i was looking on ebay for some stuff when i came across these bad boys, but there for a chevy. anyone know if they make them for rangers of maybe in someway we can mod them to fit?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...QQcmdZViewItem

 

they do have them... http://www.airbagit-store.com/produc...t.asp&ID=89820

 

Are these difficult to install?

 

just replaceing thats it shouldnt be hard at all....did it on a z-71 in about 1 1/2 hours

 

"TORSION KEYWAYS allow you to crank UP/DOWN your torsion bars 2-3 inches more than the stock adjusters. For use on all 2x4 and 4x4 torsion front ends."

 

You might want to contact D about this. He is working on a good deal on drop keys right now and might be able to do lift keys if there is enough interest. Just be aware that lifting via stock torsion bars can cause a rough ride, increased ball joint wear and premature sacking of the torsion bars. You will also need to check/correct camber and toe in if you lift it much.

 

the way theyre saying it, it jsut sounds like its a wrench thats always on...

 

pretty much they just allow you to get the 2 inches we get by cranking but not putting all the stress on them..and allow for more so 2 inches would be like our stock bars and 4 inches is like our t-bar crank.. how the guy at Austins Offroad Fabs explained it to me

 

Yeah, for some reason I thought it would eliminate the binding that might occur with over-cranking.

 

yeah thats all that happens takes off less pressure

 

How much more lift would you get w. these things if any @ all?

Brenton

 

It's exactly the same as cranking, only more so. Any lift by the torsion bars is limited by the front suspension travel (front lift is limited by the shock travel) so you can only get as much lift as they will allow. I seriously doubt that there is a full 4" to be gained unless the torsion bars are already sacked out and the truck is sitting lower than when it was new.

Once again, going to the max is very hard on the ball joints, which are not very robust even at the stock adjustment. It also forces the shocks to top out much more. You can expect to replace front suspension components more often with a torsion lift. Tires, too, especially if you don't attempt to correct the static alignment.

 

yeah i doubt theres a full 4" also but hey its a better solution to cranking your bars up 2" like everyone does

 

Actually, it is not better. The keys also "crank up" the bars by reindexing them. All of the negative points of T-bar cranking are still there but you would then also have the option to crank them on top of the reindexing. This makes the potential for problems even worse.

Cranking the adjusters and/or reindexing the keys is not a true lift. All it does is push the equilibrium position of the suspension to a different location within the stock wheel travel. Reindexed lift keys just give your adjustment bolts the potential to exceed the adjustment that can be done with the stock keys.

 

damn it i want 1! lol

 

Hey, Bob knows...

Where is Austin's Offroad fabs?? Anywhere around here??

 

you could always put in a longer bolt for the torsion bars

 

very bad idea!enless u get grade 8 bolts. i had a hard to findng the right ones!i striped my factory torsin bar bolts and instead of goin to ford and gettin the right ones i did it the cheap way and went to the hardware store.all the threads striped of the bolts and when it did that my tire mashed my fender!

 

I understand you Bob.

 

you did a body lift right? use the smaller bed bolts that were the originals. Guy at work has had his like this for 6 months, no problem. He has atleast 3 inches of lift from the torison bars, it gave him about another inch or so. I'm doing it to mine as soon as i clean out my truck to find 1 other bolt.