today I changed the thermostat and flushed the system out using a hose to get all the rust out the block, anyways after putting it all together and running it I flushed the hose water out a second time through the petcock which was barely draining coming out slowly or dripping so I let it do its thing overnight and put antifreeze in it and it only took one bottle of coolant?? why is it doing this and on a side note my temperature gauge doesn't rise up to the middle operating temp after replacing the thermostat?? could the previous owner have just put a headgasket/stop leak additive in there and that's why it's a slow drain and won't really take more than a bottle of coolant?

 

Remove either heater hose at the firewall, that will allow air IN to the engine side of thermostat and allow coolant/water to drain out

Also refill with heater hose still removed, this allows the air OUT of the engine side of thermostat, when coolant/water starts to come out of hose and core put hose back on

Bottom of radiators is where sediment builds up so often clogs the drain
You can remove the drain fitting and use a pipe cleaner type wire to try and clean it out for better draining
I usually drain coolant by removing the lower radiator hose, radiator end, loosen clamp first and put pans down where coolant is coming down, then twist the hose and it will drain faster, but may pop off so be aware, lol

You don't mention the year or engine size?
The 2.3l Limas(1983-1997) have the dash temp gauge sender in the rear of engine so often shows a lower temp on the gauge than other engine that have the sender by upper radiator hose

 

Yes, I've also already flushed the heater core and got alot of rust out so that must be the blockage at the petcock. it's a 93 4.0L ohv, ever since I got it the temp gauge never got up to operating temp but I assumed it was because I never drove it more than around town for a couple minutes and ignored it. additionally I forgot to mention it but I also noticed someone was already in there as two of three thermostat cover bolts were replaced and it had a somewhat shiny thermostat but I still swapped it out because it was a pain to open.

 

Removing the heater hose at the firewall is to release air pressure that can prevent the heads and block from draining or refilling
i.e. if you put your finger over the end of a straw that's in a drink, you can lift the straw out of the drink and the fluid says in the straw, because the air pressure in the straw under your finger is holding it in, remove finger and fluid drains out
Put finger back on the top of the straw and put straw back in the drink, straw stay empty, doesn't refill because air pressure in the straw under your finger is holding it out, remove finger and straw refills
Engine is the same as the straw, as it will hold fluid in from air pressure when trying to drain it, and prevent refilling all the way because of air pressure, removing a heater hose is "releasing your finger", lol


The 4.0l OHV should get up to operating temp(just below 1/2 on gauge) in summer within 4-5min of driving, 6 to 8min in winter depending on outside temp

Check your fan clutch
Cold engine, been sitting 6 hours or more
Open hood and try to spin fan blade, should be tight, can be moved but not spun
Start engine, count to 20, shut off engine
Spin fan again should be easy to spin
If not then clutch is locked full time, called "failsafe" mode to prevent overheating, but also slows regular heating up to operating temp

 

That's a good way of describing it thanks, I'll check the fan