Howdy everyone....

I just purchased a 1994 Ranger XLT (Manufacture date of 9/93) with a 2.3L SOHC.

Sucessfully changed the broken timing belt today along with a few minor things here n there... Truck runs nice, minus the muffler being in the bed but i'll tackle that on another day....

** I was wondering if anyone could post a picture of their 94 dash with all gauges at OP temps.... My temp gauge looks a bit on the low side so just wanted to double check and I'd like to know where the oil press should sit too....

** What or where should i look at to get my fuel gauge to work? when I turn the truck off, the guage goes up, when i turn it on (just key on) it goes to E... any ideas?

with the truck being a 94, would it have the OBD-II or OBD-I? whats the best way to check engine codes? on my 91 toyota it was shorting a few ports on the ECM plug... I'm guessing with the muffler out, theres probably no o2 sensor plugged in? havent actually looked....

Thanks all for the taking the time...


Trucker_Dave

 

Welcome to the forum.

1994 was the last year of Rangers with the EEC-IV computer which used OBD1
There is only one O2 sensor on 4cyl OBD1, it is near exhaust manifold
EEC-V computers with OBD2 used a second O2 after Cat converter to make sure it was working.

So bad muffler won't effect O2 in 1994 unless if was blocking the exhaust from exiting system.

This video shows how to use CEL(check engine light) to get codes: www.youtube.com/watch?v=X07hu0kAuzE

Your engine is a 2.3l SOHC Lima, also called Pinto engine, 2.0l/2.3l/2.5l Limas all used the same block.
These are good reliable engines, almost bullet proof.

1994 was also the last year of a separate ICM(ignition control module), it is located on the front of the intake, and could be troublesome.
Newer computers had ICM built in.

On the 2.3l Lima only the exhaust side spark plugs fire when starter motor is active, intake side spark plugs will start firing when engine RPMs are above 400.
Once engine is running all 8 spark plugs fire and both spark plugs in each cylinder fire at the same time, there is no alternating.
And both fire on compression and exhaust stroke, Waste Spark system.

In the late 1980's Ford change all vehicles over to an oil pressure Switch, and added a resistor to the oil pressure gauge.
Switch closes at 6psi and Grounds the gauge, so oil pressure should be between 1/4 to 1/2, and stay there, regardless of RPMs, any changes on the gauge would be voltage in the system going up and down with RPM.
1994 can be changed back to "real" gauge, read here: Ford Oil Pressure Gauge Fix


The temp sender for the dash gauge is located on the drivers side head toward the back, an odd spot because it won't have highest temp, which would be at thermostat housing, like where temp sender is on most engines.
So yes temp gauge would be just at or above 1/4, on other Ranger engines just below 1/2 would be "normal" temp.
Thermostat should be a 190-195degF not 180degF, all fords now use 190-195degF thermostats, longer engine life, better MPG and cleaner oil at those temps.
In colder climates some run a 205-210degF thermostat in the Limas, they run too cool when outside temps drop, heater barely works.
They also add air blocking panel in front of rad to keep engine bay warmer.

On the back of the instrument panel is the Anti-Slosh module for the fuel gauge.
These do have problems, it prevents gauge from swinging up and down when cornering, most vehicles have similar circuits, Ford's just seems to have more issues that others.
Google: ford ranger anti-slosh module

There are a few video and articles about this.
With instrument cluster out you can also test wire to fuel gauge sender in the gas tank.
Yellow wire with white stripe runs from cluster all the way to the top of the fuel tank.
In 1994 Ford uses 16-158 Ohm sender, 16ohms Empty, 158ohms Full
With OHM Meter hooked up to yellow wire and a ground, rock the truck, OHM meter should show ohms changing as gas sloshes around and float goes up and down.
If OHMs are higher than 158 then wire may be broken or sender in gas tank is
If ohms are at(around) 16 and just stay there then float has a hole in it and has sunk to the bottom of tank
If ohms are below 10 then wire is shorted to Ground or sender is bad

 

Hey Ron,

thanks for the info there... So far looks like all my gauges are in the range you described above.... The oil pres. sits just above half, fuel gauge does work, the truck was just on E when i got it and I had to put 3Gal in to get it to register on the gauge... water temp sensor may need to be replaced.... I drive 12miles one way to work and the temp barely hits the first \ on the gauge... I'm guessing since the sender is at the back of the eng, that would be why? I'm also having a hard time reading the codes out on the MIL... I'll post a vid here shortly if someone wouldn't mind helping me figure out the codes....

