Scratching my head on this one. Purchased a used '03 Ranger 4x4 FX

I know some things have been done to it, the trim around the AC vents / radio / AC controls is Tan instead of black to match everything else. I'm wondering if they swapped it out with something that wasn't quite the correct replacement. It appears to function fine except... when I select the vent / floor to the right of off ( one o'clock ) I get AC!

Now don't get me wrong, I like having a little cool air on my tootsies, but that SHOULD be a vent position.

Does anybody have an electrical diagram for the '03 AC Mode switch?

Ideally I would leave it in place and put a disable switch in so I can have AC or vent in that position.

 

Doesn't read like an electrical issue, but here is the wiring for 2003 AC

Vent controls are vacuum activated and it reads like they reversed a vacuum hose on the Climate Control panel

Blend Door is the only electrical door, but that is for temp control only

Good read here on 2003 Explorer vacuum controls: 2003 Ford Explorer heater problems.

They call the devices that move the vent doors "vacuum motors" they are not electric of course but the word "motor" can be confusing

 

Above 40 degrees the air conditioner comes on in that position. Only floor and top vent position will not turn on AC

 

Interesting. Since the truck doesn't have an outside temp sensor / display I'm wondering where it would pick up the temp reading.

 

All fuel injected vehicles have outside air temp sensor, it is needed for the air/fuel mix.
But not sure it is used for Climate Control, it very well could be used, as AC and Air Temp are both available to use and control in 2003 Ranger computer
Coolant temp sensor(ECT) is used to shut off AC if engine starts to overheat, so not a stretch to think air temp may also be used

It is called the IAT(intake air temp) sensor

 

Will have to do some digging. I was going to try and put the overhead console with outside temp in from an Explorer or Mountaineer. Wonder if it would pick up that temp or if I would still need to run wire for an external sensor. Actually I answered my own question. My '05 F-150 has the outside temp on the dash and it has an independent temp sensor, had to replace it recently.

Ah well, it's just mopre wire to run...

 

M o d e s e l e c t o r c o n t r o l Controls the direction of the airflow to the inside of the vehicle.
The air conditioning compressor will operate in all modes except and . However, the air conditioning will only function if the outside temperature is about 10°C (50°F) or above. Since the air conditioner removes considerable moisture from the air during operation, it is normal if clear water drips on the ground under the air conditioner drain while the system is working and even after you have stopped the vehicle. Under normal conditions, your vehicle’s climate control system should be left in any position other than MAX A/C or OFF when the vehicle is parked. This allows the vehicle to “breathe” through the outside air inlet duct. • MAX A/C-Uses recirculated air to cool the vehicle. MAX A/C is noisier than A/C but more economical and will cool the inside of the vehicle faster. Airflow will be from the instrument panel registers. This mode can also be used to prevent undesirable odors from entering the vehicle. • A/C-Uses outside air to cool the vehicle. It is quieter than MAX A/C but not as economical. Airflow will be from the instrument panel registers. • (Vent)-Distributes outside air through the instrument panel registers. However, the air will not be cooled below the outside temperature because the air conditioning does not operate in this mode. • OFF-Outside air is shut out and the fan will not operate. For short periods of time only, use this mode to prevent undesirable odors from entering the vehicle.
From Ranger Owners manual. I had a 2002 and have a 2010. Both operate the same. No changes were made. And there are temp sensors. That selection I have used in the winter and AC does not come on till over 40 degrees

 

I copied and pasted it did not show pictures for 1st sentence =except seat picture forair to feet/ floor and seat picture air to head

 

I'll have to take a closer look at the owners manual. I could have sworn it said the dash / floor was a vent position, but it my just have said fresh air and I assumed it meant vent.

My other Rangers were both '98's and I could have sworn they both did the vent in that position. Either that or they both had defective switches and I just didn't realize it.

Either way all's good. I will definitely look at a installing a disable switch so I can do just fresh air on cooler days.

I may pick you guys' brains when I go to my next project. Want to put switch(s) in to keep the truck running when I shut it off with the key. Don't want to hassle with remote start, but want to let it run to warm up without having to worry about a ticket. The cops around here have gotten a bit aggressive with them but they can't write one for remote start vehicles running without a key in the ignition.

 

Fresh air or re-circulation on some models can be selected independently, it uses a vacuum motor.
But on other models MAX AC is the only way to close the Fresh air vent.
MAX AC is not a "colder setting" temp wise, or a faster fan setting, nor does compressor work any harder, lol.
It just closes the Fresh Air vent to recirculate already cooled air, and on some models it will also close a Heater Hose Valve in the engine bay, via vacuum valve



You need a Remote start setup for that, whether or not you use it for remote starting or not.
2003 Ranger has PATS(passive anti-theft system), which requires the correct PATS key in the ignition or fuel pump and fuel injectors won't come on for starting.

