Oil Drain Valves? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 01-05-2006
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Oil Drain Valves?

Hey all! Has anyone used the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve, or the Fram Sure Drain? Since I'm Finally going to start changing my own oil, this seems like it would be great - having a hose drain the oil right into the container! As always, any help is appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 01-05-2006
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i've always wondered about those myself but i have a plug with a magnet on the end and i would lose that if i put the valve on that is the only reason i haven't tried it
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Old 01-05-2006
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I had thought about using one but
1. It's easy enough to unscrew the plug
2. I haven't had full confidence in them not dumping the oil out on the highway or the trails. It may be fine, I just have to think is it worth saving 10 seconds on an oil change for that worry? I'd be looking under the truck 5 times a day.
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Old 01-05-2006
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I use the Fram sure drain and I like it a lot. It sure does make oil changes less messy. Nothing bad to say about it - no leaks, etc. - neat little part IMO.
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  #5  
Old 01-05-2006
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I have a Fram Sure Drain and love it. I got it because a dealer tightened the **** out of the drain plug damaging some of the threads in the pan. I tried getting a new OEM plug, but the damaged threads in the pan messed it up too, so I got the Sure Drain. With the Sure Drain, no additional damage is being done. I have had it for probably a year and so far it has not leaked or anything. Oil drains slower because the opening is smaller, but it's less messy because you can control the stream of oil. Even without damaged threads it is a nice thing to have.
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graniteguy
2. I haven't had full confidence in them not dumping the oil out on the highway or the trails. It may be fine, I just have to think is it worth saving 10 seconds on an oil change for that worry? I'd be looking under the truck 5 times a day.
Chances of that happening are slim to none. The end cap on the Fram is sealed with a gasket, so even if the valve were to leak (highly unlikely), the oil would not be able to leak past the end cap.

Like I said, I have had mine for a year and it doesn't leak a drop of oil.
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Old 01-05-2006
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I think the idea is really good, but the drain plug is in such an easy spot to get to why mess with it? For other vehicles, yes, but not for my Ranger.
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Old 01-05-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graniteguy
2. I haven't had full confidence in them not dumping the oil out on the highway or the trails. It may be fine, I just have to think is it worth saving 10 seconds on an oil change for that worry? I'd be looking under the truck 5 times a day.
Agree 100%. It is not worth the risk. Period. Is saving a couple minutes worth the risk of new engine? The little 'protective cap' can vibrate off, the valve can open, or or or... aint worth it. I'll stick with my 1/2" socket (or whatever the hell it is)
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  #9  
Old 01-05-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacodiablo
Chances of that happening are slim to none. The end cap on the Fram is sealed with a gasket, so even if the valve were to leak (highly unlikely), the oil would not be able to leak past the end cap.

Like I said, I have had mine for a year and it doesn't leak a drop of oil.
Sounds like it is worthy based on the responses so far. Every one with concerns have never used it. Every one with it loves it.
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  #10  
Old 01-05-2006
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While all the people that have tried the Fram unit have good things to say about the item.... I am not much of a gambling man and feel that while this item does make oil changes easier.... You actually only save the plug removal and installation time, but then lose the time you saved by a slower drain time due to the smaller drain hole.
I feel like I am gambling whether the valve or cap will fail. I am going to play it safe !!
Save the gambling for Las Vegas, Atlantic City or Monte Carlo...

OR 4x4
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  #11  
Old 01-05-2006
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I'd had the fram for over 12 oil changes now. The only downside is it drains slower.
The brass end cap isnt going to vibrate off.
I like it because I put the hose on it and drain it right into a empty 5qt jug...
no messing with a drain pan at all now.
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  #12  
Old 01-05-2006
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For those doubting, I don't have one installed, but, do you honestly think that Fram would sell a product that just randomly fails?????? Seems to me that would be pretty bad press and lack of QC. I highly doubt you'll see one just suddenly start dumping oil.
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  #13  
Old 01-05-2006
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Gotta put my $.02 in...

I've had the SureDrain for three years on my 4.0, and no problems. I will conceed that the entire plug sticks further down from the oil pan the the stock plug. If you shear off the plug assembly, I'd say you have bigger problems that that anyway. You also lose the magnet. It also drains a lot slower too, so it helps to do the oil change with a hot engine so the oil runs faster. Besides, it gives me time to load up a Skoal.

Like Rand does with his, I just stick the end of the tube into an empty milk bottle and let it run. Gotta shut the flow off to change to and empty bottle once the first one fills up.

