Hello. I drive a 2007 Ranger 2.3 XL with 5MT. Truck has 64k miles. Recently I have been having starting issues with the clicking sound when the key is moved into the start position. Sometimes the engine fires right up, sometimes I hold the key in the start position and after 4 or so clicks the engine starts. It is unpredictable. I replaced the battery last week ( it was 3.5 years old and leaking ) and installed a new starter/solenoid 3 days ago. The problem persists with the engine firing up immediately or just the clicking sound until it starts. Before I take it to a mechanic, could somebody offer some advice to solve this problem. It has to be a simple fix at this point. Thank you in advance.

 

Welcome to the forum

In the engine bay fuse box is the Starter Relay, thats the "Click" you hear
You can get 2007 owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
It has diagram/layout of fuse box

Pull out that relay and have a look at the pins and slots for corrosion
Swap it with another relay in the box

Ground/negative battery connections
With a 12volt DC system BOTH positive and negative cables must allow same AMP draw, a starter motor needs 60-75 AMPs to turn the engine over, biggest AMP use in any vehicle
For the starter motor to get/use positive AMPs it must also be able to pass the same negative AMPs back to battery, its a circuit, a circle of power
People tend to focus on the Positive wires/cables, but the negative wires and cable must pass the same power or it doesn't work same as no positive power


2007 Ranger also has PATS(passive anti-theft system) which prevents start up, but with key on there would be a fast flashing THEFT light on the dash, this indicates the transponder key in the ignition did not "pass the PATS test", which you don't mention so I doubt that's the issue

 

Thank you so much RonD for the analysis. The starter relay is one of a couple things I was going to check out. I needed to put a new battery in but probably not a new starter. I'll try the starter relay route and report back. Thanks again, I really appreciate it!

 

Well, I swapped out the relay from the 47 slot ( engine fan ) into the 48 slot ( starter relay ) with no change so it does not appear to be the relay. In fact, when I crank the engine it just clicks on and on for about 6 seconds and stops. The truck started fine about an hour ago, drove to the store and it started ok when I returned home. I am frustrated. All my connections are clean and tight. Now what?

 

And actually, it sounds like the loud clicking is coming from the solenoid. And this is a brand new starter. So could it be the ignition switch?

 

What condition are the battery cables ? I've seen them corroded internally and cause this kind of problem.

If the cable looks like this where it meets the terminal.


There's a good chance the cable is worse inside

 

Hi 2011Supercab, yeah i am considering all angles and mine appear to be in pretty good shape...I appreciate the suggestion and it is a good one. I am afraid if it doesn't start by tomorrow morning, its going to a shop for professional assistance. It is an erratic issue to be sure. All it is doing now is clicking for about 6 seconds and stops. It could start in an hour or so. The LAST thing I suppose I could do is replace the ignition module but I'm pretty certain it is not the culprit

 

That's a different symptom
IF............you hear a "click, click, click....." when key is turned to START, then battery cable issue for sure, or battery voltage is low

A single "click" is much different

Starter motor needs 60 to 75AMPs to turn the engine, which is why the battery cables, Positive and Negative, are so large
If either the positive or negative larger cable can not pass the 60-75amps, when starter motor is activated, then it drops ALL the amps/volts in the whole truck, so the starter relay can not be held closed, so "click(closed), click(open)", which STOPS starter from getting voltage, so volts go back up, and "click, click" again, and again, and again
So you then KNOW its a battery cable issue, 60-75amps is not available to starter motor from battery

 

Thank you all, I guess I can purchase a pos/neg battery cable loom ( it is all concealed ). I will investigate and let you know how it turns out.

 

I don't think the entire loom assembly is available for purchase. If I purchase pos and neg cables, how do I remove and replace when the existing cables are wrapped up internally in the loom?

 

Just open the loom

 

Okay, it appears I have fixed the problem. I disconnected all points of contact from the starter to the battery to the fuse/relay box to the body ground. I reconnected all and replaced one of the battery terminal clamps that was a bit sketch and submerged the other in a baking soda/warm water solution and cleaned it thoroughly. And now it starts perfectly. I want to thank both of you guys for the guidance. I truly appreciate it.

And before this thread gets removed, I had a collision with a jersey barrier on black ice last week that deployed the steering wheel airbag. A local guy is selling one that is already out of a wrecked 2008. Is this a recommended way to go and is installing one a DIY affair? He is asking 250 and it is already pulled. Thanks in advance!

 

Airbags store a charge for 15 minutes or so, unhook one battery cable FIRST, then wait 15min before starting work on the steering wheel