I was installing my Superlift over the last few days, I noticed.. On the Passanger side, Inner CV Boot.. on the very last rib of it, there is a tiny little cut in the boot. It's hardly big at all. I tried flexing the shaft around to see if anything came out, and just a little tiny pinch drop of what looks like grease comes out if you move it just right. I didn't know what else to do, but I put some sealant on it seeing if it would seal it up.. for the time being. It might need to be replaced I'm assuming. But i'm wondering, is the rubber boot just to keep dirt and contamination out from inside there? I wouldn't think the entire thing was full of grease, but there should be some in there right? or is it internal failure why a little grease came out of the little slit in the boot?

Thanks guys!

 

No internal failure, that boot is full of grease. In time the rip will grow, grease will leave/junk will get in causing the CV to fail though. Keep an eye on it.

 

That's what i was figuring. It's just a tiny little slit that barely makes its way through it. I put a decent amount of sealent on it, and I think that will keep it closed up for some time. I will keep an eye on it though, I'm thinking when I am having Randy's Ring and Pinion do my gear swap, since they have to drop the front diff, seeing what they'd charge to replace that CV Boot as well.

 

I'm wondering, does the front axle half shafts spin with in 2wd? or is it only when you lock into 4WD?

 

it is a live front end so yes.

 

I had two simular tears. I used a soldering iron to melt the slits shut, it is a little difficult though. So far it has held up (1 year) but I have manual hubs and only leave them locked through winter.

 

umm.. mine is a 99, im not sure if it's live axle. the soldering iron trick might work pretty good actually, the tears are really tiny.

 

it might be a "timy little slit" but centrifical foces will pull all that grease out and the next thing you kno....failure then replacement.

i'd fix it asap especially since reader told you it's a live axle.

 

Ok. It's going to need to be replaced I know. I have a 99 with Vaccum hubs. I don't know a whole lot between the newer live axles between what i have. I was always under the impression that the live axles, everything spins all the time, even in 2wd. And the PVH style only engages with you transfer it into 4wd. Correct me if I'm wrong, because I probably am.
thanks!

 

Nope. You are right.

 

The entire shaft is around 75-100 new.

The snap rings on the 99's are a real PITA. As long as your hubs are working correctly i would not worry about changing it out right now. I would wait for a warmer dry day for it.

If you have never replaced a wheel bearing or ball joints i would do those at the same time if you plan to do this yourself. Going to add 250 to the costhe wheel bearing being 150+ pending your sourcing.

 

It sounds a lot easier than it is. It is real easy to go too far and make it worse, you are also heating up the grease on the other side of the rip too, however it still works great. I would say it's worth a shot.

Can't you buy new cv boots that clamp on, or do they only work for the outer cv boot?

 

Do not attempt to replace the boot, its not worth the time and effort. A new boot will cost you around $25, and a used joint from a JY will cost you around $45 to $55, most yards have a life time warentee on those.

I had to replace my outter boot. I tore the thing apart, and I couldnt get the outter joint apart so I just went and got the used one.

How to replace the CV half shaft:

1. Jack up and secure truck take off wheel
2. Remove brake calipers and rotors
3. Lock the truck into 4wd
4. Remove the wheel nut (32mm or 34mm)
5. disconnect the ABS wire from the frame
6. seperate the upper ball joint (remove bolt then either use a crowbar to pry up on the UCA or put a bottle jack on LCA and push the 2 apart.
7. Use a wheel pusher to push the CV out of the wheel bearring.
8. Using a pry bar, pop the CV shaft out of the front axel.

To put it back in:
1.push the shaft until it clicks into the axel
2 reverse all steps

the wheel nut torque 184 ft lbs
upper ball joint 41
brake mounts 89 ft lbs