Here's where it gets fun... I used a PermaCool remote oil fiter kit that I ordered from Summit Racing to relocate the oil filter. The filter is now on the outside of the passenger side frame rail. It's tucked up far enough that it won't get damaged. The oil filter is mounted horiziontally, so when I unscrew it there is no oil to run down my arm as with the filter screwed to the engine block. I just set a milk jug with a funnel under the oil filter before I unscrew it.

I made these changes because I was tired of the mess from the original setup. I'm rather pleased with it. I have nothing to clean up except the funnel, and nothing winds up on the garage floor.

With most oil fiter relocation kits, the required filter is the same size as the Fram PH-8A (I run the Motorcraft FL-1A). This is a larger filter that what fits the block, and with the volume inside the tubing (it takes about three feet in each direction) I run an extra quart of oil. That's probably too much, but I'd rather have a little too much, than too little.

I deviated a bit off topic, but the mess comes from the oil fiter, not the drain. If you want to keep it clean, this is the way to go!
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Old 01-05-2006
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Good trick for our filter is to cut the top off a 2 liter soda bottle, loosen the filter, then put the cut off bottle around the filter. As you spin it off with the bottle around the filter, all the oil goes into the soda bottle.
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Old 01-05-2006
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I use the fram one and I love it!
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  #16  
Old 01-05-2006
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Well since we are talking about filters now..

I take a 2 liter bottle. Cut the top off about 2/3 away from bottom.

Then you loosen the filter to where it almost starts dripping.

Slide the cut bottle completely over the filter.. then loosen until it falls into the
bottle.(if you arent careful it will splash)

Continue holding the 2 liter there for about 15-20sec to get all the drips.

And voila.. Last oil change I got 1 drop of oil total.

Also you can then drain the filter and 2liter mostly into a funnel in the
old 5qt bottle. Toss it then when I get 2-3 5qt bottles I take them to
autozone or advance auto parts for free disposal.

Rand
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  #17  
Old 01-06-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rand
Well since we are talking about filters now..

I take a 2 liter bottle. Cut the top off about 2/3 away from bottom.

Then you loosen the filter to where it almost starts dripping.

Slide the cut bottle completely over the filter.. then loosen until it falls into the
bottle.(if you arent careful it will splash)

Continue holding the 2 liter there for about 15-20sec to get all the drips.

And voila.. Last oil change I got 1 drop of oil total.

Also you can then drain the filter and 2liter mostly into a funnel in the
old 5qt bottle. Toss it then when I get 2-3 5qt bottles I take them to
autozone or advance auto parts for free disposal.

Rand
Hmmmm...I wonder where I read that before.......
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  #18  
Old 01-06-2006
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I'd be worried about bashing up the valve when off-roading, and then loosing the oil. I have no problem with the few seconds it takes to unscrew the stock drain plug and screw it back on.
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  #19  
Old 01-06-2006
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The valve has a strong metal casing thingy on it. If your bashing it up offroading your truck is screwed anyways.
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  #20  
Old 01-06-2006
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uh I posted it about a year ago ? :) For some reason I didnt see your post
or I wouldnt have typed mine lol

And as far as breaking it offroad... other stuff is lower so its doubtful.
and anything that hit the oil pan hard enough to break it would
give you bigger problems.

Rand
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  #21  
Old 01-06-2006
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eh, I dunno why they put the filers on the way they do, in my opinion its just a big headache for everyon, in my 4 cylinder car, the filter was upside down, so all the oil drained back into the engine, made removing it a piece of cake, i could also reach it from the top wich helped ALOT.

now on the ranger, I have often thounght about taking an awl and poking a hole in the old filter to drain the oil from it, however the fear of damaging the block has prevented me from doing this.
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  #22  
Old 01-06-2006
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I was thinking about getting one of those oil filter relocators.
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  #23  
Old 01-06-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roach2004
I was thinking about getting one of those oil filter relocators.
They're nice, but can be a headache sometimes. I have to tighten my hose clamps every winter becuase it drips some oil. Getting the fitting on to the block requires a threaded nipple adapter that is supplied with the kit. Had to use Teflon tape there, and tighten the heck out of it to prevent leaking. The kit instructions say to replace the hose every two years, but I'm going on three without any problems.

PM me if you want some pics. I'm due for my next oil change in 1000 miles, so I can get whole setup shot.
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  #24  
Old 01-07-2006
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i got about 70k on my sure drain

no problems

well worth the 12 bux IMO

remote filter
do the still use the stock fl1a?
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  #25  
Old 01-08-2006
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The remote filter adapters mostly all use the fl-1a filter, a-long with several other filters. motorcraft has sevelal filters with the same thread and gasket area as the fl-1a.
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