Cork transmission gasket?
Cork transmission gasket?
Hey all,
I'm changing the transmission fluid in my Ranger (2005 3.0 Edge, rwd, auto) and I bought a cork gasket. I didn't realize until after getting it that a cork gasket has to be applied differently than a rubber gasket, and I'm getting mixed information as to exactly how. Just wanted to ask, any suggestions for applying a cork gasket on the transmission pan?
So far as I can tell so far, it seems that sealants are to be avoided, but a gasket adhesive between the gasket and the pan is a good idea, and perhaps a bit of vaseline between the gasket and the transmission. Does this seem correct?
Thanks!
I'm changing the transmission fluid in my Ranger (2005 3.0 Edge, rwd, auto) and I bought a cork gasket. I didn't realize until after getting it that a cork gasket has to be applied differently than a rubber gasket, and I'm getting mixed information as to exactly how. Just wanted to ask, any suggestions for applying a cork gasket on the transmission pan?
So far as I can tell so far, it seems that sealants are to be avoided, but a gasket adhesive between the gasket and the pan is a good idea, and perhaps a bit of vaseline between the gasket and the transmission. Does this seem correct?
Thanks!
Cork is a better gasket but not reusable, after 6 months or so, because it can break apart on removal
Rubber gaskets can be reused several times if in good condition
You can use RTV(sealant) on either
What you want to avoid is putting on TOO MUCH RTV as it will squeeze out as you tighten the bolts and it will form little "*****" inside the pan that will come off and clog the filter, same happens in oil pans and valve covers, a little is all you need to hold the gasket in place and to fill small defects in surfaces
So thin coat of RTV, on both sides of gasket is fine to seal and hold the gasket in place while you attach the pan
Cork is better because when it comes into contact with oil(ATF) it will absorb some and SWELL up making for a better, tighter, seal, over time
Rubber is better if you are going to be removing a gasket to do work on a system repeatedly
If its a stamped metal transmission pan, valve cover or oil pan, then you should try to straighten the bolt holes, as they can be bent in from over tightening
Bolt holes should not be bent/dimpled in, they should be flush/flat with the rest of the pans mating surface
The bolt transfers holding power between the holes, if its dimpled in then only the spot around the hole has the pressure and very little between the holes
Rubber gaskets can be reused several times if in good condition
You can use RTV(sealant) on either
What you want to avoid is putting on TOO MUCH RTV as it will squeeze out as you tighten the bolts and it will form little "*****" inside the pan that will come off and clog the filter, same happens in oil pans and valve covers, a little is all you need to hold the gasket in place and to fill small defects in surfaces
So thin coat of RTV, on both sides of gasket is fine to seal and hold the gasket in place while you attach the pan
Cork is better because when it comes into contact with oil(ATF) it will absorb some and SWELL up making for a better, tighter, seal, over time
Rubber is better if you are going to be removing a gasket to do work on a system repeatedly
If its a stamped metal transmission pan, valve cover or oil pan, then you should try to straighten the bolt holes, as they can be bent in from over tightening
Bolt holes should not be bent/dimpled in, they should be flush/flat with the rest of the pans mating surface
The bolt transfers holding power between the holes, if its dimpled in then only the spot around the hole has the pressure and very little between the holes
Thank you once again Ron! That's really helpful, I appreciate it. I've got some Permatex Red RTV gasket maker and sealant, and some Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker - would either of those do? If both would work, is one or the other better?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I use the Permatex Red Spray Gasket Sealer on Cork and Paper Gaskets.
I use a lot of 24-Beer Pak Cardboard for making gaskets in a pinch and it works really good with that material.
It works on Harley Stamped Metal Side Covers Cork Gaskets, and those usually leak no matter what (Older Harley) and Cork Valve Cover Gaskets them too !
It needs to be sprayed 30 minutes ahead of time, let set, then a light coat just before use.
Just another thought... RonD's suggestion of the RTV seems to be the new way of handling the problem.
I swear by the Permatex Red Spray Gasket Seal.
I use a lot of 24-Beer Pak Cardboard for making gaskets in a pinch and it works really good with that material.
It works on Harley Stamped Metal Side Covers Cork Gaskets, and those usually leak no matter what (Older Harley) and Cork Valve Cover Gaskets them too !
It needs to be sprayed 30 minutes ahead of time, let set, then a light coat just before use.
Just another thought... RonD's suggestion of the RTV seems to be the new way of handling the problem.
I swear by the Permatex Red Spray Gasket Seal.
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