So I just got this (new to me) 1990 ford ranger with the 3.0 (2wd manual) and the first two days I drove it, it did wonderful, except the headlights didn’t work. I plug them in and everything went to hell. The truck now won’t start. The ignition will not turn the truck over, only by jumping the solenoid can I do this. The truck tries to turn over but will not start. So I unhooked that noisy starter to see if the fuel pump was coming on and it’s not. If my ignition is on and I jump the solenoid 2 major things happen. #1 the fuel pump will kick on for about 2 seconds then back off. #2 the eec relay will click. I have replaced all fuses in the fuse box and the relays. Bad ground? Bad EEC? Bad truck LOL. Any help is appreciated. (Oh I forgot to mention, the only power I have now is to the windshield wipers when turn the ignition on.

 

Suspect a bad battery.

• What is the voltage at the battery terminals?
• What is it with the truck not running,but the headlights turned on?
• Have you cleaned and greased the battery terminals and the connectors?
• Have you cleaned and reattached the main grounding strap?

Also, are any engine codes thrown?

 

voltage of battery fully charged is 12.6, the battery isn’t a concern, I use it in my other ranger and I’ve tried with my battery charger hooked to it. The headlights do nothing now but they worked for about a day. I have cleaned and re ground the main ground strap but it is connected to the top of my intake to the bottom of my block then ran to my frame, is this correct??? Also, yes all new wires from the starter to solenoid and grounds. And finally the only light on is my rear anti lock. It’s almost as if my fuel pump is only engaged through my solenoid. I can start the truck but only briefly by jumping the solenoid. I can not start it with the key but I have to have the key engaged to energize the system. Also if I unhook the “s” from my solenoid this has no affect. The system is still engergized with the key on. Very strange.

 

Fuel pump should only run for 2 seconds with key on, its a safety thing
But should run 2 seconds each time key is turned off and then back on

Battery's larger negative cable should run to a Starter motor bolt(holds starter to bell housing), but can be run to engine block, this is the ground for starter and alternator, biggest AMP user and sender
There should be a ground strap on the rear of engine's head, it runs to firewall bolt, often wiper motor bolt, that's the main ground for ALL the cab electrics, needs to be there
Also a ground to frame for tail lights and Park lights
Also a ground to Rad support, head lights and horn

No on a ground strap from upper intake to block, no reason for that, block and intake are not plastic they are metal and bolted together with metal bolts
Cab needs a good ground for cab/dash lights to work

1990 Starter relay(solenoid) on inner fender is also the 12v distribution point for the whole truck
Battery positive has a short larger cable to one larger post on this relay, it will have several other wires connected with it on that one post, thats the 12v distribution
The other larger post on this relay will have ONE WIRE, and only 1 wire, to starter motor

Yes, "S" post will have one smaller wire, red/blue usually, it should only have 12v when key is turned to START, it activates this relay IF its grounded, relay is Grounded to metal inner fender with bolts, but inner fender needs to be grounded to battery negative as well, check that it is

Red/blue wire on "S" post gets 12v from a "Neutral switch", manual or automatic have different types of switches

Ignition switch in START(12v out)--------------------neutral switch-------------------------------------"S" post on relay

 

Hi I have a 96 ranger with a 3.0. My truck died on me on me while driving. It started out making multiple clicking noises. Now it's just one click and once in awhile the engine tries to turn over but real slow. I have replace the starter, starter solenoid, battery, negative cable cause it was damaged and the ignition switch and still just one click.

 

Welcome to the forum

You may have lost the oil pump and spun a main bearing
So not an electrical issue at all

Have you tried turning the engine manually, using socket wrench on the crank pulley, should turn but will get hard on each compression stroke, 3 per 1 full turn of crank
You can pull out all 6 spark plugs and engine should spin easily with no compression

As for possible electrical issue
If alternator stopped working, Battery Light on dash would have come on, and after 30min or so of driving battery would be drained and no more spark or fuel pump, so engine would die
Was Battery Light on for awhile?

Battery is hooked to starter by large Positive cable and large negative cable
No computer or relays involved
Except for the Starter Relay on the inner fender, often called starter solenoid, has 2 large posts and one smaller post
Make sure these connection are clean

 

I believe the issue to be a ground. After wiggling some wires around I got the truck to start and run for about 30 foot then it rattled to a stop. I believe I’ve got a corroded or loose ground somewhere so I’m gonna start going through and re sanding and replacing grounds where is needed. Thanks

 

Just so you know, once the engine is running the alternator powers everything, battery is not used

It could be bad ground from engine to cab or engine to inner fender, alternator is bolted to engine so has a good ground

 

there is a ground on the inner fender with a wire going to frame and another wire that goes to a plug which appear to run back to my battery and into my wiring harness. Is this correct? I’ve found the one on the back of the block that is attached to the wiper bolt. No ground to rad support?? I’ve looked high and low but no ground to rad support, where does it connect to and from if you know? The truck will now start intermittently but I’ve re attached and wiggled and cleaned so many things I don’t know where I made progress at. Still no power to cab but the truck will start? Makes no sense. Thanks for any help it is appreciated.

 

Usually inner fender ground has a short wire to Rad support
Rad support ground is for headlights and horn, if they work then they have a good ground

In engine fuse box there should be a 60amp fuse, #10 if they are numbered, it has a Yellow wire out to ignition switch under steering column, above brake pedal
This ONE Yellow wire powers all the Cab electrics when key is on

 

thank you! After sanding and reconnecting all of my grounds the truck runs GREAT. I have to unhook my battery as something is draining the battery overnight but at least I know the thing runs.