I'm dealing with a 1996 Regular cab 2.3L 5speed ranger.

The (current) issue is that I don't seem to have any functional gauges. All the warning lights, and dash illumination seem to work fine. Speedometer, Fuel, Temp, and Oil all seem to be non-functional.

I have little to no history on this truck, other than that I received it non-running and have been fixing ALOT of problems left by the PO.

What I've tried so far:
Checked all fuses, both in dash and under hood with a multimeter. Good power on both sides of all fuses.
Replaced the VSS with a junkyard one. Mostly because I accidently smooshed the end of the connector a bit in an unrelated repair.
Checked the wiring at the gauge cluster plug-ins and found Good 12v and ground on the red with white stripe (+) wires and black (-) wires.
Jacked up the rear end, and checked the VSS wires with the driveline running and in gear. I got a AC signal that increases with speed. (Checked at the gauge cluster plug ins)
Replaced the gauge cluster with a 1997 unit. No change. Took it back to the Junkyard.
Got a 2000 (?) gauge clust with tach (from an automatic, but that shouldn't matter) and installed it. Still no gauges working EXCEPT the tach works fine. (Also some of the lights are in the wrong spot. For ex. the check engine light now reads check suspension, but I believe this is irrelevant.)
Pulled the gauge cluster out, but left it hooked up. Checked the three terminals on the back of the speedo head where they connect to the flexible circuit board. I have 12v, ground, an AC signal (when checked against the ground, with driveline turning).

As you can see, I've been focusing on the Speedometer, mostly just to try and keep the process focused somewhat. I suppose I could have had 3 bad speedometers in a row, but that seems unlikely, and even more so when you add in all the other gauges being equally bad.

Is there something I've missed? I just don't understand how the speedometer could not work when proveded with +, -, and signal right at the back of the head unit, on multiple units.

I could go through and try to test the other gauges out of the vehicle to prove / disprove their functionality. If I can't come up with any other suggestions, then that's probably the only route left open to me. I'm really really hoping someone can point me in a more profitable direction.

And thanks in advance for any help you might have to give!

 

1996 Cluster wiring below

There are 3 fuse you need to test with key off and then key on, all 3 are in Cab fuse box, i.e. pull out the fuse and use a volt meter to see if one of its contacts has 12volts
Fuse 25 should have 12volts all the time
Fuses 11 and 15 have 12v with key on

If all these have 12v then you will need to pull the cluster and check if their wires also have 12volt, AND TEST THE GROUND wires on the clusters connectors, bad ground is exactly the same as no 12volts

 

Yup, already done it. I have power and ground everywhere I should. Fuses and Inst cluster connector, and at the gauges themselves.

 

No you don't or cluster would work, especially if you have tried another cluster, so back to square one

Occam's Razor, simplest reason is usually the right one

There are 4 gauges
Temp
Oil
Fuel
Volts

Which ones are not working?

Volts is just Key on 12v from fuse 11
That also powers Oil pressure gauge

Oil Pressure and Temp gauges use Ground as their trigger/signals

Oil pressure Switch grounds the gauge when engine is running, find that switch and unplug its wire(green/white wire) and ground that wire, turn on the key and gauge should go up, 1/3 to 1/2 is normal, if that works replace the switch, its bad
If it doesn't work then that wire to cluster is bad

Temp gauge is the same but uses a Sender, ONE red/white wire on this sender, unplug that wire, Ground that wire, turn on the key, Temp gauge should go all the way up to HOT
If so replace sender(get a sender NOT a sensor)
If gauge does not go up to HOT then wire is bad
(there is a temp sensor, always TWO wires, computer only)

Gas gauge uses an Anti-slosh Module on the back of the cluster, common failure on Fords, its a separate circuit board that can be pulled out and replaced or by-passed
Gas gauge uses a Yellow/white wire from the sender in the gas tank to pin 12 on C215, use an OHM Meter from this wire to Cab ground
Should see 16ohms to 160 ohms if sender is OK
16ohms is EMPTY tank
160 ohms FULL tank
Rock the truck, should see OHMS change as gas in the tank sloshes around, float goes up and down
This is direct from the sender in the tank, so if you see correct OHMs but nothing on the gauge, change or by pass Anti-slosh module, Google it


Oil and Temp wires use that big round firewall connector under brake booster, long shot could be there is corrosion in that connector, there are about 60 wires there
You can pull out the one center bolt, engine bay side, and unplug this connector, then plug it back in, that cleans ALL the terminals
Then see oil and temp gauges work again

 

Thanksgiving happened. FInally got back on it.
First update. The temp and volt gauges are working. I didn't think they were. I'll blame the temp on a slow warm up, and I just flat missed the voltage working while dealing with everything else.
Second update. I finally got some new tires on it, and was able to get out on the highway. I now have a check engine light, P0500 (VSS problem).


I guess if I need to prove it, then that's what it takes. To that end I've shot a video that shows the speedo having 12V, ground, and AC signal.
Clearly the Speedo and the ECM aren't happy with something. The only clue I've found on my own is a single reference on the internet that I should have between .5 and 2 volts on the AC signal. I'm measuring in the millivolts. That said, I don't know for certain how many volts I should expect as one random source on the net isn't exactly conclusive. Still, best clue so far.

 

1996 will have a VSS sensor on the old speedometer cable hookup on tailshaft of transmission(2WD)

It has 2 wires
It reads the Driven gear as it spins when vehicle is moving
Looks like this if you pull it out: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...s_withgear.JPG
Gear is changeable to calibrate speedometer/odometer as needed

Yes, this is a Variable Reluctance(VR) sensors, that means it generates its own AC Voltage when gear is spinning, 0.5vAC(slow) to 8vAC(really fast)
But only when gear is spinning
You can pull it out and use a drill to spin it and test for AC Voltage

The AC Voltage is not what is used, just FYI
AC voltage is a Sine Wave, swings up and down, + to - voltage, with 0 volts in the center, these "waves" i.e. pulses, are the "speed signal", 8,000PPM(pulse per mile) is what Ford uses for calibration
And only the + half of the wave is used, one of the wires at the VSS is a Ground, test for that, the other wire is the speed signal that goes to dash, computer and cruise, if so equipped
These devices are already grounded so just need the "speed signal" pulses to work

If no Speedo and P500 that means both cluster and computer have no signal, that points to bad VSS or bad wire coming from VSS since they both share that wire