Do you still happen to have the part numbers for the shackle mounts? mine were in bad shape the last time i had the bed off and i figure i might as well get them and put them on while i have the bed off again.

 

Sorry to hear about your truck. It always sucks to hear about a downed ranger. Good luck with whatever you do. If you don't end up fixing it let me know cuz I need a lot of parts from you truck. Again good luck man.

 

Oh it will be fixed just have to decide how.

 

Nice dude I hope it comes out good. Can't wait to hear about it.

 

heres a google site seach with the correct part
http://www.google.com/#q=99+ford+ran...6639b973fad1f6

 

ahh thanks man i didnt even think about searching google. figured you had to get the from a stealership.

Searched rockauto they have them for $15 a piece

 

i did buy mine from a dealler for 30$ for the 2 of them with my dealler discount when i did it

 

Advance also has them. Dormans, I think I paid 25-30 each.
Might find an Advance coupon and save on shipping from Rockauto.

 

just ordered two of them from rockauto for $38.

 

i would weld the crack first then grind it smooth then weld in some plates but im not a pro either just sayin sounds like a good idea!!

 

I've heard some people say weld the plates, i've heard some people say bolt the plates.
I've always bolted them casue it wasn't up to me. but welding them should work if you've got a good weld going.

 

Im still planning on bolting the plates since supposedly welding the frame weakens the metal, so that would make a weak spot at the end of the plate. but i dont see how leaving the crack open would be better than welding it shut, since the plates are going over the welded spot to reinforce it.

 

be sure to use harden steel bolts... and locktite.

 

I'd weld the cracks shut, then weld in reinforcing plates that are as thick or thicker than the frame steel itself, on both sides and on the C channel...

 

I think you guys might be playing up the welding a bit. I would AT LEAST weld up the crack so its together, then as most you are saying, fishplate both the front and back. My dad converted his 93 Crewcab 350 from long bed to short bed. Cut 16" out of the frame, welded it back up, plated it, and has never had an issue.

 

Friday im going to be taking the bed off of it and then hauling it to the shop to have them look at it and see what they think needs to be done and how much they would charge to do it. i will keep you posted

 

DONT LISTEN TO HIM. BOLT UP A PLATE

 

Ditto. We have 70,000lb Macks running "fish" plates on the frame with up to 45,000lbs. over the repair area at one time, in off road conditions. The plate will do the job.

 

Jeep frames always rot out by the rear shackles and crack by the steering box. The only proper way to fix is is to clean up the rust and weld the cracks and weld a sleeve over the frame. I would take it to a frame shop and see what they say before listening to these guys.

 

This!

 

Thats what I tried to say, but I guess the general consensus around here is to just bolt up some 1/4 " plate.....

 

That's what i was trying to say too weld it shut then weld fish plates in too. I really dont like the idea of bolting that area back together. The other thing you could do is replace the back half of the frame its not hard i've done that for 2 customers of mine bolted a new frame in place then welded the joint and then welded the bolts in also so they couldn't loosen.

 

You can bolt a plate or weld it, it does not matter on light duty automotives. The reason big rigs use fish plates that are bolted in place is because they are not allowed to weld onto their frames as their frames are heat treated and welding will change the frames properties. Automotives frames are not heat treated and is perfectly safe to weld on.

 

^^^^ That is the vest explanation I've heard so far

 

yea me too. just got back from the shop, left the truck there they guy said he would weld it up and put plates on for about $75 so it wont be to bad.