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Old May 13, 2018
  #1  
NorthMichigander's Avatar
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From: Onaway, Michigan
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Saved 1998 Ranger XLT 4x2 regular cab from becoming a bump-n-run racer last summer $300 purchase to save Ranger from becoming a bump-n-run racer. Needed alot of work.I have done some cosmetic repairs, new items that include shocks, tires, brake work, plugs, pcv, egr, some vacuum hoses, as well as the SeaFoam cleanout. Bought a used topper, interior clean up and added a new double din bluetooth stereo, and some other things.

After alot of clean up and repairs of about $1000.00, my $300 purchase looks pretty good.My only other issue is that the 2.5L engine with manual tranny just won't power up a hill to save its own ***. Because of all the things I have done, it runs better & smoothet with a steady idle. Gas mileage has improved by 5-6 mpg, to roughly 18-19 mpg. Timing is good, I even did the throttle cable/wire ties trick to get rid of slack. But going up a moderate hill causes severe loss of power and alot of down shifting.

can anyone tell me what I am missing? I am not a mechanic but can figure most stuff out. It almost feels dangerous to be driving at 55-60 mph, then suddenly drop speed like I am applying brakes while going up a small to medium hill. Any help will be appreciated.
 
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Old May 14, 2018
  #2  
Dngr Rngr's Avatar
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From: IL
dont have a dragging brake do you? drive for awhile at 55 on a back road then coast as much as you can and safely turn off using the brakes the least ammount or if its a really back road just coast to a stop on the shoulder in a safe area( ie not at the top nor bottom of a hill). Set parking brake make sure its holding then get out and touch as close as you can to the lug nuts on the wheels. They may be warm but should be able to hold your hand there forever without pain. If you find one that burns you the brake is dragging on that wheel.

What plugs did you put in it? Gapped correctly? What about the wires? Air filter? Clean MAF?

Their not exactly speed demons - an efan and or underdrive pullies would help quite a bit to free up some torque.
 
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Old May 15, 2018
  #3  
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Welcome to the forum

Nice looking truck, I love Red Rangers


Loss of power could be a few things
Start with changing fuel filter, if you haven't already
And air filter

Get/borrow a Vacuum gauge, good tool to have and costs about $20, with this and a Volt/Ohm meter you could start your own repair shop, lol.

Vacuum gauge can tell you if compression is OK or marginal, and if you need to do a compression test.
It can also tell you if exhaust system is getting plugged up, an engine is basically a self powered AIR PUMP.
If air can't get out then new air can't get in so...........you loose power

Good read here on using vacuum gauge: Technical Articles: Engine testing with a Vacuum Gauge - at Greg's Engine & Machine

Don't let the references to carburetor throw you, lol, no matter what they add to an engine, i.e. fuel injectors or any electronic "do-dads" it still remains an AIR PUMP, so checking pressure is the best way to see how its working internally


If you have an EGR(exhaust gas recirculation) system then remove the vacuum hose on the EGR Valve, and plug that hose.
Go for a drive up a hill and see if power is restored.
EGR valve could be opening too much, this should set a code, so a long shot test, but FREE to try
 

Last edited by RonD; May 15, 2018 at 11:06 AM.
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Old May 15, 2018
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Dngr Rngr's Avatar
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From: IL
http://www.onallcylinders.com/wp-con...-reading-1.png

love that chart. huge and print and put on shop wall.

sid enote - where should one connect a vacuum gauge? like what port is open all the time as i know some dont open till a load happens.
 
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Old May 15, 2018
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Most engines will have a Vacuum manifold, on upper intake, power brake vacuum hose is usually plugged in there, and there will be smaller ports with it.
If one is capped then remove cap and use it.
If all are used then remove one hose and use it.

Smaller hoses on the upper intake will be for EGR, EVAP, FPR(1997 and older), and Vacuum reservoir, any of these can be unplugged to test vacuum.

Or add a "T" to any of these hoses.


Vacuum in the intake is generated by the pistons sucking in more air than is available in the intake, so you get negative air pressure, not really a vacuum of course, lol, just what we call negative pressure generated by a machine, i.e. vacuum cleaners
 

Last edited by RonD; May 15, 2018 at 10:45 PM.
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