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  #51  
Old 07-17-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerEdgeO2
Yes. If you put it in your crank case or have the engine ingest it via a vacuum line, you need to change your oil afterwards.
Cool, thanks!
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  #52  
Old 07-17-2006
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Only if you put it in the crankcase!
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  #53  
Old 08-26-2006
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do i really have to change my plugs afterwards? whats the recommendation?

it will be ingested through the vaccume line
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  #54  
Old 08-26-2006
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How are you guys getting it into all cylinders from the vaccum line? Mine smoked like only 2 cylinders were getting any action.
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  #55  
Old 08-29-2006
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i did this tonight.....

but earlier i had a fuel induction service, and tranny flush prior to this

i sucked it down the vaccume line, and gave it about 15 minutes. then started her up.....i couldnt see that there was THAT much smoke but there was a little. is this because the benefits of seafoam were taken care of by the induction service from earlier tonight?

thanks!
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  #56  
Old 10-05-2006
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Use Marvel Mystery Oil. It works just as good and its a heck of a lot cheaper.

Been using MM for about 20 years.
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  #57  
Old 10-06-2006
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used it in my truck twice....works great
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  #58  
Old 10-06-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerBoy02FX4
i did this tonight.....

but earlier i had a fuel induction service, and tranny flush prior to this

i sucked it down the vaccume line, and gave it about 15 minutes. then started her up.....i couldnt see that there was THAT much smoke but there was a little. is this because the benefits of seafoam were taken care of by the induction service from earlier tonight?

thanks!
An induction service is pretty much the same thing, only more thorough I believe.

Usually you don't see all that much smoke come out of it, at least I haven't anyway and I've used it a few times.
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  #59  
Old 10-06-2006
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Damn, My 93 is on 199,865 as of this morning. I think I'll pick a can up and do this tonight. Might make it feel peppier!
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  #60  
Old 10-06-2006
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After using it and running the hell out of my truck it made it a lil peppier. It smoked a good bit the first minute or two, after that it smoked like a cold startup in winter time for like fifteen minutes. I had to d/c the battery to clear the CEL. Still haven't gone to autozone to get codes pulled though.
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  #61  
Old 11-24-2006
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Hey guys!
I added the seafoam per the instructions in this thread, and wow, it got a little scary!
I think I let the vacuum suck it in too quick and I heard a pop right before the engine died. Well, I thought, start it up again and it wouldn't. I waited a couple minutes, all the time going stir crazy, then it started! Ok, I was back in business now. Turned it off and waited the 15 minutes then started it up again. Wow, you wouldn't think with only 81,000 it would smoke sooo much! I took it for a spin, distressing a few neighbors and after about a mile it calmed down. Idle is much smoother, and exceleration improved! I'm lovin' my little 3.0 again! Thanks to all of you for the help!
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  #62  
Old 11-24-2006
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I put some through the brake booster hose, but I didn't let it drink as much as I should have, so I did it twice, but it didn't smoke a lot either time (considering it has 140k miles on it........I was going to do it a third time, but the engine apparently didn't want me to cause it didn't want to run at all with the brake booster hose off, and it popped, so I quit. It even shot powersteering fluid out the hole in the cap the first time I did it! I had to cover up the hole so it wouldn't do it again. It did blow more smoke out when I reved it up.
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  #63  
Old 11-24-2006
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I let the brake booster line suck about 1/2-2/3 of the can and poured the rest in the oil fill. Worked awesome.
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  #64  
Old 11-24-2006
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i just used it in my vic.
put it in the vac line and left the engine for about 15 min.

then turned it on and reved it until the thick smog was done
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  #65  
Old 11-24-2006
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It's hard to get it to idle with a vaccum leak... Easiest way is to get someone to revv it up to about 1500 and then pull the plug, and then have the same person keeping it at about 2000 rpm so it won't die on you... Then let it suck up 1/2 a can and then- this is important - have the other person stop revving it while you keep on pouring Seafoam in, so that the engine chokes and dies. Wait 15 minutes and then - even more important, drive the HELL of it. Seriously, drive it like you stole it. Get on the highway and go 120 (as safely as possible), peel out, just do as much as possible to get the engine as hot as possible as quickly as possible.


I swear by Seamfoam, it's like god juice for trucks.
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  #66  
Old 11-25-2006
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Both Ford, Mopar, and GM have offered what they refer to a Top engine cleaners with very similar contents.
Pale Oil, Naphtha (read: Lighter Fluid), and Isopropyl alcohol. Naphtha is a common ingredient in many carb and fuel injection cleaners. I would be very careful when adding this via a vaccum line, too much and you could easily hydro lock the engine and posibly to damage. I haven't used the Sea Foam Brand but have used each of the OEm cleaners with good results, but I wouldn't use it unless I was convinced that carbon was my problem.

Years ago we used to use this type of cleaner to clean out engines that had severe carbon build up, we would actually pour it into the carb while the engine was running at a fast idle, then let the engine idle and stall on the rich mixture and let what was in the intake soak for a bit, then restart and finish the can at a higher idle until it was gone, then we ran it till the smoke cleared. This was common treatment on some of the old larger V8's in the smog laden years. It worked well, but an oil change was inline imediately after to remove any solvent that got past the rings or valve guides. It was good for cleaning the carbon residue from the back of the intake valves as well as cleaning the combustion chambers.
I often had my doubts though whether or not it was all the solvent doing the work or the simple fact that any cool liquid would break up the carbon just the same. Old timers used to use water to de-carbonize an engine, it worked just the same, it has sort of the same effect on carbon, sort of a combination of a steam cleaning action and temperature shock all combined.
Water injection is also still used to cool cylinder temps on some turbo charged engines to reduce pinging. It also has some compression adding effects as well since it's an inert added volume in the combustion chamber.


See this link,

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=283211

As far as cleaning injectors, I prefer using the 3M cleaning sytem, it requires a special hose, a return line block off and uses a disposable can of solvent. This has proven to be the best system I've found for cleaning injectors, the return hose gets blocked off and the fuel pump must be disabled. The vehicle will run off the pressurized can of cleaner for about 30 minutes or so at idle. I often let it runa bit, then shut it off and restart the engine after a few minutes to allow the solvent some soaking time in the injector circuit. This procedure usually makes a very noticable difference in how the engine runs. There are several brands that are similar but I have had the best luck with the 3M brand.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-58050.html
(I adapted mine to work with an OTC fuel adapter).
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7272.html

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mmm8912c.html
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