Seafoam In Rangers
Seafoam In Rangers
Does anyone have any experience or opinions on Seafoam being put in: Gas Tank, Throttle or crankcase?
I've used it on my motorcycle and in my explorer in the gas tank with positive results. Just curious about putting it in the Crankcase and Throttle. I feel like what doesn't burn up would potentially build up and cause more issues if mixed in the oil.
Previous owners of the 95' I bought did not maintain this vehicle at all and I've been fixing, replacing and cleaning as much as I can.
I've used it on my motorcycle and in my explorer in the gas tank with positive results. Just curious about putting it in the Crankcase and Throttle. I feel like what doesn't burn up would potentially build up and cause more issues if mixed in the oil.
Previous owners of the 95' I bought did not maintain this vehicle at all and I've been fixing, replacing and cleaning as much as I can.
I would limit it to the gas tank. Get some throttle body or MAF cleaner for your intake. I would just drain and refill the oil... Don't do anything to thin it out to try to clean it or it will end up in your bearings!
If the engine is so fouled up that that it's pinging and the lifters are noisy, it will do nothing.
The only cure for that is to physically clean the crap out of the engine, it's more of a preventative thing.
If you out it in your crank case, it will clean some carbon off, but as Rick said, it will thin your oil out _ you will have to change it afterwards.
The only cure for that is to physically clean the crap out of the engine, it's more of a preventative thing.
If you out it in your crank case, it will clean some carbon off, but as Rick said, it will thin your oil out _ you will have to change it afterwards.
I use Seafoam, or similar, injector cleaner in the gas tank once a year on all my fuel injected engines, this also helps soften/loosen carbon deposits on the pistons, heads/valves
Adding ATF or Seafoam to engine oil a 100miles or so before oil change will clean up some deposits but like Jeff said heavy gunk needs physical contact, elbow grease treatment, lol.
Never pour a liquid into the intake of a running engine, NEVER
If you think you are getting a build up of oil in the intake, clean PCV and vent hoses and replace PCV Valve.
Use a good quality oil brand.
The oil that coats the inside of the upper and lower intake comes from Blow-by
Every time a cylinder fires some of the very hot explosive gases that push down the piston "blow-by" the pistons rings, this is normal
The piston sides, rings and cylinder walls are coated in oil, the hot gases vaporized this oil, and this is where the oil vapor in the crankcase and valve covers come from.
The PCV(positive crankcase ventilation) system was added to suck blow-by gases and oil vapor out and then burned in the engine.
Prior to PCV systems there was just a tube on lower block or upper oil pan that vented blow-by and oil vapor out, this tube often had constant drip of oil.
Most of the oil vapor will cool enough to condense back to oil liquid before it gets to valve cover area, but as an engine gets older the rings don't seal as well so blow-by increases as does the oil vapor it creates.
Cheaper oil also vaporizes easier than name brand oil
The PCV system has the PCV Valve that uses engine vacuum to pull blow-by in to be burned, but it also has a Vent hose used to pull in Fresh Cooler air to help condense any oil vapor, the vent hose is connected to air filter housing or the air plenum(tube) that runs from air filter housing to the intake.
PCV Valve hose and vent hose both need to be clean and air tight
Shaking a PCV Valve and hearing the weight move inside it doesn't mean it is OK, change PCV Valve every 2 or 3 oil changes
Adding ATF or Seafoam to engine oil a 100miles or so before oil change will clean up some deposits but like Jeff said heavy gunk needs physical contact, elbow grease treatment, lol.
Never pour a liquid into the intake of a running engine, NEVER
If you think you are getting a build up of oil in the intake, clean PCV and vent hoses and replace PCV Valve.
Use a good quality oil brand.
The oil that coats the inside of the upper and lower intake comes from Blow-by
Every time a cylinder fires some of the very hot explosive gases that push down the piston "blow-by" the pistons rings, this is normal
The piston sides, rings and cylinder walls are coated in oil, the hot gases vaporized this oil, and this is where the oil vapor in the crankcase and valve covers come from.
