drivers side wheel squeal...... not the brakes! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 06-06-2007
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drivers side wheel squeal...... not the brakes!

ok, so, i have what sounds like something is metal on metal, i have looked but can not find. its a light squeal.... and it points out the fact that my drivers side rotor is warped. however, i dont get the pulling, or vibration, infact, the squeal goes away when i touch the brakes. any ideas? btw, the pads have like 10K left on them.
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Old 06-06-2007
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inner or outer wheel bearing. You need to get them replaced ASAP!!!!! Trust me, I know this from experience! if you don't, you will be seized up on the side of the road.
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Old 06-06-2007
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Tru dat, to above post

my bearing went out also, took the hubs with it if i remember
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Old 06-06-2007
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what kinda money am i looking at for new wheel bearings? also, there is about 42K miles on the truck..... AND while on this subject, how easy/difficult are wheel bearings to replace? and, while im here, should I do both?

Also, why when I step on the brake does the squal go away? and why does it emphysize the fact that my drivers side rotor is warped?
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Old 06-06-2007
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I dunno what to say. I think it was 500 for ford to fix it for me. And i remember it was just sooo strange that my brakes squealed and i definately could stop them sometimes with brake pedal action. but i replaced the pads.

oh that reminds me, there is actually a grease applied to the backs of pads that stops the squealing noise(or tries to help).

two things, make sure your calipers actuall work when the brake is compressed. make sure they are adjusted properly.

the other thing, make sure your 4wd works. i was getting stuck in simple situations for 4wd and didnt even know
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Old 06-06-2007
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Ok, I can answer all of this for you! Yes, finally something that has happened to me that I can share with everyone! Ok, heed my warnings... get he bearings replaced SOON. You will need to do both bearings (as they work best completely replaced on the spindle). Now, I will itemize everything you will need to do this job. I myself spent 2 hours in the Auto Hobby Shop on base doing this, but you can do it in your drive way.

TOOLS:

Some type of Punch set
flat head screw driver
NEW COTTER PIN - Must not forget this
Rubber mallet
something big enough to seat the bearing race in the spindle (big enough circumfrence which would be the same size as the race of the bearing).

Parts needed:

Outer Bearing + Race
Inner Bearing + Race
Rear Seal
Cotter pin as mentioned above.
HIGH TEMP Wheel bearing grease

I do believe that is all the tools.

As far as squealing stopping.... force is applied to the front brakes, which puts more weight on the front of the truck. This in turn MAKES those bearings that are broken, or about to break, start rolling, which stops the squealing.

I myself got VERY VERY lucky! I drove an extra 1600 Miles on mine before I replaced them, and I had 1/3 rollers left on the inner Bearing. The rest fell out when I popped off the rear seal. Nasty Nasty bad situation there. Now, make sure that when you PACK the wheel bearing grease in the wheel bearings that you fill them thourghly! Otherwise, they will seize up.

This job is not hard. moderate level - I'd say a 4 out of 10 on the difficulty meter.
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Old 06-06-2007
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This exact problem is happening to me. There is a sqealing coming from the tire, and whenever I brake, the squealing goes away.
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Old 06-06-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger_Guy15
This exact problem is happening to me. There is a sqealing coming from the tire, and whenever I brake, the squealing goes away.

Ok, read posts.... The fix is there. If you guys have any questions, I am here. Also, I used the Hayes manual for all repairs to my truck, so pick one up if you need extra know-how help.


I FORGOT - YOU MUST REPLACE THE RACES WITH THE BEARINGS!!!!!!! NEVER REUSE THE OLD RACES WITH NEW BEARINGS BECAUSE THE NEW RACES ARE MATCHED TO THE BEARINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-06-2007
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well i figured id rip it all apart and have all the new parts tomarrow, and then let my buddy art, whos a mechanic put it all back together

btw what am I looking at in parts?
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Old 06-06-2007
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I have a set of berrings here if you want them.
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Old 06-06-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMD
well i figured id rip it all apart and have all the new parts tomarrow, and then let my buddy art, whos a mechanic put it all back together

btw what am I looking at in parts?
ok, list of parts is listed above. Cost is like 7 bucks a bearing, and I think the rear seal is 14. I got mine from Napa, and the Races come with the bearings.
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Old 06-07-2007
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would this also explain the mild viberation im getting at about 65-70mph?
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Old 06-07-2007
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Maybe.. but I never experienced that with as bad as my bearing was, and I mean, mine should have seized up as bad as it was exploded!
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Old 06-09-2007
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Is there a vibration usually when you have to replace the bearings? Because there is no vibration with me, just a squeal that starts when I get to about 25 mph, and then it goes away when I start braking. It comes and goes to, sometimes it squeals, other times it doesnt?
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Old 06-09-2007
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I had no vibration on mine at all..... just the squeal
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Old 06-09-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94greenmachine
ok, list of parts is listed above. Cost is like 7 bucks a bearing, and I think the rear seal is 14. I got mine from Napa, and the Races come with the bearings.
A 2004 4x4 has a completely different bearing setup compared to your 1994. The bearings are part of the hub assembly that goes for $240 per side. They rarely need replacement at low miles.

Sometimes the 4x4 knuckle seal goes dry and can cause squealing, especially at low speeds.
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