My girlfriend's 2001 2.5L Ranger has been having issues starting since she bought it last year. It almost always takes a few seconds of cranking the engine before it catches and the truck starts up. It also will idle just a little rough sometimes.

The first thing we did was get a new battery and take it to a mechanic for a check-up. He fixed a few things but the truck still had issues starting. Life got busy and the truck ran fine enough once you got it started.

A few month's later, we replaced the fuel pump. Seems like lots of rangers have trouble starting with a bad check valve and the symptoms sounded similar to ours. I think it started instantly only once before going back to its normal rough start.

Yesterday, my girlfriend said it felt real rough leaving work. About a mile down the road the truck stalled and wouldn't start again. We got it towed home to take a closer look.

I took the battery in. It had good charge but the cold cranking amps was low. Since it was under warranty, I was able to get a fresh one for free.

I installed the new battery and was able to get it to sorta start with gas but it just chuggs and dies within a few seconds (maybe 10 seconds max). The alternator voltage is reading fine and I'm willing to bet the starter is fine.

Any ideas?? My OBDII reader says 0 issues found but I don't think it's working properly. The check engine light is on, after all. Gonna borrow one from the Auto Parts store tomorrow. When I checked it in the past, it had an error suggesting a rare issue with the vacuum but the mechanic ran a smoke test and couldn't find anything wrong.

 

UPDATE

So, I rented a reader from Autozone and it also shows zero codes. What's odd is that the check engine light is definitely on.

I did attempt to check the fuel pressure but he Schrauder valve is stripped, haha. And, **** the placement of the components over the spark plugs. Checked the compression on the few I could get to easily and it looked good. The plugs themselves were sparking but definitely had a lot of carbon.

Thinking it could be an air flow issue, I removed the air intake hose. It started right up a few times.... and then, thinking I found the issue, I packed up my tools and went to move the truck back to its spot on the driveway and the damned thing wouldn't start again. This was with the air intake hose and MAF sensor removed. I'll try cleaning the MAF sensor, though. It does seem like airflow might be still be the issue somehow.

 

UDATE #2

It fires up sometimes but then will die after 10-15 seconds at most - even if I rev the engine. When it dies while giving it gas, I hear a little backfire. It seems to start more easily if its been sitting for a bit.

The MAF sensor looked clean but I bought cleaner and sprayed it anyway. No change. Air filter looks new.

Still haven't been able to get a fuel pressure reading. Gonna try renting another gauge with different fittings. I'm definitely leaning to a fuel and/or air issue.

I ended up replacing all the spark plugs and wires cause I broke 2 stubborn wires while trying to remove them to check spark and compression. No change. Got spark on the plugs I tested but didn't test every one of them.

The fuel pump is brand new. Could probably change the fuel filter. Reading online suggests that I might have an issue with the fuel pressure regulator but I'm confused if they are talking about the pressure regulator in the fuel pump or the fuel injection pressure regulator on the fuel rail.

 

Welcome to the forum

New fuel pump could be the issue, very common for 3rd party fuel pumps to die out of the box or within a few months, try to get fuel pressure reading to be sure

Simplest thing is, with the help of a friend, pull off the air tube from the upper intake
Have some one try to start it while you keep spraying in fuel to keep it running
If it stays running then for sure a fuel delivery issue
Possible clogged filter but most likely dead pump, there are no codes for either

My 1994 fuel pump finally died, 30 years old
Another test you can do is to relieve the pressure in the system via the test port, its the same as a tires air valve, press in the center pin and fuel/pressure will come out, have a towel down
Once there is the no pressure, cycle the key on count to 3 then turn it off
Test for pressure again, should be 10psi in there with one key on and off, if not pump is dead/not able to pump fuel
You can repeat test and cycle key on and off a few times, should add 10psi each time

Obviously make sure there is gas in the tank, I have chased my tail on faulty gas gauges and friend's poor memories a few times, lol
"Of course there is gas in the tank!!!"......."well pretty sure there is gas in the tank", lol

There are codes for spark issues

 

Fuel definitely gets to the engine cause it will start sometimes.

Since my schrader valve is stripped, I did a test with it off and turned the ignition to the "ON" position. No fuel came out. I then had my girlfriend try to start the car for one second and fuel came gushing out.The pump works, but I do believe that there should be some pressure while the key is at the "ON" position, right?

After that, I had her start the truck with the schrader valve back in. The truck started and idled. Just for kicks, I sprayed starter fluid into the air intake when it sounded like it could have died. Then it kept running on it's own. I had my girlfriend rev the engine just a tiniest bit and the car sputtered and died. We then repeated the same experiment a few times without the starter fluid and got the same results. I did notice that there seems to be a 'click' that happens just before it dies.

I had my girlfriend turn the key to RUN but not so far that the engine would crank. I pressed the pin in the schrader valve and fuel came out. It is priming. I'm going to go to the pull-a-part and get a new schrader valve.

 

Computer activates fuel pump(FP) relay for 2 seconds with key ON and 2 second run time equals about 10psi pressure
Computer will not activate FP relay again until engine RPMs are above 400, cranking speed is 200RPMs
The "click" you hear as engine stalls, drops under 400RPM, is the computer shutting off FP relay

You can cycle the key on and off to build up fuel pressure, if............fuel pump is working like it should

It reads like fuel pump is not providing enough fuel to the engine

1998 and up Rangers should be 50-60psi running fuel pressure
And you should be able to cycle key on and off to get pressure up to 60psi before the in-tank fuel pressure regulator "kicks in" to prevent pressure from going higher
Electric fuel pumps are capable of 80+psi

 

Yep, that's what I'm thinking too. Just went to the pull-a-part and got a new schrader valve. I'm getting like 5psi on the ON state and only 18psi when its running.

 

Whelp, replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Still have the same problem...

 

Same problem as in no fuel pressure?

 

Low pressure, yeah. Same readings as before. I might try swapping this pressure gauge for another one to be 100% certain.

 

Are you changing just the fuel pump or the whole assembly?

The fuel pressure regulator(FPR) is on the assembly sits just above the pump, its round has hose in and hose out

 

Just the pump. I cant seem to find the FPR as a stand-alone part. I did find the whole assembly at rockauto.com.

I might check pressure right at the fuel pump and after the fuel filter just to see.

 

2001 should have a 3 port fuel filter

The 3rd port, off center, runs back to the gas tank and connects to the FPR, this is what holds the pressure above 50psi at the engine end

In 1998-2000 models the in tank FPR was connected directly to the fuel pumps OUT hose, and these used the same 2 port fuel filters as earlier Rangers
But the fuel pressure at the engine wasn't as steady as it should be, it worked OK but could be better
This was truly a "Returnless" fuel system

So in 2001 Ford changed to the 3 port filter using the same in tank FPR style(different FPR) and that made for a more stable fuel pressure at the engine end
This is a "Return" fuel system but with a very short return hose, lol

Reason I mention this is because it matters as to what type of FPR you need and what type of assembly, 2 port filter or 3 port filter will tell you

 

For anybody following this thread, replacing the fuel pump assembly did the tick. Feeling pretty confidant it was the fuel pump regulator that was causing the issues.