Hello everyone! New here to the forum and the Ranger community. Recently picked up a real nice 1992 Ford Ranger XLT, 3.0L V6, with a 5 speed manual trans.

I've got a few things I need to fix up on her, mainly the oil pan seal is sticking out on the front end and needs to be replaced, and the transmission is leaking some fluid but I'm not sure where yet.

It's also making some trans/clutch noise, when you press the clutch in the noise goes away, but when you don't have your foot on the clutch the noise is there, and when it is in gear. So, because the trans is leaking, I'm hoping the noise is just a low fluid level, or maybe a worn out throw out bearing, since the clutch bite point is pretty high up and so you can tell its a bit worn. I will try and post a video of the noise, and maybe you guys will know what it is.

So, my questions are this:

- What kind of trans fluid, type, and quantity does my 5 speed trans take?

- What could be causing the trans/clutch noise?

- Any tips on removing the oil pan? I've heard it sucks on these trucks...

Thanks for the help guys!

 

You have an M5OD-R!(M5R1) manual trans used in Rangers from 1988 thru 2011, it uses ATF, Mercon V, yes, automatic transmission fluid in a manual trans

Throw out bearing is making the noise, for sure

Yes, removing the oil pan sucks
You need to pull the engine out, OR pull the transmission out and jack up the engine
You might be able to lift the engine enough to drop the pan down enough to repair the leak point, but trans hits the tunnel so only an inch or two of extra clearance

Problem with removing most oil pans is the oil pump pick up INSIDE the oil pan, its at the bottom of the pan, of course, so the pan need to drop down the height of the oil pan to pull the pan out

In the 3.0l there was a common issues of the front cover leaking coolant, timing chain cover
Oil pan gasket is at the bottom of that cover, so when replacing that front cover gasket, WITHOUT dropping the oil pan, you will often get an oil leak there because its no longer sealed

 

Thanks for the reply Don! What you said is exactly right! I tried pulling the oil pan off with a good buddy of mine by just jacking the engine up and that stupid pickup tube is in the way, as well as the I-beams and the crossbar. So yeah unfortunately I need to either pull the trans or the engine, and obviously the trans is a lot easier to do, even though I hoped I wouldn’t have to.

However this is sort of a “blessing in disguise” for me since obviously the throwout bearing is making noise in gear and when your foot is off the clutch, and the clutch only has maybe 10%-20% of its life left. The “bite” point is pretty high up on the pedal.

So now, I’m just going to pull the trans and do the oil pan the right way, then put a new clutch in her. I am more of a motorcycle and small engine mechanic than a car guy, so I’ve never done a clutch job before. Any suggestions on brands of parts, and tips when doing the procedure? Not looking for a crazy high-performance clutch or anything, just something mid-grade that’ll last me. Should I replace the clutch, throughout bearing, slave cylinder and everything while I’m in there? I’m thinking about doing everything just while I’m in there, because this will be my daily driver, and I don’t want to have to replace something in a month or two. Also would it be good to do a rear main seal? Thanks!

 

Replace the regular pressure plate with a Self Adjusting model, only a few dollars more but makes dealing with a new clutch disc alot easier

Self adjusting clutch(SAC) keeps the pedal engage/disengage at the same place throughout the life of the clutch disc
The SAC plate is fully retracted with new THICK clutch disc installed, then as the disc slowly wears down the plate moves to keep the engage/disengage at the same place on the pedal

LUK made the Ford clutch parts and also first to use SAC, but most Rangers got regular pressure plates, and many people just never heard of SAC so used regular pressure plates with new clutch installs
And that's why all the posts with "new clutch and can't shift in to 1st(or any gear) with engine running", lol
There is barely enough travel in the master/slave to disengage a new thick clutch disc with a regular pressure plate, this only lasts a few weeks but does wear down the disc faster until its thin enough to match travel

 

Thanks for the info, I’m sure with my novice understanding of clutches and stuff I would have bought the wrong stuff!😂

if you could, would you provide me some links of some parts I should buy? Is there a kit out there that includes everything that I need? Also, any specialty tools that I will need to install it, I’d imagine that everything needs to be lined up with the engine and trans to work properly.