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  #1  
Old 08-23-2008
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Which rotors?

I'm getting closer to doing my brakes. Fronts only. I'm gonna go with hawk ceramic pads but not sure what rotors to get. I was thinking of getting slotted rotors but not sure yet. What rotors should I get and who has the best prices? Any advice on this would be great. Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-23-2008
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I really like my stoptech slotted rotors and have only heard great things about them from customers.

http://www.modbargains.com/product.a..._Ranger_4WD_KY
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Old 08-23-2008
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i would just get stock replacements, i couldn't justify spending $150+ on just rotors.
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Old 08-23-2008
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I couldnt either until I felt the improvement over stock/stock type rotors.

I tow a 16 foot flatbed trailer with a buggy/quad and firewood on it without trailer brakes and have consistent and powerful stopping with the new rotors. With my old brakes I was getting ready to do trailer brakes, now there is no need.
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Old 08-23-2008
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EBC USR rotors and Yellowstuff pads, massive improvement over stock. I made a tutorial putting them on, you should take a look at it.
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Old 08-23-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I couldnt either until I felt the improvement over stock/stock type rotors.

I tow a 16 foot flatbed trailer with a buggy/quad and firewood on it without trailer brakes and have consistent and powerful stopping with the new rotors. With my old brakes I was getting ready to do trailer brakes, now there is no need.
humm maybe I'll have to look at some of those rotors then
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Old 08-23-2008
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Old 08-23-2008
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Heres the link to my tutorial

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=69753

Your rotors are on the wrong sides.
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Old 08-23-2008
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Originally Posted by korey89 View Post
Heres the link to my tutorial

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=69753



Your rotors are on the wrong sides.
So I've been told...but looking at your pics, ours seem to be on the same.
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Old 08-23-2008
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So I've been told...but looking at your pics, ours seem to be on the same.
It's not so much as the way the little cuts face, the cooling veins on the inside are what matter. Mine are on the right way, they have what side they are supposed to be on stamped into them. You can see in your pictures that yours had stickers that said what side they were supposed to go on.
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Old 08-23-2008
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Thanks for the replies guys. The writeups are very helpful. Now I see the bearings come off with the rotor. I would imagine I should get new bearings? Or should I keep the old ones? Can you tell me exactly what I need to get to complete the job? I would like to have everything before I start pulling things apart. Thanks

I already have a grease gun, torque wrench and sockets/tools that I would need.
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Old 08-23-2008
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Originally Posted by 05Edge-04GT View Post
Thanks for the replies guys. The writeups are very helpful. Now I see the bearings come off with the rotor. I would imagine I should get new bearings? Or should I keep the old ones? Can you tell me exactly what I need to get to complete the job? I would like to have everything before I start pulling things apart. Thanks

I already have a grease gun, torque wrench and sockets/tools that I would need.
your 4wd will be different than our 2wds. I am not too sure how the bearings come apart on the 4wd, but you will not have the same bearing/snout assembly that we have
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Old 08-23-2008
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Hmmmm..
The fordparts website says the inner/outer bearing races come with the rotors so I would assume they are pretty similar.
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  #14  
Old 08-23-2008
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I say this in all practicality.. Just use stock replacement items. I can bet I go 0-60 and back to 0 faster then 99% of all the trucks on this site.. Theres no justifiable difference between shelling out 150$ per rotor for some ' super duty magical brake parts '.

If you need more braking, put discs on the back. Anything else, your wasting money, especially with ceramic pads that drive the heat back into the rotor and cause early warp to them. Sure, theres less ' brake dust ', but thats their only real advantage.

Are slotted rotors worth the extra 100$ each.. For *ME* no, and I guarentee I beat my brakes more then most teens beat to certain websites.

Semi-metallic pads and a replacement rotor will work just fine.
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Old 08-23-2008
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
your 4wd will be different than our 2wds. I am not too sure how the bearings come apart on the 4wd, but you will not have the same bearing/snout assembly that we have
4wd rotors require no bering as they are a cartridge mounted to the spindle. The rotor has no races in it. Its like a washer that sits over the hub assembly and is held on by the wheel itself. The rotor doesn't ride on the spindle like ours do.
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Old 08-23-2008
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Originally Posted by D. View Post
I say this in all practicality.. Just use stock replacement items. I can bet I go 0-60 and back to 0 faster then 99% of all the trucks on this site.. Theres no justifiable difference between shelling out 150$ per rotor for some ' super duty magical brake parts '.

If you need more braking, put discs on the back. Anything else, your wasting money, especially with ceramic pads that drive the heat back into the rotor and cause early warp to them. Sure, theres less ' brake dust ', but thats their only real advantage.

Are slotted rotors worth the extra 100$ each.. For *ME* no, and I guarentee I beat my brakes more then most teens beat to certain websites.

Semi-metallic pads and a replacement rotor will work just fine.
I dont often do this, but I HIGHLY disagree with you on this one D.

first of all, its $200 for a pair of sloted rotors. Its not $100 more each...just to clarify that one.

I do not push products I dont believe in, and I do believe in these brakes. Like I said, I tow...ALOT. I have noticed a HUGE difference in braking performance with a pad/rotor upgrade. My old brakes had plenty of life left in them and they performed very poorly compared to the stoptechs.
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Old 08-23-2008
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The stock rotors have warped on me twice. Nothing has happened to my EBC rotors.
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Old 08-23-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D. View Post
I say this in all practicality.. Just use stock replacement items. I can bet I go 0-60 and back to 0 faster then 99% of all the trucks on this site.. Theres no justifiable difference between shelling out 150$ per rotor for some ' super duty magical brake parts '.

If you need more braking, put discs on the back. Anything else, your wasting money, especially with ceramic pads that drive the heat back into the rotor and cause early warp to them. Sure, theres less ' brake dust ', but thats their only real advantage.

