professionally painting a non painted valance: cost, materials? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 08-10-2007
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Icon3 professionally painting a non painted valance: cost, materials?

Ok so i got my old valance... and I am definitely painting it. I have all the equipment to do a professional job of it. But what I need is a complete list of supplies. What primers to use and all that stuff. If someone could come up with like a ball park estimate on paint supplies i need that would be fantastic. This is something I have wanted since I got the truck and would like to have it done by christmas of THIS YEAR. Now i figure if I can get a list of what i need and what not i can slowly pick up the materials.

As far as protecting it from rock chips, I have an idea about that. They make clear bras now for the front of vehicals, I was thinking I could us that, only on my valance instead, and that would keep the chips out of it...

Now like I said, i have the same gun the shops use, same equipment, probably better equipment, but I need a material list and a price list as to what im looking at in cost of materials, since I have never done anything even remotely of this caliber, a like heads up would be great.
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Old 08-10-2007
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is the plastic textured? your gonna have to smooth that out otherwise it will be a pain for the paint to stick, and that clear plastic will make it look hideous
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Old 08-10-2007
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Since it is plastic and flexible wouldn't you want to use the same guidelines as painting interior?
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Old 08-10-2007
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I would suggest going to your local auto paint store and tell them what you are doing, and they should be able to tell you exactly what you need to use. How flexible is the valence? If it doesn't flex under normal conditions, you can probably get away with not using a flex agent. What I would do, assuming the valence is new and doesn't have any scratches in it, and that it doesn't have hardly any texture is spray a coat or 2 of epoxy primer, or adhesion promotor.....then, spray your base coat, and then spray a couple coats of clear. You may want to put flex agent in the clear, depending on if the valence flexes. I cant remember the price of the epoxy I used, but it used to be omni 170 epoxy primer, but now its shopline, and I dont know the # of it......its probably around $20 a quart, and 10 bucks or so for the hardner. The price of the base coat will vary a good bit depending on what color it is, and what brand, but you are probably looking at somewhere between 25 bucks and 60 bucks for a pint. I dont think your color will cost anywhere near 60 for a pint if it doesnt have metalic in it (my color costs 75 bucks for a pint). I would suggest getting some color matching cards (whatever they're called......they have like 3 or 4 different shades of gray so you can determine what shade of primer you should use under the base coat cause it effects the color shade some.....and then spray a coat of clear over that.....and compare it to the paint on your truck so you can get a good color match). Deltron concept 2002 clear will cost about 50 bucks for a quart of clear, and another 15 or so for a half pint of hardner. As far as reducers go, just get the reducer that is made to be used with the paint/ clear you get. Hopefully I said everything that needed to be said.
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Old 08-10-2007
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now that flex stuff, ca i add that to each coat?

the valance is whats left over from my accident, its got some very minor scratches, and scuff marks, and is textured. I know I will have to sand it... as far as flexing, i cant see it flexing anymore than a painted valance.

would it be easier to paint a painted valance a different color?
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Old 08-10-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMD
now that flex stuff, ca i add that to each coat?
you mix it in while you're mixing the other stuff in.

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as far as flexing, i cant see it flexing anymore than a painted valance.
They could have put a flex agent in it from the factory

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would it be easier to paint a painted valance a different color?
yes....cause all you have to do is scuff the paint, apply a coat of epoxy or sealer and spray paint.......it would take alot more work to sand the texture off the other one because then, you have to work your way up to finer grits to get all the scratchs out from sanding......you may end up having to apply primer to get rid of the scratches, which adds to the thickness too.

Last edited by SouthernMudSlinger; 08-10-2007 at 09:44 PM.
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