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Amsoil FAQ/Technical Bulletin on MAF contamination

Old Dec 14, 2004
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Amsoil FAQ/Technical Bulletin on MAF contamination

I don't know if you guys can see this or not. It's in the dealer zone, but it may be accessible from this link. Give it a try:

http://www.amsoil.com/dealer/techser...af_sensors.pdf

It describes MAF technology as it relates to self-cleaning, burnout issues, and oil contamination. I use an Amsoil filter myself, so I found it interesting.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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nope, cant see it...
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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cant see it john, pm me about amsoil stuff, im thinking of becoming a dealer
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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Dang -- okay, it was worth a try. Guess you need a cookie to see it. It's a .PDF file. What do you get when you click it, Leo?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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requests a U/P
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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PM sent.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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yeah john if you could send me what it says as well that would be greatly appriciated
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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yeah come on john, dont leave us hanging like this, whats it say?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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Well, here's the text of it, from the acrobat document but I haven't formatted it from it's original 2 column format with imbedded illustrations, so it's a bit coarse:

AMSOIL INC., AMSOIL Bldg., Superior, WI 54880 (715) 392-7101 © Copyright 2003
DESCRIPTION

The mass airflow sensor (MAF) is a common engine component
on nearly all electronically fuel injected engines. It
is an electronic unit that measures the volume of air being
drawn into the engine and allows the engine computer to
calculate how long the fuel injectors need to be open to
maintain the correct fuel to air ratio under all operating
conditions. MAF sensors have no moving parts. Instead,
they use a heated sensing element to measure air flow.

There are two types of MAF sensors:
hot-film and hot-wire. In a hot-film
MAF, a foil grid is heated about 170
degrees F above ambient air temperature.
In a hot-wire MAF, a platinum
wire is heated approximately 212
degrees F above the incoming air temperature.
As air flows past the sensor element, it cools
the wire and increases the current
needed to keep the element at its operating
temperature.

The wire element is very sensitive to
any form of contamination, including
oil vapor from PVC systems, dirt, silicon,
moisture, etc. To eliminate any deposits on the wire,
it undergoes a burn off cycle every time the engine is
switched off. Approximately four to five seconds after the
engine is stopped, the wire is heated to 1,000 degrees C for
about one second through the use of a relay switch. Due
to the high temperature and the presence of oxygen in the
air, a reaction called wire erosion occurs. Eventually, the
erosion causes the MAF output voltage to be skewed and
will not allow the engine to run correctly. As with the filament
in a light bulb, the sensor wire within a MAF will
eventually fail and require its replacement.

In some instances contamination becomes substantial
enough to produce skewed information, causing the sensor
to over-estimate air flow at idle and under-estimate air
flow at higher air flow volumes. The symptoms of an
improperly functioning MAF include hard starting, engine
stall, pinging, lack of power, jerking, hesitation/surge on
acceleration and high emissions.

Besides contamination, there are other factors that cause
the MAF to fail, including the burn off relay not functioning,
shorting of the MAF harness, overheating of the hot
wire assembly due to grounding, engine backfire, cracking
of MAF housing, dead spot in the throttle position sensor,
vibration or shock, sensor wire fatigue and physical damage
due to poor handling or physically attempting to clean
the wire element.

Because of the many possible reasons for a MAF failure,
the exact cause is often incorrectly diagnosed. Available
diagnostic tools can only indicate that a MAF is not functioning
and provide virtually no information as to why it
failed. All too often, the engine’s air filter is blamed for
the MAF failure, whether it be a conventional pleated
paper filter or an oil wetted foam filter such as the
AMSOIL Air Filter. However, the likelihood of an air filter
causing MAF failure is minimal.

AMSOIL Air Filters will not cause MAF failures for the
following reasons:

• Filter oil is tackified, preventing oil migration.

• MAF sensors are designed to function in the presence
of contaminates.

• Filters are centrifuged to insure the proper amount of
oil is in the filter upon installation.

A rare exception could be if, during field servicing, the
AMSOIL Air Filter was grossly over-oiled or re-oiled
using the wrong (non-tackified) oil.

AMSOIL Air Filters can be used with confidence in applications
utilizing MAF sensors.

TSB: FL-2003-09-01
Date: 8/29/2003
Product Description: Air Filters
Subject: Mass Airflow Sensors
Submitted By: DW Approved By: DRA Approval Date: 9/08/03
Distribution: Internal X All
Page 1 of 1
Technical Service Bulletin
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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Thanks john good to know you had me worried for a bit about the maf and the filter.

Also learned some cool stuff on the maf i never knew.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004
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That's why I wanted to post it, lol! I'm always trying to "educate". :)
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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That is very good stuff. Does Amsoil have a synthetic diff fluid? I think that's the one I thought about using awhile ago..
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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yes I belive so Bryan, I'm going to use that in the spring time
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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I'm using it. They have some new types out. I have the 80w90 Series 2000 fluid in my LS diff with no additives needed. Good stuff.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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Originally Posted by n3elz
I'm using it. They have some new types out. I have the 80w90 Series 2000 fluid in my LS diff with no additives needed. Good stuff.
So john if you use that you don't need the friction additive with that correct. Just want to make sure I understood you before I go and use it and mess the LS up
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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No, as the LS plates take up the new oil, it has a bit of chatter for a few days, then it smooths out. It does seem to have a bit less "slip" though, which is a good thing. I tend to chirp the inside wheel more than I used to.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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Ok sounds good to me. one more thing do you think i should rebuild the clutchpack when I do it has about 65K miles on it now, not sure how long they usually last.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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Yes, you should. Look over on The Ranger Station and there is a "how-to" on rebuilding them in the tech section.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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Awsome thanks man I was thinking it would be about time while I had it empty

Just read the stuff on trs and doesn't seem too bad. Thanks John

You are the man john!!!

Were not worthy, were not worthy!
 

Last edited by dave01978; Dec 17, 2004 at 03:31 AM.
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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Is that the kind I should get John? You're a dealer so I can get it from you right?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004
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I'm not a dealer now, only preferred customer (same pricing, but I can't sell it). For now, get in touch with WholesaleMN.com (Charles) here on the board. Yes, his user name has .com in it, lol. He is set up and ready to go. I will be setting up a dealership in 2005. When I do that, I'll be happy to sell it! Certainly, I'll still be using it!
 
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