So , I've replaced both solenoids , have power to the starter , pulled the starter and bench tested it , solenoid engages and starter motor spins but still no start , Thinking maybe it's the clutch safety switch but , if I press the clutch and get a click from the fender solenoid , wouldn't that mean that the switch is good? I'm stumped , Any ideas?

 

Welcome to the forum

There is only one starter solenoid, on the starter motor, but it is popular, if not accurate, to call the starter relay, on the inner fender, a starter solenoid.

On the fender is the starter relay, it will have 2 large posts and one smaller post, small post will have an "S" Label.

The "S" wire on Ford's is almost always Red/light blue stripe wire.
This is the wire that comes from the Key switch, and passes thru the clutch switch.
It will have 12volts when clutch pedal is in and key is turn to START.
That 12volts activates(closes) the Starter Relay.

On one of the larger posts of starter relay will be the Battery "+" cable and with it several other cables and wires, this is the Power distribution point for the electrical system.

One the other large post will be 1 cable only, it will run to the large post on the starter motor.

When "S" wire gets 12volts Relay closes and sends full battery voltage to the starter motor, and starter solenoid, solenoid pushes starter gear out to make contact with flywheel and engine turns over.

One big piece that is missing in this, battery "+" voltage is useless without battery "-" voltage, the Ground.
Battery "-" should have a cable running to the engine block, often to one of the starter motor bolts, but to the engine for sure.
Starter motor and alternator are the biggest AMP users, and both are on the engine.

So first thing to do is remove the key from the vehicle.
Put transmission in NEUTRAL..............!!!!!!
Park Brake ON
Tires BLOCKED!!!!!!

Get a short wire
Put one end of the wire on battery "+" and touch the other end to the "S" post on starter relay.

Relay should click and starter motor should turn engine.

If relay clicks but not starter movement then not enough AMPs are going to the starter motor, simple as that.
Could be loose battery cables, either end, REMEMBER the Ground!
Bad starter relay
Bad cable from Battery to relay, bad cable from Relay to Starter

Now just a heads UP:
My 1994 4.0l doesn't have a starter relay, it has what "looks like" a starter relay on the fender.
But my year was the first year of putting the starter relay ON the starter motor.
So the starter motor has the smaller "S" post and the Red/Light Blue wire is there.
Basically they combined the solenoid and relay into one unit since it was easier.

If you look here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Starter-...BWKQpP&vxp=mtr

You can see the smaller "S" post for the Red/blue wire.
On these the battery "+" cable can run directly to the starter motor's large post(top one in picture), or it shares the same large post on "starter relay" as the battery "+" cable so starter motor is always connected to battery "+".
The "S" wire activates it



And just my pet peeve
A solenoid causes mechanical movement
A relay connects and disconnects an electrical circuit

You might use a solenoid to open and close a valve for water or ??
And you might use a relay to control that solenoid, lol

Similar to starter motor setup

 

I have replaced the starter and solenoid , have 12v power to both , jumper tothe starter relay just clicks but new staeter still wont spin , jumper across the solenoid posts just clicks as well , I've cleaned every ground that I can find to no avail . I'm stumped on this one , seems it has everything going for it to make it start but just won't.

 

Starter relay may be on the starter motor.

Look on the starter solenoid, is there a small terminal?

If you want to test if starter relay is on the starter motor then remove large starter motor cable from the starter relay on the fender, touch it to the battery cable post on that relay, so you re "jumping" that relay.
Starter motor should activate with direct battery power.

If it doesn't then you have a starter relay on the starter motor.
So some one sold you the wrong starter or you miswired it

 

Tried a jumper to the small terminal on the starter relay , it just engages the relay but the starter doesn't spin. also jumped from the positive battery post to the "S" post on the solenoid , it makes the starter relay click but not spin the starter . jumping across the 2 posts on the solenoid just makes it click also.

 

When you tried the jumper on the small terminal on the starter motor solenoid, and heard a click that means starter relay is in the starter motor.
And it would only click, UNLESS battery was connected directly to the starter motor.

So first move starter motors large cable over to the battery cables terminal on fender relay, starter motor shouldn't spin, if it does stop.
Once the starter motor has full battery power available, repeat the jumper test to small terminal on starter motor.

If that doesn't work then you have a bad larger cable to starter or new starter motor is bad.
Assuming Battery Ground cable is connected to engine

 

Ok tried that with the same results , so this means the starter cable is bad ?

 

yes, or starter.

Pull it out and hook it up to battery with jumper cables, test it

 

That's the plan if the rain will stop here , I'll let ya know .

 

Finally got a chance to work on it again , I ended up buying a new starter cable and that did the trick , Thanks for all your help . Have one more question for ya tho , My friends ranger has just had new icm , fuel pump , injectors and boots, fuel pump relay and when he hits the key , the fuel pump keeps running but the truck won't start , any ideas ?

 

Boots?

And what year/engine?

Ranger fuel pump should only run for 2 seconds after key is turned on, it won't come on again until engine starts(RPMs above 400) or unless you turn the key off and on again to get another 2 seconds of run time from pump.

So he has a wiring problem if it stays on without engine running.

Assuming engine is cranking but not firing up then he needs to do a 50/50 test.
Spray some gas or starting fluid into the intake then try to start again.
If it doesn't fire then spark is the problem
If it does fire but dies then fuel is the problem
50/50

 

Thanks again , turns out it was a bad ground .

 

Thanks for the update