Blend door access - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 12-26-2007
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Blend door access

I recently started having an issue with my heater. When on the highest heat setting, the air temp is only about 20* higher than ambient. The heater core hoses are plenty hot and the actuator is not broken (the cold settings are definitely colder than the hot setting), so I think something is partially blocking the blend door.

Anyone know how to get to the blend door so I can see if it needs to be cleared out? I saw a few threads where the dash needs to be dropped on '98-up, but since the heater core access is easy on mine, I'm hoping that the blend door access will be also.

(I just had to put this here because it's such a cool smilie)
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2007
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follow the blend door replacement section in John Griggs (n3elz) how-to on istalling the EATC....it is about 1/2 way down that page...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296394/19

the dash doesn't have to be dropped...
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  #3  
Old 12-26-2007
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drop down the glove box to get access to it.

I replaced the whole unit in my 98 and had to drop the dash lol
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  #4  
Old 12-26-2007
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It takes a fairly thin 1/4 inch ratchet and a "cut down" 5/16" 1/4" drive socket. I had a fairly short one, but you could make one as well. With this tool it's possible. It's certainly better than Ford's procedure manual which has you taking out the whole dash!

Have a telecoping or flex shaft magnet or small magnet on a string handy in case you drop the screws behind the duct.
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Old 12-26-2007
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I should think that a ratcheting box wrench (5/16") would do the job nicely, wouldn't it John?

Also, it isn't clear (yet) whether the problem is with the blend door actuator (which is what is addressed in John's EATC pages), or the blend door itself -- I've read, in other threads either here or elsewhere, that the blend door will bind and/or break and need repair or replacement. I've seen a how-to somewhere concerning cutting open the bottom of the ducting to remove, reinforce/repair, and reinstall the door in these situations.
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  #6  
Old 12-26-2007
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It would if you could get it to the screws in the back. The problem is that the unit sticks up above the mounting tabs with very little clearance. There's no way to get a ratcheting box back to the rear screws.

It might be easier for the front screws though. By front hear I mean the ones closest to where you are when you work on it, not the ones towards the front of the truck.
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