03 Ranger Elec. Issues - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 03-08-2011
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03 Ranger Elec. Issues

Hey all, I have poured through forums trying to find some info on my problem with mixed results, so I'm hoping to get some help here. I got an 03 Ranger XLT with some electrical issues: the interior lights do not work at all, the wiper and washer do not work, and the SRS is faulted (with an annoying chime that will occasionaly keep chiming). The airbag system doesnt bother me too much, but its almost rainy season (and love bug), which requires my wipers and fluid. I have done what troubleshooting I can checking the relays and fuses, but have yet to come across an actual wiring diagram for my truck. The haynes manual was a waste of money because of what pitiful wiring diagrams they had, were not even for my truck. From what I have read around, no elec. wiring diagram exists for the 03', which I find hard to believe. I can throw 12V at the wipers and get em to move, and the relays/fuses check out, but cant get a trigger from the switch. Are the wipers tied to the ECM? As far as the dome lights im at a lost because I cant find anywhere that lists the relay for them, or a module....so I dont know if my conditions are related or not. I hate throwing parts at something I cant pinpoint; if anyone can help me out here id be much obliged. Thanks!
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Old 03-08-2011
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I would really look for a water leak around the fuse box in the pass kick panel. I have a leak there I havent taken time to find because I figured out how to manage it. Then mine leaks the radio quits when you put it in drive or reverse, put it in p or n and it comes back on. Only if it rains hard, So I started parking it nose down in heavy rain and it hasnt done it since. I know thats what was happpening cause I dont have carpet just a mat and I saw water on the mat coming out from under the kickpanel when it was doing it.
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Old 03-08-2011
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test your switch for the wipers those are bad to crap out
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Old 03-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04XLTFX4 View Post
I would really look for a water leak around the fuse box in the pass kick panel.
That's a good suggestion for 2004+ but that fuse panel does not exist in 2003 and earlier Rangers.

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Originally Posted by Biggsmall View Post
From what I have read around, no elec. wiring diagram exists for the 03', which I find hard to believe.
The best available is a complete book of schematics called the 2003 Ranger Wiring Manual, distributed to every Ford dealer service department. Prices vary widely but, if you watch for awhile, you should be able to get a good used one for about $10 on eBay.

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Originally Posted by Biggsmall View Post
Are the wipers tied to the ECM?
No, they are controlled by the Generic Electronic Module inside the dash to the left of the radio. Same for the dome lights. The only connection between the Restraints Module and the GEM is the wire for the SRS warning tone generated in the GEM.

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Originally Posted by Biggsmall View Post
(with an annoying chime that will occasionaly keep chiming).
Warning chime: there are 2 that I can think of that repeat periodically while driving. Which is it?
  • Rapid chime: seat belt disconnected warning
  • Low, slow 5x5 beep: Restraints warning that sounds in place of the SRS indicator light when the bulb circuit is faulted. If you repair the problem with the bulb circuit (usually the bulb in the cluster), the indicator will flash out a 2-digit trouble code that you can use for SRS diagnostics.
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Originally Posted by Biggsmall View Post
I got an 03 Ranger XLT with some electrical issues: the interior lights do not work at all, the wiper and washer do not work, and the SRS is faulted.
The problem here is that you have a group of symptoms which may or may not be related. Here are a few quick items that I would check:
  • Check fuses 11,20,26 in the dash fuse panel. If the fuses are OK, pull them all out (noting position and rating) and leave them out for a few minutes, then reinstall. This should reinitialize the GEM.
  • Check the electrical connector to the seat belt / tensioner under each seat. Even if they are connected, open each one, clean it and reassemble with dielectric grease on the pins.
  • Check the bolted ground point under the driver side kick panel.
.
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Old 03-08-2011
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yea, your right my bad, I forgot.
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Old 03-08-2011
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Thx for the info guys, just got home and will investigate further now that I have a few more avenues to pursure.
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Old 03-08-2011
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Well after probing around for awhile, I'm still stuck at square one. I checked 11,20,26 fuses (with an ohmeter), and reset with no change. Checked both the harnesses under the seats, and made sure the ground strap was properly connected by the kick panel, and all checked out ok. For whats its worth, the SRS light is a 2X5 flash, but as rwenzig stated the GEM and SRS are only connected by the warning light. Oddly enough though, after I had posted last night I started the truck up in the morn and the wiper cycled once...first time ive ever seen it move (other than putting 12v to it). So w/o a wiring diagram, im still kind of stuck. I'm leaning more towards the GEM here as opposed to the switch, only because both dome lights and wipers/washer are out at same time. Id hate to pull the damn thing all the way out, swap it out only to find its not the problem.... any other suggestions?
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Old 03-08-2011
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Restraints Code 2-5 says that there is a problem with the Passenger Airbag Deactivation switch. Interestingly, the PAD switch uses the same ground point as the GEM which you already checked. Other than that, there is no apparent connection between the GEM and the PAD switch.
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Old 03-09-2011
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Well I pulled the PAD switch out, verified ground was present on the harness. Only thing I could find wrong was the bulb that illuminates when in the off position. I cut the bulb out and jumpered it out. Now the SRS flashes 2-7, but still no wipers/washers/dome lights. And the troubleshooting continues...
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Old 03-09-2011
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the 27 code is because you removed the light that comes on when the PAD is in the off position
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Old 03-09-2011
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Well I removed the light because it was bad (open). Jumpering the light should act as if the light is still there, considering the filament is next to zero ohms. Im guessing the conditions I have are not very common (at least grouped all together), so I have a feeling im going to have to buy the damn wiring book on ebay (which I will share as a PDF here). Unfortunately it has started the rain season here in FL, so I'm running a manual on/off to the damn wiper motor until I can figure it out...times like these when I appreciate the simplicity of old american cars w/o computers.
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Old 03-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggsmall View Post
Well I removed the light because it was bad (open). Jumpering the light should act as if the light is still there, considering the filament is next to zero ohms.
That won't work. In addition to the bulb's resistance, there is another resistor in series inside the module. The voltage drops in steps at each resistance, resulting in an intermediate voltage between supply voltage and ground. Removing the bulb or jumpering across the bulb takes the monitored voltage out of its acceptable range. This is a common way for self diagnostics to check circuits for shorts and opens.

It is possible to solder a small bulb of the correct resistance in place of the original. It could also be done with the correct size resistor but why not make the PAD indicator work again? Search this site for "code 2-7" for a bulb part number.
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Old 03-29-2011
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Well I finally resolved all my electrical issues that I was having. Thanks Bob for all your help, definately appreciated! I ended up pulling a PADS switch off of an 02' ranger in the boneyard for $10, pulled the card out and put it in my PADS box, plugged it in and good to go - no more airbag light. I measured the resistance of the bulb, approx 12-13ohms, for anyone who wants to jump the light out.
As for the wiper/washer/dome lights not working, after a couple hours of mind numbing troubleshooting w/o a damn schematic, I eliminated every known possibility except the G.E.M. I got one off the same 02' Ranger in the boneyard, which I was skeptical of because it was from diff year/package/engine, but for $20 I took my chances and it paid off; wipers/washer/dome lights work great now. Ive read a few threads stating that the GEM must be from the same year and engine, but the one I got appears to be working fine with no faults. The only difference between the numbers was my original GEM had AFP stamped next to the bardcode, and the one I replaced it with has AF stamped instead. Anyway, hope this may save someone the headache it caused me, thanks guys!
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