2006 Ranger stalls ramdomly/ no voltage
2006 Ranger stalls ramdomly/ no voltage
Yes, I know there are a few threads already about this but, I failed to find one that was like mine, if I'm wrong please forgive me.
My 2006 Ranger just stalls out, shuts down randomly, no juice what so ever (no electricity). Just driving a long and nothing suddenly.
Even did it in the driveway once. Won't even crank right away afterwards but, does start after a few minutes. I haven't really check a lot not knowing what to really check
but, did check the fuses and relays under the hood, also cleaned a battery connection that was corroded and made sure battery was fully charged.
It's like someone just flicked a switch when it dies. Any one know what I should be looking for, checking, etc. Thank you in advance for any help sirs.
My 2006 Ranger just stalls out, shuts down randomly, no juice what so ever (no electricity). Just driving a long and nothing suddenly.
Even did it in the driveway once. Won't even crank right away afterwards but, does start after a few minutes. I haven't really check a lot not knowing what to really check
but, did check the fuses and relays under the hood, also cleaned a battery connection that was corroded and made sure battery was fully charged.
It's like someone just flicked a switch when it dies. Any one know what I should be looking for, checking, etc. Thank you in advance for any help sirs.
Welcome to the forum
No, not a fuse problem or it wouldn't restart.
When an engine is running the Alternator powers everything, battery is not used, battery is only used for starting the engine then not used again until next restart
So for the engine to stall while driving means the alternator power must be shut off and the battery power as well if there is a no crank after the stall
Ignition switch under the steering column could do that
What does the Key feel like when you turn it on and then to START
The Key slides a Rod inside steering column that moves/slides the ignition switch into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START
Does ACC key position work?
PCM Relay could shut off engine while driving but doesn't cut power to cab systems, so lights on dash should be on
2004 and up Rangers uses a Smart Junction Box(SJB) located behind passenger kick panel
SJB runs most of the electrics, so a problem there could shut down engine and all electrics.
But the fact you can restart, using ignition switch, would make me think to start there at the ignition switch
No, not a fuse problem or it wouldn't restart.
When an engine is running the Alternator powers everything, battery is not used, battery is only used for starting the engine then not used again until next restart
So for the engine to stall while driving means the alternator power must be shut off and the battery power as well if there is a no crank after the stall
Ignition switch under the steering column could do that
What does the Key feel like when you turn it on and then to START
The Key slides a Rod inside steering column that moves/slides the ignition switch into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START
Does ACC key position work?
PCM Relay could shut off engine while driving but doesn't cut power to cab systems, so lights on dash should be on
2004 and up Rangers uses a Smart Junction Box(SJB) located behind passenger kick panel
SJB runs most of the electrics, so a problem there could shut down engine and all electrics.
But the fact you can restart, using ignition switch, would make me think to start there at the ignition switch
No panel lights or check engine light, radio shuts off and clears and have to reset time.
Doesn't restart right away all the time and as of late I must wait a few minutes to restart.
Ignition switch feels fine, smooth without sticking and ACC works (Radio On) but, no warning lights like check engine, battery, etc.
I found a relay that was in cockeyed and pushed in flush and check the fuses for arcing in there sockets, not really if they where good or not.
It started right up several times and SEEMED like it was okay but, ya know it won't happen in the driveway all the time.
So would this narrow it down to the SJB and if so, would you know how to fix this? Thank you for your help sir!
Doesn't restart right away all the time and as of late I must wait a few minutes to restart.
Ignition switch feels fine, smooth without sticking and ACC works (Radio On) but, no warning lights like check engine, battery, etc.
I found a relay that was in cockeyed and pushed in flush and check the fuses for arcing in there sockets, not really if they where good or not.
It started right up several times and SEEMED like it was okay but, ya know it won't happen in the driveway all the time.
So would this narrow it down to the SJB and if so, would you know how to fix this? Thank you for your help sir!
Clean battery terminals should have helped prevent radio from losing presets and clock time
Did it?
If not follow Positive and negative cables to their connections to the truck and clean those
Radio KAM(keep alive memory) has separate power supply from battery that does not go thru any switch or relay, so if that keeps happening you know it is a battery cable issue or possibly firewall wiring connections, maybe engine fuse box connections
Did it?
If not follow Positive and negative cables to their connections to the truck and clean those
Radio KAM(keep alive memory) has separate power supply from battery that does not go thru any switch or relay, so if that keeps happening you know it is a battery cable issue or possibly firewall wiring connections, maybe engine fuse box connections
Thank you for the reply sir, I don't know if it solved the problem or not, a bit afraid to drive it very far to find out.
Reckon I'll wait till it happens again and then I'll know.
I did check battery connections but, not at both ends, I'll check those now.
Do you think it may have anything to do with a ground connection inside cab?
I hesitate to go there because of my back issues, if ya know what I mean but, will if need be.
Thank you again for your patience and help sir.
On second thought, its a after market radio/CD player, I didn't install it so both power and memory may be hooked up to the same hot wire.
