V, OBD2) and that module was IN the new computer and had almost no problems after that

 

I managed to come across this last night

Part 1 -How to Test the Ignition Module and Crank Sensor (2.3L Ranger, Mustang, B2300)

It has you use a test light to check for ground supply to the coils. Found out my intake side coil one of the inputs is missing. The other intake and both exhaust signals are perfect. I was able to test it at the module as well and the same result but i was able to test ground signal with key off at module the test light illuminates so the wire is fine just no output from the module. Ordered me a module from the local parts store. Get to pick it up tomorrow and pray the CEL stays out and my tach finally works properly :D

 

Just FYI.
The intake side coil doesn't work when starter motor is active, only exhaust side is used to start the engine.

 

I do remember reading that. I took ask my measurements running. My truck runs fine. Stalls at startup sometimes and has a rough idle

 

Try turning key on, count to 3, then turn key off, repeat 3 times then try to start engine.

Fuel pump only runs for 2 seconds when you turn on the key, but EACH TIME you turn on the key.
2 seconds will get about 10psi fuel pressure, your system should be 30-40psi
So if pressure is leaking out when engine is off you would only have 10psi maybe to start engine, so it could start and then stall as pressure drop when injectors opened

Pump comes on full time when engine RPMs are above 400, but building up pressure could take a moment or two

 

That very well could have something to do with it. Going to fix the ignition first. The new module specifically tells you to ground the top left bolt but my intake only has 3 holes to put the screws in. The top left was never drilled and tapped. Found that when I removed it last night

 

I have read that the Ground for this ICM was a known issue, so good place to start