Ford Remote start system comes with an "in-line" PATS key duplicator, it mimics key ON PATS key test which allows starting.

You could see if a locksmith can modify your key cylinder so key can be pulled out after startup, PATS test is only done once when starting, there is not other test after engine is running, so key could be removed and you could exit vehicle and lock it with FOB leaving engine running.
BUT..............Remote starts have a few failsafes, like engine temp and often oil pressure, and even vibration sensors, and engine will shut off when a door is opened or truck is put into gear and go back to PATS protection, in case a thief breaks window to get into RUNNING vehicle
While leaving an engine running in a unattended Locked vehicle may seem safe from theft it's not and engine damage CAN occur, since no one is around to stop it

 

Not looking to switch fresh air, just the AC compressor so I can have just fresh air for dash and feet.

As for the ignition switch bypass thing, it's just to be able to duck back in and stay warm for a few minuets while the truck warms up. Usually just inside the door or window. My F-150 will let me lock the doors with the remote after stating to quasi satisfy the regulation, but a friend still got the ticket. The judge decided that even though the door was locked, with the key in it could still be stolen.

I'm aware of the PATS only checking on startup so it would only be over riding the ignition switch to keep the motor running after it had been started with the key and still have the heater fan on. I saw a post somewhere where a guy used a relay in line so that if the brake pedal was pushed it killed it just like a remote start would do without a key in the ignition.

Will have to find the ignition wiring to figure out where and how many switches I need, and where to put the relay. If I remember correctly the guy used either a SPDT or DPDT switch to act as a cut off as well. If the switch was flipped the other way it disabled the start even if you had the right key. He had a high dollar custom car and wanted an extra layer of security.

 

There is at least 4 wires in and 4 wires out of ignition switch that need to be connected for RUN(on) to work
I wouldn't even try to by-pass ignition switch that way, too many problems

Just look at pulling key out in RUN, way less complicated

 

Hmmm, will have to look at that. Would require modifying the lock, but since I am a part time locksmith that wouldn't be too much of a stretch. And it would be a whole lot less complicated. Thanks for the thought.

 

You also asked in a PM about Towing a 4x4 Ranger behind another vehicle, flat towing or 4 wheels down towing.

Any 4x4 Ranger CAN be towed this way, all Borg Warner(BW) 1350 or 1354 transfer cases have Neutral, it is just not a "shift position" you can select using the electric shift control.
Manual trans just needs to be left in 2WD and Neutral, so the Neutral shift kit is just for automatics

Ford hasn't made the Neutral Towing Kit since 2009, and the parts needed are just a button to select/call up Neutral on transfer case and an LED light confirming Neutral position is active, like the 4high and 4low lights do
The harder part is adding the Software to the system to get it to move the transfer case to Neutral position.

This is a shift motor rebuild thread that has pictures: How to: Rebuild 4X4 Shift Motor | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

If you scroll down you will see pic of the transfer case with motor off and the 3 "shift positions", 2WD(2H), 4H and 4L
Well Neutral is between 4H and 4L opposite 2H in the rotation.

Next pic down you see the contact wheel and then the contacts, this wheel and contacts "tells" the shift control module what "gear" the transfer case is in, so, for example, if contacts 1 and 4 are connected and 2 and 3 are open, the transfer case is in 2WD, if 2 and 4 are connected and 1 and 3 open then transfer case is in 4high, ect....

So shift controller moves motor until contacts are in the correct position, Neutral Kit software added Neutral to the controllers "positions" in memory.

Yes, the 2003 should be able to use the software, if you can find it.
Wire for button and light should be under steering column, it was pre-wired for it


The Shiftster is also another option, changes electric shift to manual shift transfer case
BUT, you have to get under the truck to shift from 2WD to 4WD or Neutral, so not convenient.
It is way more reliable than electric shift.

You do have to drill a Neutral detent on the plate, not sure Shiftster ever added that

 

That's what I've read on the 'kit', that it's just a light and the software load at the dealership. Wasn't aware of the need to add the detent, will have to remember that. Will get up under the dash and hunt for the connector next time. I'm in the middle of having the transmission rebuilt, the OD sprag went out. I wonder if the transmission shop could do the software download or if it's a dealer only item?

