I have searched google, this forum and others and can't seem to find a direct answer for doing this. Regardless of my reasons, on a 2007 Ranger with four wheel drive; how do I completely remove the antilock brake system? And, remove it such that the ABS and (parking) brake light stay off.

I know theres unplugging the electrical connector at the hydraulic control unit, and disconnecting the brake lines from it. There is also the unplugging of the wheel speed sensors at the front wheels, and the rear differential.

I would imagine that once the hydraulic control unit is removed, I would need a series of tees to distribute the brake fluid from the two outlet ports of the master cylinder to the front and rear wheels; a total of three lines. --There are likely other things I might be forgetting that I will need...

What is the proper way and order of doing all this?

 

I don't think you need to do much more than disable a wheel sensor and it will be off

Video here of adding an on/off switch for ABS:
You could add a second relay to disable the ABS dash light, dark green wire at ABS module is for the light

2006 diagram below, should be the same as 2007

ABS can be a pain in many situations but can be a benefit in others, for the cost of a few relays and a switch you can have it both ways

 

alright, thank you RonD. i have however already seen that video prior to my new thread. i do not though want to just add switches/relays. i did initially state that i want to physically remove the thing; making the vehicle as if it never had the anti lock brake system.

how do i physically and fully remove everything associated and be without the lights illluminating and any related diagnostic trouble codes? as well as what type of tees to use. and, what about proportioning valves? would those be necessary? what do i need?

thank you though for the wire diagram, but i do have a ranger wire diagram book published by ford. it shows all the connections and circuits and where they are.

i dont do alot of hard stopping, and i know very well about decreasing speed in slippery and wet conditions.

 

Proportioning is done in the Master cylinder if there are 2 brake lines coming out, the single line Masters used separate proportioning valves
Ranger Masters use 70/30 proportioning like most pickup trucks

The rear port on the Master is for the FRONT brakes, front port is for the rear brakes
Follow the two lines to see if there is an external proportioning valve, have seen that on some models

You can use any 3-way splitter that matches threads on the brake lines you use, example here: https://shop.nordicar.com/en-gb/volv.../8/7/87696.jpg

One for the front and one for the rear

You could buy a flairing tool and cut and flair existing lines as needed, its a bit of an art but its free to practice once you have the tool, lol

You should be able to disable ABS bulb via the dark green wire, by either grounding it or ungrounding it, but it is a Digital dash so might not be as simple as grounds.
And looks like same wire also can activate Brake fluid level light
Because its an HEC instrument cluster you may not be able to just disable the bulbs either, never pulled one out to look at it

 

okay ron, thank you. per the default installation, coming off the hydraulic control unit; there are three lines going to the brakes. one each for the two front wheels, and just one going to the rear wheels. which i guess gets split at some point near the rear. so, im guessing i would only need one splitter for the front line coming off the rear port. and no splitter for the rear.

so then, other than the anti lock brake system light, what can be done regarding the parking brake light, as i imagine that would come on with a modified anti lock system? i want to know or be reminded that the parking brake is set, though i dont care to know per the light, if brake fluid is low as that never gets to a low point. i forget if it comes on per a modification....

and, once the hydraulic control unit electrical connector is unplugged, would that set any diagnostic trouble codes? if it does, what could i do to still physically remove it, and avoid such codes?

 

Yes, if there is only 1 rear brake line then no splitter is needed

I don't think there is anyway around the "no data connection" codes if you remove the ABS module, you will just have to clear it when it comes up

The Computer "talks" to all the modules and expects an answer, if it doesn't get one it will set a code, something like P1637 in Fords, CAN link ECM/ABS Control Module Circuit/Network error
CAN = Controller Area Network, this system started in Rangers in 2004 I believe
Codes that start with 1 means it's a Ford specific code, 0 is a generic OBD2 code

I think you will have better results by just disabling it via a switch, vs removal.
If it was an older Ranger, pre-2003, it might be more feasible for full removal

 

okay. so will these related disgnostic trouble codes cause a malfunction indicator light to iluminate, or just the ABS light?