The PCV(positive crankcase ventilation) system was added to suck blow-by gases and oil vapor out and then burned in the engine.
Prior to PCV systems there was just a tube on lower block or upper oil pan that vented blow-by and oil vapor out, this tube often had constant drip of oil.
Most of the oil vapor will cool enough to condense back to oil liquid before it gets to valve cover area, but as an engine gets older the rings don't seal as well so blow-by increases as does the oil vapor it creates.
Cheaper oil also vaporizes easier than name brand oil
The PCV system has the PCV Valve that uses engine vacuum to pull blow-by in to be burned, but it also has a Vent hose used to pull in Fresh Cooler air to help condense any oil vapor, the vent hose is connected to air filter housing or the air plenum(tube) that runs from air filter housing to the intake.
PCV Valve hose and vent hose both need to be clean and air tight
Shaking a PCV Valve and hearing the weight move inside it doesn't mean it is OK, change PCV Valve every 2 or 3 oil changes
Last edited by RonD; Nov 23, 2017 at 10:55 AM.
I saw this video a while ago, and I couldn't believe how much better his Ranger sounded after it was seafoam-ed:
My brother's old 94 2.3 pinged occasionally and looking back I wish we had tried seafoaming it. We tore the engine down when we junked it and found nothing wrong at all... just really grimey...
It seems like Seafoam has a lot of confidence in their stuff. I just put my 1984 military chevy away for the winter and treated the fuel system with seafoam... honestly driving it around the trying to run seafoam up through the engine, it seemed to be running noticeably better than the last time I drove it
My brother's old 94 2.3 pinged occasionally and looking back I wish we had tried seafoaming it. We tore the engine down when we junked it and found nothing wrong at all... just really grimey...
It seems like Seafoam has a lot of confidence in their stuff. I just put my 1984 military chevy away for the winter and treated the fuel system with seafoam... honestly driving it around the trying to run seafoam up through the engine, it seemed to be running noticeably better than the last time I drove it
Yeah, I've seen that video.
It always seems to work for the other guy...
My 2 cents on the top end racket are not the lifters, but the rock arms not getting oil and it would appear that the Sea Foam and or Lucas oil treatment did clean that up.
Oil is fed from the top of the lifter through the push rods, that's how the top end gets it's oil.
I still remain skeptical.
It always seems to work for the other guy...
My 2 cents on the top end racket are not the lifters, but the rock arms not getting oil and it would appear that the Sea Foam and or Lucas oil treatment did clean that up.
Oil is fed from the top of the lifter through the push rods, that's how the top end gets it's oil.
I still remain skeptical.
I alternate between the Sea foam treatment and Marvel Mystery Oil Top Cyl Lubricant treatment at every oil change (5K). With the Sea Foam on a hot engine I will pull the brake vacuum hose and pour about 1/3 of a can into it while it is running. Once I have done that I will turn off engine. Add 1/3 of the can to a half full fuel tank and the last third to the crankcase. Wait about 10 minutes and crank the engine and hold at 1500-1800 rpm for about 5 minutes until the white smoke clears from the exhaust. I will then drive the rest of the tank out with normal driving and then change the oil.
Withe the MM Oil when I have just over a half tank, I will add about a cup to the crankcase and another cup to the fuel tank. I will then drive the rest of the tank out with normal driving and then change the oil.
Between the two I believe it is cleaning most of the blow-by out of the intake. It has quietened the ticking noises coming from the engine. My truck has had Mobile1 since it had about 55k miles. It didn't get any top cyl cleaning treatments until it had 85k on it. It now has just over 125k.
Withe the MM Oil when I have just over a half tank, I will add about a cup to the crankcase and another cup to the fuel tank. I will then drive the rest of the tank out with normal driving and then change the oil.
Between the two I believe it is cleaning most of the blow-by out of the intake. It has quietened the ticking noises coming from the engine. My truck has had Mobile1 since it had about 55k miles. It didn't get any top cyl cleaning treatments until it had 85k on it. It now has just over 125k.
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