So, I've had my 2000 3.0L 6cyl for a little over a year, no issues up to recently. Had a situation about a month ago after work where it wouldn't want to start, tried jump starting it and no results. Had symptoms of not getting fuel (cranking but not starting over), pump was working so I eliminated that possibility. Had it towed home and ran a couple tests, before coming to the that the starter solenoid was shot. Since Advance doesn't sell just the solenoid I opted to replace the entire starter. Started right up. About a week later it wouldn't start again, this time it didn't even want to crank.. a simple jump start and it was back in operation for another week or more... Stopped by Advance to have them test the battery/charging system, everything tested out good. The counter guy advised cleaning up the grounds from the battery, which I did as well as visually check the wires for corrosion,etc. No change.

I'm a fairly competent shade-tree mechanic but electrical isn't one of my specialties. Thought I'd post here to see if anyone else has had similar experiences before I take it to a professional shop.

 

Reads a bit odd

If engine was cranking, starter motor was working, right?

So where did the "fuel issue" come in, and why would starter solenoid be suspect for fuel issue?

I can see the starter motor(not solenoid) drawing too many AMPS from the battery so there was not a strong engine spark to start cold engine, that happens.
And replacing the starter motor would cure that so engine would start right up.

You need to buy a Volt Meter, $20, and you will recover that $20 100 times over in the next few years.

When I was young, I am old now, I had people test batteries and alternators, because I thought they knew what they were doing, and I am sure there are a FEW that do, they just seemed to be "at lunch" every time I came in with a battery or alternator.

So get a Volt/OHM Meter, and you can test your battery and alternator and every sensor and control on yours, or any one else's vehicle.

Let battery sit overnight, or at least 3 hours
This will be battery's "At Rest" Voltage
12.8volts to 13volts is a New battery
12.5volts is a 3 year old battery
12.3volts is a 5 year old battery and at the end of its life
12.2volts, or less is a failed battery, won't start engine on cold day

When you are cranking the engine test battery voltage, shouldn't drop more than 2.5volts
So if At Rest voltage was 12.5v then you should see 10volts and no lower when starter motor is active
If less then starter motor could be drawing too many amps

After engine is running battery voltage test should show 14.2-14.9volts, under 15volts, more than 14volts
After driving for a few minutes, or hours, don't shut off the engine, open hood and test battery voltage again, 13.5-13.9volts should be seen.
If above 14volts then battery is being damaged, voltage regulator issue
If under 13.5volts then alternator is failing

Alternator has 4 wires and is very very easy to test