Just got a 1999 Ranger / 3.0 with a clutch problem. Previous owner installed a new clutch master cylinder. Could get it into gear but had to really push hard on the clutch to the floor board to do so. The clutch pedal is a few inches lower than the brake pedal, I do not believe this is normal for any vehicle but never owned a Ranger before. I removed the cylinder assembly from the vehicle and bench bled it. I hung it vertical while holding the master cylinder with the push rod downward so hoses were on top for air bubbles to escape upwards while pumping the rod until it had no more travel and no more bubbles coming out then let it hang for a couple days. I reinstalled it and gravity bled the slave cylinder. Then pumped up the pedal and held it in and cracked the bleeder valve a couple different times and believe there is no air in the system. Got back in the truck and pedal is still half way up and when started can not get it in gear. To me it acts like I can't get full pedal travel to engage the slave cylinder fully. The new master cylinder he got from the parts store is supposedly for the year and model of this Ranger. It just seems to me the connecting rod is about an inch short. In my pea brain the clutch pedal should be at full pedal when rod is attached to it right from the start. Grateful for any ideas what is going on.

 

Welcome to the forum

Yes, clutch and brake pedals should be equal "height"

Clutch master does use Twist lock design to pull it out of firewall and to put it back in, after removing the 2 bolts

So do you remember doing that?
If not then it would not be "in" the firewall all the way so wouldn't have full throw from pedal, and pedal would be lower

 

Thanks for the reply Ron. Yes I did twist and lock in place

 

If you are near an auto parts store I would measure your push rod then measure a new one
Push rod comes in the box, unattached, but its clip on the master is one way, so once its installed it shouldn't come out, if it does then the clip broke
Just wondering if wrong push rod was in the last box?

 

We have 4 auto parts stores in our area and none of them keep the master cylinder in stock I was wanting to take the one I have in and compare it to the one they call for. Was told only way to do that was to order one. I figured out the other day on the one I have the rod wont come out. . I had guessed the rod was the wrong one, to short or either the end where the rod attached where you twist to lock may be a little longer if the one I have may be the wrong one .Figures no one I know has a Ranger to measure on. Am guessing I'll end up getting a new one. Thanks again for the advice

 

If you Google: ford ranger clutch master length images

Then look at the pictures, there are some that show the master with the rod next to it and its a few inches longer than master

 

I'll check it out