 

Detent is for the Shiftster, not the Kit/software

Wire should be Green

Software will be the key, and thats were the YEAR of the Ranger comes in, 2003 software may or may not be availalble, I know they had it for 2006 and up

Now the Shift motor is just a DC electric motor, so to get it to turn clockwise or counter-clockwise is just a matter of reversing + and -
Same as power window motors

And the contact wheel makes and breaks connections as the motor turns the shift rod in the transfer case
So you could build your own manual motor control to turn the motor to Neutral position, with a light that comes on when contacts are in the correct position for Neutral
You would have to test the 4 contacts to see which ones are closed and which are open ONLY in Neutral, there would be a Neutral ONLY pattern or Ford couldn't have done it

2003 4WD wiring here, Yellow and Orange wires move the motor
Other 5 wires are the contacts, 1 common and 4 that are either open or closed connecting to Common wire

 

From what I've seen on some of the RV forums the shift motor already has the sensor in the right place for Neutral and it's merely a proper sequence of events that tells the new software to stop at the Neutral position instead of continuing on and illuminates the new indicator light momentarily as it does. If I remember correctly it's a brake and shift to neutral sequence with the key in the correct position.

Supposedly you can wire up the light and test it without the new software. It will pass the Neutral position between stops going around the clock between 4H and 4L. That would imply the control motor only goes one direction and would in turn make sense with that pic from the Explorer forum showing the stops.

Going to hunt for the unused green connector up by the steering column next time and test it out. No sense in getting the software download if the wiring isn't there.

 

No, the shift motor has to go in both directions
The transfer case shift rod can't spin 360 degrees, from 2wd it can go counter-clockwise 270deg to 4L, but no farther, it then has to be moved back in opposite direction(clockwise) 270deg to get back to 2wd

The software "tells" the controller "where" Neutral is, the "where" is the Contact Pattern, it moves motor until that contact pattern is achieved.

The Contact patterns are what turns on the 4High and 4Low lights.
When you are in 2WD and select 4high the 4high light doesn't pop on at that second, motor has to move to correct Contact pattern and THEN the 4high light comes on, 4low would take a bit longer because motor has to turn longer, then 4low light would come on
If 4WD lights flash then either motor isn't moving or contacts are not changing, so Controller stops sending power to motor because it is "lost"

So you do need the software, you don't necessarily "need" the Neutral light, but it is nice to have the visual confirmation that transfer case shift rod is in Neutral position

And not having a 2WD light has always been a sore point with me, I get that the bulb would burn out because its almost always in 2WD, but still a confirmation for 2WD at the time of shift would be nice, to KNOW you are out of 4WD, maybe a couple of flashes to indicate 2WD at start up, after the bulb test

 

In my 03 FX4, I get heat in winter and AC in summer in floor / vent mode. Has always done that. My 04 Mustang, I can not get Ac in the floor / vent mode (Ford mechanic told me it's how the GEM module is programed ??)

 

Just got it, so haven't tried the heat when in floor vent. Going to take a closer look at the switch wiring and see about putting in a disable switch to get fresh air, but who knows. Going to look at drilling a hole in the bottom of the trim ring and the control unit to put a little light down on the hump. Not sure if it will work or not, it's just an idea right now.

 

Air direction is selected by Vacuum, no GEM involved

If there is a vacuum leak then DEFROST vents are the only ones that have air flow

The switch on the dash sends vacuum to "vacuum motors", they are just valves that pull open a door in the dash and then close that door when there is no vacuum.

There are 3 to 5 of these vacuum motors, depending on model

If you have a leak in a vacuum motor or its hose then when you select that direction all the vacuum is gone to air would come out Defrost vents

I.E. you select Floor, and air comes out Defrost
You select Panel and it works
You select defrost and it works
So Floor vacuum motor or hose has a leak

If Defrost is the only thing that works then main vacuum hose into the cab is leaking

 

Not looking to change the air flow, only disable the compressor when in dash / floor mode.

 

Unless AC is on compressor is off.

Compressor does need to run if Defrost vent is selected or windshield can fog up instead of unfog.

Fresh air door is vacuum activated, should be by glove box right side

 

Floor / dash is already fresh air. Just going to disable the AC on nice days when AC, and the pull on the engine, is not necessary.

 

Easy to do. Just install an on-off switch in the violet (purple) wire that goes to the back of the HVAC controls. Turning it off will disable the AC compressor in ALL modes. turning it on returns to the factory compressor logic which is:


AC compressor operation allowed:
Max AC
AC
Vent/Floor
Floor/Defrost
Defrost

AC compressor operation not allowed:
Vent only
Floor only
Off

The "purple wire mod" should work on any 95~2006 Ranger.