Hey guys I'm new to the site but have been lurking for a few months now. Back in December I picked up a 2002 Ford Ranger 4.0 XLT 4x4 off road. Having been out of the Ranger or truck game since 2003 I have to say I really missed driving one of these trucks. The one I picked up is in pretty good shape for its age however it is an 18 year old truck so I have had to do a few little things to it.

Now hopefully one you can tell me if this is normal or not because I don't really remember. When I go to start my truck if it's been sitting to a while it seems to be taking to long to turn over, maybe three or four seconds when cranking it. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires all with Motorcraft parts so I know this isn't the problem. My next thought is maybe the coal pack is going bad? My brother tells me there's two circuits in the coal pack and one could be bad. Could this be the issue or is this just normal for Rangers?

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Rory

 

Welcome to the forum

V6 coil pack has 3 coils inside, but not your problem

Most likely issue is that your fuel pressure is dropping too low after sitting
2002(1998 and up) Rangers run 55psi fuel pressure, when you shut off the engine/key that pressure may drop to 35psi but it should hold there for MONTHS, and MONTHS

When you turn on the key to start the engine, the fuel pump runs, but for only 2 seconds, its a safety thing, and that adds about 10psi of pressure
If your pressure had drop to 0psi that 10psi not enough for a quick start
So try this test
Turn key on then off, 3 times, so 6 seconds of fuel pump run time and 30psi pressure
Then try to start engine
If it starts faster then you found the problem

If you don't smell gasoline, so not an external leak, then pressure is bleeding off in the gas tank
There is a fuel pressure regulator(FPR) in the tank and of course the fuel pump which has a built-in Check valve, either of these can cause pressure to bleed off if they are leaking
Both are on the Fuel Pump assembly
So you would replace that if you have a mind to
Turning the key on and off a few times isn't a big deal for now

The engine should not start for at least 1 second, thats on purpose, spark won't start right away so oil pump can circulate oil first, then spark starts


Just a heads up on the 2002 4.0l SOHC engines
The 1997-2003 4.0l SOHC had timing chain tensioner issues, high failure rate
Your two tensioners should already have been replaced, its not hard to do
If you don't have any paper work to that effect then I would plan on replacing them, and the sooner the better

If you hear a "rattle" on startup or mid-RPMs then damage is done, broken guides, and engine must be pulled out to change the rear guides and chain, so not an easy fix at all

Only use Motorcraft tensioners, they cost more, but not as much as pulling out the engine, lol.

 

Thanks for the reply Ron. I did as you told me and it started right up so now I know the issue, losing pressure in the fuel system!
So basically I need a fuel pump if I'm reading your post correctly? The regulator comes with the fuel pump but the problem could be the pump it's self? Is it at all possible that the pressure is leaking out of the gas cap or is this not possible? If I'm not mistaken I'll have to remove the bed to replace the pump ?

Thanks for the heads up about the timing chain. I've actually already done the tensioner, idle pully and belt with Motorcraft parts as well as the thermostat and housing assembly.
Still going to need front brakes and lines before the end of the year and now I'll add the fuel pressure problem to my list!

 

Thanks for the reply Ron! I did what you said and the truck started after a second so now I know what the issue is. I don't smell any gas so it must be the pump or regulator which means new fuel pump and bed bolts as I know some will probably break when being removed from my 18 year old truck! I've looked at videos online and it seems that removing the bed is easier then dropping the tank? Do you agree?

Thanks for the heads up on the timing chain. I've actually already done all of that as my belt was squealing and had a bad barring in the idle pully, tensioner was also replaced with Motorcraft parts.

 

If you have a shop with a lift and a transmission jack you can lower the gas tank down to replace fuel pump assembly, but if not then you need to move the bed back or up
The problem is the wires and hoses on the top of the tank, you can't just lower the tank down, you need to lower it a bit then reach in and unplug wires and hoses which is OK, its getting them back on thats the hard part, lol and also lining up the straps to secure the tank

I was referring to the timing chain tensioners not the fan belt
There are two long chain tensioners that can fail on the 1997-2003 4.0l SOHC engines

 

I have a place that rents bays out close to me but seeing as I plan on removing the bed anyways to coat the frame with some kind of rust retarder I should just kill two birds with one stone. I did watch a video this morning were a guy dropped the tank to do this but unlike his my truck is in Michigan and i'd be to worried about the tank straps or bolts breaking do to rust so removing the bed is probably the safest bet.

When I read tensioner my first thought was the serpentine belt and tensioner. I haven't noticed any other noses coming from the motor but will definitely check it out. I don't hear any rattles from the engine and my RPMs seem fine as far as I know. What would you consider mid- RPMs?

 

3,000 is mid rpm

But..................if you hear the noise its TOO LATE, engine has to be pulled out

Which is why I suggested to replace the two tensioners if you don't have a history of this engine, i.e. no documents that they have been replaced already

 

Thanks Ron I'm going to talk with my brother who's a mechanic and has worked on a lot of these trucks and see what he says. He'll likely tell me the same thing but first the fuel pump issue. The truck felt a little rough when idling today.

 

just replaced the fuel pump on my 2000 2.5L by removing the bed and once you get the bed off it’s really not bad. 3 lines on the top and a big plastic nut comes off and you’re ready to swap.

Getting the bed off isn’t bad either. 3 fuel inlet screws, unplug the tail lights and the 6 T55 bed bolts and you’re good to go. Make sure to soak the bed bolts in PB blaster for a solid 15-20 minutes and they should come out fairly smooth with a cheater bar.

 

Thanks Robert. I've watched a few videos online already and it dose look pretty simple to remove. Does anyone have any advice on what brand of fuel pump to buy other then the Motorcraft one? I'd like to go with Motorcraft but they are so much money and cast is tight right now!

 

 

Thanks HomeontheRanger. I do know for a fact that the problem is the regulator in the fuel tank although mine is nowhere near that bad when starting it up. I just leave my key in the on positions for two seconds and the truck starts right up. It's on my list to take care of but I've been dealing with other issues. Next up is new wheel hubs as I have a bearing starting to go and then after that a new fuel pump assembly.