I know much has been written concering this subject. I am now looking for information on how to proceed with the replacement of my CMP. Here is what I know. The magnet came loose in my Camshaft sensor and wiped out the CMP reluctor vane. Now I have no point of reference for where the vane is pointing at TDC. Since the vane is missing, putting the alignment tool on the old CMP is useless since there is nothing for it to hold. I have questions. Does the vane on a "95 3.0 point to 75 degrees counterclockwise or some other degree point. Is the engine set to TDC of cylinder #1 or 10 degrees after top dead center. Visually, do you use the Crankshaft position sensor or the triangular pointer cast on the engine block ? No one mentions the engine block marker. Basically, with no point of reference from the vane, how do you make reference marks. Any help appreciated.

 

10deg ATDC but on the power stroke.
The crank turns two times for one turn of Cam, 4-stroke engine, CMP is timed to Cam.

So there are two #1 10deg ATDC.
TDC for compression stroke, ATDC power stroke, <<< you need cam at this position
TDC for exhaust stroke, ATDC intake stroke

If you remove #1 spark plug and rotate engine manually you can feel air being pushed out of #1 spark plug hole during compression stroke, when TDC mark comes to 0deg that is TDC compression stroke, turn crank a bit more for 10deg ATDC power stroke.


Look here for the rest: Ford Ranger 3.0L Camshaft Position Sensor

 

Thanks Ron.
I have a pressure/vacuum gauge connected to # 1 cylinder so that I can see piston coming up on compression stroke. My question is what "marker" to use to determine TDC. I have seen Ford drawing of a TDC indicator cast on the block. It is to the right of the Crankshaft sensor. Some say TDC is when 0 degrees passes under the crankshaft sensor. I am inclined to believe the pointer on the block is the correct TDC marker. Why would Ford put it there if it had no purpose. Any thoughts.

 

Picture here: Crank mark for TDC - Ford Ranger Forum

The pointer under the CKP sensor bolt will line up with 0deg at #1 TDC and there will be a missing "tooth" on the tone ring under the CKP sensor, thats how the computer tells #1 TDC.
If you can't see the 0deg or other marks put some talc on a rag and rub that pulley area

 

Thanks for your help Ron. I quit making it complicated and just put some reference marks based on old sensor position. Put tool on the new sensor and dropped it in. Seems to be fine.

 

Good work

Thanks for the update