 

Malfunction/Engine light will activate, not sure on how long it takes after you clear the code for it to come back
Its not a "emissions" system, which come back fast, but it is a safety system

You can unplug the module and see how long it takes

 

I dunno yet, but I might just disassemble hydraulic control unit from the module; and leave the electrical connector attached. Then somehow secure the module in the engine bay, since I will be removing the bracket that holds the whole assembly there.

With the unit removed the the module left in place, would I need to connect together each of the three pairs of ports on the module, to trick the computer that there is still a pump there? Or, if I just left them open, but covered with tape to prevent debree from contaminating; would that be sufficient?

 

Not sure what you mean but if the module is connected and all the wheel sensors then it should be OK
Yes, the ABS pump needs to be connected to the module as well

No, it doesn't need to be connected to the actual brake lines, only fluid detector is the Master's level sensor

 

the module attaches to the pump by four screws. i will be removing the pump from the module, and then re connecting the electrical connector to the module. the three wheel speed sensors however will be disconnected from their respectable places.

but then, if you suggest that the sensors need to be connected. i may just remove the sensors from the wheels and differential and cover/close off the openings. --Would having the sensors removed, but pluggd in, cause the A B S light to illuminate, by having too large a gap?

or, if i left them connected/installed, but the pump still removed, and there in not controlling the flow of fluid, would i still get a 'lock' since the brake lines arent connected to the removed pump?

with the pump removed from the module, it leaves open 6 'holes' that the pump would normally rest into. would these three pairs of openings need to have 'hoses' to close them off and create a sort of psudo closed connection? or would i be safe simply covering the holes with tape to prevent contamination?

If you are still uncertain of meaning, I can attach an image of what I refer to.

 

The abs light will come on no matter what you tamper with or unplug, every time you start the truck the abs pump and computer do a self test, it pulses the pump to make sure it works. It also constantly monitors wheel speed and if there is a fault of any kind it will throw the light on. If you take the sensors out it will throw a light for a lost signal from the sensors.


Just leave well enough alone. If you don't want ABS yank the fuse

 

thank you djfllmn for your input here. however regarding your pulling the fuse suggestion, that particular fuse, is part of other circuits, so pulling the fuse on a 2007 ranger is not a simple fix.

other than leaving well enough alone and pulling the fuse to affect other systems. i think i will just remove the hydraulic control unit, redirect the fuel lines, leave the module plugged in, and unplug the three speed sensors. and then, try clearing any related diagnostic trouble codes.

 

the codes WILL NOT clear no matter what you do. they will all come right back...your truck was not designed to run without ABS

every ford truck since 2001 has had 4 wheel abs as standard equipment and the brake system is designed around it

again just leave it alone

 

why are you wanting to disable the ABS anyway?

 

hmmm. well alright. thank you again. i think all i will do is unplug and remove the whole assembly and re direct the brake lines; and use a tee for the front brakes. not even bothering with the wheel sensors. and work around the brake fluid level sensor as it is part of the anti lock brake circuit which will then be unplugged.

but yes, thank you.

 

that is right out of the Ford WSM, removing that ABS module would be like taking the PCM out and expecting the truck to still run properly

so you can't even disconnect a sensor. Just leave it alone. under normal operating conditions the ABS does not activate.

 

well if you were referring to the ford workshop manual, i have the two volume one that ford put out for the 2007 ranger. though i dont recall reading that which you quoted here. i will review it again. thank you for the information and the comparison to removing the control module.

