So i Have a 1996 ford ranger 2,3 5spd but its issue currently i currently have is that the slave cylinder leaks a ton of dot 3 so i just top it off every time i drive it but its kind of getting old
when it gets low the clutch throw is like 1 inch of the floor and its hard to shift and wont go in reverse till i add fluid
how hard is it to change the slave out
also my fuel gauge doesn't work correctly and floats around near 1\2 to 3\4 of a tank even when you fill it to the brim
the odometer also does not work
the speedometer is accurate and working
but the odometer is stuck at 124,659

 

Welcome to the forum

You will need to pull back/off the transmission to change the slave, I would also replace the clutch parts at this time as well, use a self-adjusting pressure plate(SAC) if you do

1995 and up Rangers use electric speedometer and odometer, each has its own electric motor, but both share one speed "signal" wire
A common issue if odometer stops is the plastic worm gear drive
Google: 1996 ford ranger odometer not working

While cluster is out you can test the Fuel level wire, yellow/white wire on pin 12 of the 12 pin connector
Need an OHM meter
Empty tank should read 16ohms
Full tank 158ohms
So you should see between those two numbers, then rock the truck so gas in the tank sloshes around, ohms should go up and down as the float in the tank goes up and down, if so then the wire, sender and float are OK
If gas gauge tops out at 1/2-3/4 but then starts to work OK when gas in the tank is actually below 1/2 then it probably is a float/sender issue in the gas tank

But if it always stays at 1/2-3/4, even when close to Empty then it is most likely the Anti-Slosh Module on the back of the cluster is the problem, its a separate module that plugs into a slot on the back of the cluster, seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/Mag...gauge/gr-8.JPG
Upper right, green circuit board

Google: 1996 Ford Ranger Anti-slosh module
Part number might be: F5ZF-14A608-BC


And/or............1996 thru 2003 Ranger instrument clusters are interchangeable, plug and play, so you can get a used cluster from one of these years and swap it out
Black or white face, tach or no tach, manual or automatic, are all interchangeable

Always replace the 6 bulbs that are used to light up the dash when cluster is out

Article here on removing the cluster: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...luster-lights/

 

ok how hard is it to remove the trans from the vehicle im 17 and have never done a manual ive only pulled out an auto

 

also i dont have a cluster with a rpm gauge so if i get one with a tach and plug it in will the rpm gauge work

 

Yes, all Rangers were pre-wired for a tach, so if cluster has a Tach it will work
Odd though, most manuals came with Tach

Easier than pulling out and reinstalling an automatic
You have an M5OD-R1 or M5R1, manual transmission, used in 2WD Ranger from 1988 thru 2011

You need to remove the shifter inside the cab, make sure its in Neutral when you remove it, do this first before hands get dirty, lol
Disconnect the clutch line going up to Master
Google: How To Disconnect and Connect Hydraulic Clutch Line on a Ford Ranger, F150, F250, Mazda Trucks
Watch the 4:36 video

1996 will still have the old speedometer cable hook up on the tail shaft housing, unplug its 2 wire sensor, thats the VSS(vehicle speed sensor)
Also unplug the the 2 wire connector for Reverse lights
These are all on the drivers side of transmission

Unhook battery negative cable, if you haven't already
Remove starter motor

Transmission is now ready to be unbolted from the engine and frame
On a 4cyl Ranger you shouldn't need to unbolt the exhaust like on a V6, but may need to unbolt a hanger so you can move the back of engine down, just keep an eye out
Put jack under trans, and lift it a bit
Remove the transmission rear support and its crossbar
Lower trans down a bit and support the back of the engine
You need long extensions to remove the upper bolts from bell housing
Not sure on the 2.3l but the 6 bell housing bolts may be different lengths, so keep track of that
Once the bolts are out a couple of wiggles should get transmission lose from its alignment dowels
Input shaft should slide out of the pilot bearing and then the clutch disc as transmission is pulled back

 

ok thank you for all the infotmation
ill get er done as soon as i can
ill try and go over to my buddies shop that has a lift
if not in my driveway
i might have to do more to the exhaust
as its not stock
this was my great uncles truck and it seems to have headers and a performance exhaust with a gibson muffler that had the hanger break so right now its straight piped[its way to loud]

 

i aggree that its odd it dont have a tach
how did you know when to shift when it was super quiet
i go by ear
ive done it by feel to but it seems to lug the engine or over rev