Are slotted rotors worth the extra 100$ each.. For *ME* no, and I guarentee I beat my brakes more then most teens beat to certain websites.

Semi-metallic pads and a replacement rotor will work just fine.
My brakes had PLENTY of life left in them and they sucked. Remember you are rolling on little mustang wheels and low profile tires and we've got big wide heavy tires. Takes a lot more force to slow them down then it does your wheels. The rotors won't make as big of a difference but the pads are sure as hell for the extra money. And what does 0-60-0 have to do with anything? Nothing.
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Old 08-24-2008
D.
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Time to beat the jester..

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Originally Posted by korey89 View Post
My brakes had PLENTY of life left in them and they sucked.
You added how much rolling mass?

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Remember you are rolling on little mustang wheels and low profile tires and we've got big wide heavy tires.
I would hazzard a guess my tires are NOT that much smaller then yours, nor are 17x9 wheels.

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Takes a lot more force to slow them down then it does your wheels.
Are you 100% sure of this?

Quote:
The rotors won't make as big of a difference but the pads are sure as hell for the extra money.
Again, have fun with the ceramic pads putting heat back into the rotors. I USED to run ceramic pads, guess what I learned.. Theres not much difference is stopping compared to semi-metallic.

Alon has a senario when TOWING. There MIGHT Be a difference there, its something I didn't run my own benchmarks on ( that would be a hit for you. ).

Quote:
And what does 0-60-0 have to do with anything? Nothing.
DUH! Were talking about stopping after accelerating.. You can comprehend such as were speaking of brakes here.

If you don't like this response, take a look at your own first. You were replied to ' in kind '.
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Old 08-24-2008
D.
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I dont often do this, but I HIGHLY disagree with you on this one D.

first of all, its $200 for a pair of sloted rotors. Its not $100 more each...just to clarify that one.
OK, I was wrong on the price, My apology for such. Still.. a waste of money IMO. These are for a truck, not a sports car running scaa laps or an autocross.

Quote:
I do not push products I dont believe in, and I do believe in these brakes.
I won't doubt your faith in them.

Quote:
Like I said, I tow...ALOT. I have noticed a HUGE difference in braking performance with a pad/rotor upgrade. My old brakes had plenty of life left in them and they performed very poorly compared to the stoptechs.
Did you run a side by side 60-0 or 100-0 comparison and check the distances? I did when I was toying with brakes and converting to dual piston rear calipers. My 60 to 0mph distances were no different ( +/-5 feet ) with slotted, drilled AND slotted and regular standard replacement rotors. 100-0mph was the same, negligible. Not anything worth speaking of.

If they work for you, great. I found nothing of ' praise ' from those that I have tried.
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  #21  
Old 08-24-2008
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I went from brand new under 2,000mile raybestos pads and resurfaced 80k rotors. Resurfaced at new pad install.

Then the 35's went on.

Then the Stoptech kit went on.


Went from essentially brand new un-warped stuff, to brand new stoptech rotors and the posi quiet pads. I definately felt a difference.






Korey....Alon's and mine are on backwards? what? according to the instructions that came with the rotors, it really doesn't matter on our application because we have non-slanted cooling veins between the disc surfaces. If we had slanted cooling veins, yes, the must be slanted a certain way for cooling.

4x4's are super simple. Wheel off, Caliper off, Caliper mounting bracket off, disc slides right off. Be sure to apply red locktite on the those caliper bolts....they like to walk.




Original poster...me personally....i'd run stock rotors. I upgraded because of the 35's and loss of braking power due to the added unsprung weight and rolling weight.
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  #22  
Old 08-24-2008
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i hope you dont plan on doing any off roading with drilled/slotted rotors!

the mud gets packed in the holes/slots and guess what happens next.

personally these are a waste of money and no ranger will see any benefit other then looks by installing these.
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Old 08-24-2008
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My pads are not ceramic. 0-60-0 time has nothing to do with this, 60-0 yes. Obviously the stock brakes are gonna suck after putting on 33's, not denying that. Look up the weight of your tires and wheels online, and measure how tall they are.





Shane, Alons rotors are on the opposite way as yours. If you look in the pictures you can see stickers that say what side they are supposed to be on so I figured the cooling veins were directional.
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Old 08-24-2008
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Mark....have you driven a ranger on 35's and stock brakes? Add the steelies.... yea. umm...i got a benefit out of them. And yes I wheel it. But i'm no flordia person who drives only though mud puddles. trails, rocks, and snow. no real mud up here. oh...there's a coating, kind of a clear coat in those slots...so rust shouldn't be an issue. oh...and I don't have salted roads either.
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  #25  
Old 08-24-2008
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I have no experience with slotted rotors, but comparing only 60-0 or 100-0 times isn't completely relevant. Running 33's or 35's adds a lot of rolling mass, and decreases braking performance due to the larger diameter, and having less leverage on the brakes due to the increased arm of the tire diameter.
The main problems I've had with stock type rotors and pads is overheating and warping. Driving up and down mountains and trails with larger tires heats up the rotors a lot. The brakes begin to fade. Eventually they start to warp and shudder as they heat up. The same issue comes up when towing in hilly/mountainous regions.
Again, I have no experience with slotted rotors, but your generalization of saying that no ranger will ever benefit from slotted rotors is bull****. The few comparisons you did with your use means nothing to people on the west coast driving in the mountains with 35's, or pulling a trailer. I didn't scroll back through, but I don't remember anyone claiming decreased stopping distances on initial braking. Better braking feel and decrease fade I think are the key points.
We get it, you don't think they are worth it in your application, and you're probably right. But you can't possibly know if they are useless on someone elses truck the way they use it.
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