2002 Edge 3.0 automatic
Second time I've been stranded now at ¼ tank.
My dad never had this problem when he had the truck before me (2 months ago).

 

Does the gauge seem to work normally above 1/4 tank?

If so there could be a problem in the gas tank, either the float is sticking or sender connection is corroded and won't go down below 1/4 tank, or there is a hole/crack in the fuel line from the pump up to the top of the tank, when its exposed to the air(1/4 tank) then air is sucked into the fuel line and that will cause the engine to stall and not restart


2002 Ford fuel gauge/sender/float uses these OHMS, actually 1989 and up, Ford still uses same ohms
16 ohms EMPTY
158 ohms FULL

OHMS is resistance to ground in this case
Sender in the tank is grounded then has a wire out to the gauge, yellow/white wire

Resistance in a wire should be 0 ohms, under 50ft
But if there was corrosion on the ground or sender wire then it may be 30 ohms instead of 0 ohms
So gauge would read about 1/4 tank when it was EMPTY
BUT.............it should also read way over FULL when tank was full
So next time you fill up let the pump "click off" and do not add more, see what the gauge says, should be just at full no higher

 

When I fill it, it seems full. That was how I got the 15mpg last time.

 

Ok, I just filled it and it does show too much, it took 11 gallons or so. Here's "empty" and full.

 

Might have some corrosion on the connector on the top of the gas tank, need to pull back the bed to access it and at that time you can also check the float and sender

Regular cab has a 17gal tank(16.5), supercab 20gal(19.5)

 

What does "pull back the bed" mean? Sounds like some **** nobody in their right mind is going to do.

 

Here we go....Anger issues. Saying dumb **** again.

 

I would ask you why you don't explain it, but I know you're just here to troll, so I won't bother.

 

I see two members that need to chill and leave each other alone. I'm not here to give out any more warnings.

 

If you want to get to the fuel pump & sending unit, no choice. 6 torx head long bolts in bed....remove. Unplug harnesses for rear lighting including liscence plate lamps. Will have to take off realr lenses and inner housings. One person on each side @ rear fenders. Pick up/wrestle the bed up/ rearward. Feed wiring thru rear taillight openings....careful. Fuel pump/sending unit on driver side 2-3 ft back from rear of cab. Also undo 3 small phillips screws visible when you open gas fill door. Might as well order rubber filler neck with all the trouble.
. Plenty of youtube vids on this process. After all this trouble, change fuel pump/sending unit. Best with low gas in tank. Good luck. Ken

 

Yes +1^^^

Unless you have a shop with a lift, dropping the gas tank to get to the top of the tank is not a good option, and you can break connectors and fittings if you do it wrong

Pulling back the bed a few feet will give you access to the top of the gas tank
As said 6 bolts hold the bed to the frame, 3 screws hold the filler hose to the bed, unplug the taillight wiring harness
1 person can move the bed back going from side to side and inching it back, two people make it much easier

Some Tilt the bed up in the front, that's another option, same as above but instead of sliding the bed back two people lift the front of the bed up and put in 2x4s, or ??, to hold it up while the work is done, you don't need to unplug the tail lights for this method

Picture here of where the fuel pump access ring and wiring is: https://www.ranger-forums.com/howtos...uelPump017.jpg

That's the back of the cab in the picture, so its only about 3" behind the cab


When vehicle was assembled at the factory the bed was off, so all the wiring and hoses where attached to brackets, when trying to lower the tank with bed on you need to detach these attachment points but by FEEL as you can't see above the tank

 

Thanks, that sounds like the least difficult method, although I doubt I'll ever be able to do it. Just gonna have to watch the gauge carefully unless it gets worse.