Hello!

I recently picked up a 97 B2300 (2.3L SOHC 2x4) 5 speed for just around a thousand bucks. This thing and Frankenstein's monster would be good friends. It runs and has AC, so we're off to a good start, but have some things to address.

Currently I'm dealing with a handful of issues and need advice on where to start.

Trouble Code P0125: Insufficient Coolant Temp for Closed Loop Fuel Control
Thought I had this solved, but it popped again recently. First thing I tackled when I bought the truck. I assumed I had a stuck open thermostat. Took off the thermostat housing to find no thermostat in place. Installed new thermostat, new gasket. I ran it for a week and a half and the code is still showing. Noticed I have a small leak at the thermostat housing's connection to the upper rad hose and my coolant reservoir is dry. I will likely be performing a coolant flush, reseating the hose, and refilling to address this. The engine IS getting up to temp now, and gauge is staying just below the half-way mark. I may have forgotten to clear the code, so I've done that and I'm waiting for it to return.

Trouble Code P0401: Insufficient EGR Flow
My understanding is that this is possibly a bad EGR valve, unlikely, a bad DPFE sensor, likely, or clogged/dirty EGR ports. I was going to attempt diagnosis of EGR flow by blocking the EGR solenoid bleed hole, but it looks like it's been installed upside down on the vehicle... I can't get the cap off, the alternator is below it and I can't get in there.

Is there any chance that my EGR Solenoid being inverted might be the cause of my issues? The cap is facing the ground rather than the hood as I would expect. Is it OK to be installed this way or should I remove and attach in the expected orientation?

Trouble Code P1443: EVAP Control System Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve Fault
I've found a diagnostic for this code at the following link, which I originally found on ranger-forums but the site is no longer up, hence the old Wayback Machine link to the archived page. https://web.archive.org/web/20130619...ger/FR_EPS.htm

However, this video I found suggests simply swapping the purge valve:
Is this potentially related to my P0401 code? Should I go borrow a Vacuum kit and multimeter from the Auto parts store and walk through the diagnosis before part-throwing? What is the potential effect of not addressing this code? I'm in a state without emissions testing.

Shifting Difficulty:
This is my first 5 speed, so I'm not familiar with how far the clutch pedal should travel or how firm it should be or how tough the shift **** should behave. I'm currently able to bottom out the clutch pedal. Even then, I feel like I'm using the force I would need for flipping a circuit breaker switch every time I change gears. Occasional grinding into 2nd. This doesn't happen when the engine isn't on. Shifting is not challenging. I'm assuming I have air in the master cylinder considering my pedal travel. I'm going to be following this video's advice to diagnose:
Poor Fuel Economy:
I have no idea if this is potentially related to any of my codes, my shifting problems, or if I'm shifting too late and just wasting fuel somehow. I typically shift between 2500 and 3500 RPM. Tires are new. I'm sometimes getting 100Miles to a tank. Sometimes just under double that. What's the range on a 2.3's full tank? My math says I would expect between 350-400 miles on a 16G tank. Agree? Attack the upstream O2 sensor? This fuel economy is killing the budget.

Flickering Oil Gauge Needle:
Cold engine, flickering needle. Warms up, settles down. I'm about to do my first oil change on the vehicle with some seafoam mixed in. Expecting to change again after about 500 miles. Likelihood of the oil screen being versus bad oil or a bad pressure switch? I don't think lifting the engine is in my future.


Where should I focus my efforts? Any pointers based on my reports?