97 Ranger 3.0 Idle
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From: Thomaston
97 Ranger 3.0 Idle
Does anyone know how to slow the idle rpm down?
And NO! I don’t have a vacuum leak.
currently idles around 900. Would like to get it down around 600-650.
Also, on another problem. My parking brake ratchets most of its travel without moving the cable. Only pulls cable the last 2-3 knotches of its travel. I read somewhere that it needs retensioning, however, I can’t uncover how to do it...
Thanks for any help,
Larry
And NO! I don’t have a vacuum leak.
currently idles around 900. Would like to get it down around 600-650.
Also, on another problem. My parking brake ratchets most of its travel without moving the cable. Only pulls cable the last 2-3 knotches of its travel. I read somewhere that it needs retensioning, however, I can’t uncover how to do it...
Thanks for any help,
Larry
The computer sets the idle on fuel injected engines, it uses what Ford calls the IAC(idle air control) Valve to do this
After engine is fully warmed up, let it idle and unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve
RPMs should drop to 500 or so, or engine may even stall, either is good, it means no vacuum leaks and anti-diesel screw hasn't been messed with
If RPMs do not drop then first look on the throttle linkage for the anti-diesel screw, looks like an "idle screw" but everyone knows you can't use an "idle screw" with fuel injection, lol
Turn this screw counter-clockwise to see if RPMs start to drop, if RPMs drop then keep turning until engine is barely running, if not turn it back to where it was
If anti-diesel screw is set OK then try closing throttle more manually, or loosen TPS(throttle position sensor) a bit and see if throttle plate closes more to lower idle
Try spraying quick start or soapy water around throttle body to see if there is a vacuum leak
If RPMs do drop to 500 or so when you unplug IAC Valve then Computer is setting the high idle, this can be to pass emissions in 1997 or it could be a glitch in the software, you can check if your VIN has a software update at a Ford Dealer
Automatics have a 750-800rpm idle in Park/Neutral, 800-850 In Gear, that's quite normal
Manual trans can be as low as 625-650rpm
The 3.0l Vulcan engine is a high RPM engine by design
Its power/torque range is 3,300-3,900rpms
Most engines are 2,300-2,900rpms
Check e-brake cable on driver side frame rail to see if there is an adjustment
Also hold out the release handle and pump the pedal a few times to see if it tightens up
After engine is fully warmed up, let it idle and unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve
RPMs should drop to 500 or so, or engine may even stall, either is good, it means no vacuum leaks and anti-diesel screw hasn't been messed with
If RPMs do not drop then first look on the throttle linkage for the anti-diesel screw, looks like an "idle screw" but everyone knows you can't use an "idle screw" with fuel injection, lol
Turn this screw counter-clockwise to see if RPMs start to drop, if RPMs drop then keep turning until engine is barely running, if not turn it back to where it was
If anti-diesel screw is set OK then try closing throttle more manually, or loosen TPS(throttle position sensor) a bit and see if throttle plate closes more to lower idle
Try spraying quick start or soapy water around throttle body to see if there is a vacuum leak
If RPMs do drop to 500 or so when you unplug IAC Valve then Computer is setting the high idle, this can be to pass emissions in 1997 or it could be a glitch in the software, you can check if your VIN has a software update at a Ford Dealer
Automatics have a 750-800rpm idle in Park/Neutral, 800-850 In Gear, that's quite normal
Manual trans can be as low as 625-650rpm
The 3.0l Vulcan engine is a high RPM engine by design
Its power/torque range is 3,300-3,900rpms
Most engines are 2,300-2,900rpms
Check e-brake cable on driver side frame rail to see if there is an adjustment
Also hold out the release handle and pump the pedal a few times to see if it tightens up
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