Reckon I'll wait till it happens again and then I'll know.
I did check battery connections but, not at both ends, I'll check those now.
Do you think it may have anything to do with a ground connection inside cab?
I hesitate to go there because of my back issues, if ya know what I mean but, will if need be.
Thank you again for your patience and help sir.
On second thought, its a after market radio/CD player, I didn't install it so both power and memory may be hooked up to the same hot wire.
Last edited by Forded; Sep 29, 2018 at 02:16 PM.
Don't know much about the SJB either, my knowledge is old school vehicles without all the crapola they have nowadays.
Fuse #1, 40amp in engine fuse box feeds 24/7(all the time) power to the Smart Junction Box
Fuse #24, 20amp in Smart Junction box gets that power and feeds power to radio 24/7, thats the radios KAM power
So power at fuse #1 in Battery Junction box is going off
I show TWO wires connected to Battery Junction box, one from battery positive terminal and one from Alternator, if that connection failed then no power anywhere
Yes, same for Ground, battery negative, but it usually doesn't cause full power outage unless negative battery terminal is the problem.
Although it is rare, ran across it once in 40 years, battery terminal INSIDE the battery could be intermittent, put volt meter on battery and tap on each terminal
Fuse #24, 20amp in Smart Junction box gets that power and feeds power to radio 24/7, thats the radios KAM power
So power at fuse #1 in Battery Junction box is going off
I show TWO wires connected to Battery Junction box, one from battery positive terminal and one from Alternator, if that connection failed then no power anywhere
Yes, same for Ground, battery negative, but it usually doesn't cause full power outage unless negative battery terminal is the problem.
Although it is rare, ran across it once in 40 years, battery terminal INSIDE the battery could be intermittent, put volt meter on battery and tap on each terminal
Fuse #1, 40amp in engine fuse box feeds 24/7(all the time) power to the Smart Junction Box
Fuse #24, 20amp in Smart Junction box gets that power and feeds power to radio 24/7, thats the radios KAM power
So power at fuse #1 in Battery Junction box is going off
I show TWO wires connected to Battery Junction box, one from battery positive terminal and one from Alternator, if that connection failed then no power anywhere
Yes, same for Ground, battery negative, but it usually doesn't cause full power outage unless negative battery terminal is the problem.
Although it is rare, ran across it once in 40 years, battery terminal INSIDE the battery could be intermittent, put volt meter on battery and tap on each terminal
Fuse #24, 20amp in Smart Junction box gets that power and feeds power to radio 24/7, thats the radios KAM power
So power at fuse #1 in Battery Junction box is going off
I show TWO wires connected to Battery Junction box, one from battery positive terminal and one from Alternator, if that connection failed then no power anywhere
Yes, same for Ground, battery negative, but it usually doesn't cause full power outage unless negative battery terminal is the problem.
Although it is rare, ran across it once in 40 years, battery terminal INSIDE the battery could be intermittent, put volt meter on battery and tap on each terminal
BTW my names Ron also, thank you again sir!
Just an Update: I tried to trace all the wiring down as best this cripple ole man could do and found nothing loose, corroded or otherwise.
But, with the exception of the two hot wires connecting to the battery post. There's a cockamamie second connection, eyelet to eyelet type
that had corrosion on it earlier before cleaning but, the pinch points where the wires actually connect was poor (someone screwed around with it)
and they weren't ideal so I cleaned it up and tried to pinch them tighter and re-taped them. Took it for a drive till it was warmed up good and nothing
happen (thankfully) but, I reckon that don't mean it won't again. Just have to keep my fingers crossed at this point.
Again, thank you for all your help sir! If this had been a 60's truck there just wouldn't be an question about why and what was doing this.
And they say progress is a good thing, I reckon it depends what side of the fence your standing on when its said.
But, with the exception of the two hot wires connecting to the battery post. There's a cockamamie second connection, eyelet to eyelet type
that had corrosion on it earlier before cleaning but, the pinch points where the wires actually connect was poor (someone screwed around with it)
and they weren't ideal so I cleaned it up and tried to pinch them tighter and re-taped them. Took it for a drive till it was warmed up good and nothing
happen (thankfully) but, I reckon that don't mean it won't again. Just have to keep my fingers crossed at this point.
Again, thank you for all your help sir! If this had been a 60's truck there just wouldn't be an question about why and what was doing this.
And they say progress is a good thing, I reckon it depends what side of the fence your standing on when its said.
There's a cockamamie second connection, eyelet to eyelet type
that had corrosion on it earlier before cleaning but, the pinch points where the wires actually connect was poor (someone screwed around with it)
and they weren't ideal so I cleaned it up and tried to pinch them tighter and re-taped them.
that had corrosion on it earlier before cleaning but, the pinch points where the wires actually connect was poor (someone screwed around with it)
and they weren't ideal so I cleaned it up and tried to pinch them tighter and re-taped them.
I just don't have what it takes anymore to be climbing all over a vehicle doing repairs, just old and pretty close to worn out. LOL!
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