Thanks again for all the info.

 

sorry for the bit of glare on the dash.. if anyone could help me with the codes i would appreciate it..

 

That separator "pulse", one flash, might be throwing you off, it did me the first time, lol

Flashes are:
116
116
Separator 1
211
332
211
332


211 means computer is not detecting ignition timing pulse from engine, could have been set when timing belt broke or you have a loose wire on the ICM(ignition control module) located on the front of the intake

332 means EGR valve did not respond during test, because there was no test, or you may not even have an EGR Valve

116 is the ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor is "out of range"(this is not the same 'sensor' used by the Temp Gauge.)

What comes in handy here, with 116, is what codes the computer DID NOT USE.
It didn't use
117 ECT sensor is/was low or grounded(shorted wire or shorted sensor)
118 ECT sensor is/was high or open(broken wire or broken sensor)

It used 116 ECT out of range
On a 2.3l ECT sensor is at front of engine, drivers side just below intake, 2 wires connected.
Because Temp gauge on dash is also showing low reading after warm up it could be the thermostat is stuck open or the wrong temp, 2.3l needs 195degF thermostat.

Try this test for thermostat
Start engine cold and feel upper rad hose, by the radiator, should be cold
Let engine idle or drive it for 3-4 minutes
Feel upper rad hose again, it should still be cold, if it is warming up with the engine then thermostat is open, and it shouldn't be open until engine/coolant gets to 190degF, and that takes 5 to 10 minutes depending on outside temp.
Upper rad hose should heat up suddenly, thermostats are +/- 2deg so fairly accurate, they are suppose to fail open, since failing closed would cause overheating, so as they age they may not close all the way.
So if upper rad hose slowly heats up with the engine then time to replace thermostat

Computer has a timer inside, it starts when engine does, if ECT sensor temp doesn't show above approx. 180degF after 10 minutes it will set 116 code.
It still could be the sensor, and for $6-$8 you could just change it, but because Gauge is also showing lower temp I would suspect thermostat first

 

awesome thnx Ron.. where would I locate the EGR if it happens to be on this truck? and if there isn't any EGR is there a DIY to keep the code from coming back? and as for the ICM, any idea on a good way to test it?

 

So i did some looking around and noticed a plate bolted down on the back of the intake...



and judging by the Vac diagram on my hood, im going to guess that it's the missing EGR that the green line the a bolt attached to it, goes too....





On top of that, I did start the truck, let it idle for a few min with my hand on the top hose as you suggested.. It does get warm as the engine does, so you called it Ron, thermostat is probably wide open. I'll be ordering a new one this week..

 

If you have an EGR system the valve will be on the back of the engine, with a metal tube running down to exhaust system.

Diagram here: | Repair Guides | Emission Controls | Exhaust Gas Recirculation (egr) System | AutoZone.com
Diagram is looking from the BACK side of the engine

EGR(exhaust gas recirculation) system has 3 parts
EGR Valve, a valve that is opened by engine vacuum, and closed by a spring, when there is no vacuum
EGR valve has a vacuum hose attached

EGR modulator/activator, this is a solenoid valve controlled by the computer , it controls the vacuum going to EGR Valve, it has two vacuum hoses, one goes to intake manifold(vacuum source), the other goes to EGR Valve.
Computer Pulses 12volts to this valve so it can open it a little or alot.

EGR sensor, not sure what was used in 1994 on the 2.3l.
It could have a sensor on the top of the EGR valve, when valve moves sensor tells computer if it moved and by how much.
It would have wires connected to the EGR valve for this type

DPFE sensor is the latest EGR sensor, it has wires and also two hoses that connect to EGR Tube and exhaust manifold.
The DPFE sensor detects pressure changes between the two hoses.
If EGR valve opens the the closest hose will show a pressure difference from the father away hose, telling computer the valve opened, the larger the pressure difference the the more the EGR Valve opened


EDIT, yes that is an EGR Delete plate

Good test on the thermostat, we shall see :)

 

Yep, will be getting the T-Stat come next friday. along with a new water pump.. Since i'll be draining fluid, figured i'd get this down and out of the way too... normaly i'd replace a water pump when the timing belt gets changed as most cars i've owned, the water pump would be in the way of the belt.......

Thanks again Ron, I'll post an update in the next weekend.