 

that is the ford manual, pulled it right from the online manual here at work

 

okay, thank you

 

That EBD is interesting, not sure Rangers had that, and was unaware of any pressure sensors in the Ranger ABS system
By default when ABS is active the "other end" would have more pressure because ABS was releasing pressure at the opposite end to prevent lock up, so maybe it is just written in a way that makes it read like it can sense pressure
I just assumed they did regular pickup truck 70/30 proportioning on the Rangers

But I like the idea of it in a Traction control system, if you had weight in the bed the rear brakes would have better traction for slowing down

Not sure it matters on why you want to get rid of ABS, same as not wanting fuel injection or a computer controlled transmission, lol.

Make it YOUR truck

Just don't slide into me at a stop light or I will have to eat my words............................LOL

 

well ron, my 'why' is based on most definitions i see. it seems an electronic help for stopping. versus the old way of 'pumping' the brake pedal to stop. computer does it faster, owner does it slower. in my (however amateur) opinion, it is another (unnecessary?) assist in modern vehicles. --power steering, brake booster, anti lock. some i guess would compare its removal to also removing the spare wheel.

 

If you grew up with anti-lock brakes on front wheels its different than it you didn't

I am old so know the downside of braking in an emergency, and also trying to turn to avoid the problem when braking, while its possible to duplicate anti-locks ability to allow steering without lock up its hard to do it every time and in ever situation, lol, like computer can
Computer is not smart, it just tries to keep wheel rotation from dropping to 0 too fast, and thats all it has to do, doesn't have to worry about anything else, like a driver does

And I don't think there has been a better improvement on a motorcycle than front ABS, in 50 years, don't like it on the rear, because I like to lock up back wheel sometimes, lol, but on the front its F..ing amazing


New drivers have the advantage of not knowing that turning while braking hard is WRONG WRONG WRONG, because it isn't with ABS, lol.
Us old guys have to get over that hurdle in our thinking if we drive with front ABS

Anybody can duplicate, and even improve on ABS, when stopping in a straight line, its the turning to avoid the obstacle(s) is where ABS has the advantage

 

well i dont use the truck a whole lot, but it has a little over 100000 miles on it; bought new and special order in 2006. and most of the whle i drive about 30 miles one way (and back) 5 days a week. along a one lane highway at 55 miles per hour around 430am. the road is rarely busy and hardly any worry about passing any vehicle. there are deer to 'worry' about, but i havent seen a one to be wary of in the last 6 months. here in oregon, rain and wet roads can be a common concern. and snow is a rare and skimpy commodity along most of these roads. and most of them are more straight with hardly any curves to worry about.

im in my early 40s, and have been driving for about 10 years. i cannot think of one 'emergency' stop ive had to do since driving this truck. on most highways and interstates here, i drive no faster than 55. and when i come to a stop, it is gradual and not at the last 3 or 4 seconds. i think most people, including a traffic court judge (once) would agree that i am a good driver. but im sure good drivers also get into crashes...

several months ago, i disabled the power brakes, so stopping for me has become more gradual and slower. which i believe has been an unintentional 'training' for driving without anti lock. as with power brakes, stopping can be much quicker with a skid being more prominent. i havent yet pulled out the brake booster (Diaphragm) but am sure once i do, stopping may become quicker.

i will eventually remove the anti lock system, and see how driving goes. if it gets crazy, ill just put it back in.

 

You need to adjust the brake pedal ratio when you change to manual brakes, and thats about it, booster only adds assist using the 15psi air pressure at sea level to aid driver in pushing on the pedal

Power brake pedal ratio will be about 4:1
Manual brake pedal ratio 6:1

That why its hard to press brake pedal down on power brakes when there is no assist/vacuum

Drawing here: http://knowhow.napaonline.com/wp-con...1/pedal-1a.jpg

Measure X, distance from pivot point at top of pedal to the pedal say it is 12"
The measure from pivot to pushrod, Y, say it is 3"
X / Y = Ratio
12 divided by 3 = 4, so 4:1 ratio

If push rod was at 2" then 12 / 2 = 6, so 6:1 ratio

So if you drill a new pushrod hole and move it up your manual braking will be easier