98+ Ranger Frames
98+ Ranger Frames
Is any 98+ ranger from the cab back is the frame the same?
Does it matter if they are extended cab or reg cab? Assuming both are short bed.
If I have a 98 ranger regular cab will the back half of the frame bolt to the back half of my 2003 Extended Cab Ranger? I am not worried about like the gas tank, more of the shock mounts and the bed...
If so do the frames actually come apart? they appear as if they are riveted together? The front and the rear?
I could get a 98 cheap, my rear half of frame is screwed up so bad... I would like to just replace it.
Does it matter if they are extended cab or reg cab? Assuming both are short bed.
If I have a 98 ranger regular cab will the back half of the frame bolt to the back half of my 2003 Extended Cab Ranger? I am not worried about like the gas tank, more of the shock mounts and the bed...
If so do the frames actually come apart? they appear as if they are riveted together? The front and the rear?
I could get a 98 cheap, my rear half of frame is screwed up so bad... I would like to just replace it.
Originally Posted by zabeard
REAR FRAME! read man read. lol
if its past the cab area it should work, only way to tell is to measure i guess.
i always thought the frame was solid, nothing a welder and some bolts couldn't fix haha.
nevermind i think i answered my own question.
they disconnect further back. my frame is bent at the yellow circle. and it disconnects at the red...
they disconnect further back. my frame is bent at the yellow circle. and it disconnects at the red...
Last edited by zabeard; Aug 26, 2008 at 09:44 AM.
ALL Ranger rear parts of the frame are the same......BUT i don't think they are in 2 halfs......the side channels are 2 different pieces that are held together by the crossmembers........i don't think that the frame splits in have across...
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
ALL Ranger rear parts of the frame are the same......BUT i don't think they are in 2 halfs......the side channels are 2 different pieces that are held together by the crossmembers........i don't think that the frame splits in have across...
i am going to verify that tonight but i think they can be taken apart.
Originally Posted by D94R
If not, cut it off, and do it like you would if you were back halfing it, only you'd be using a stock back half. Can't be hard to properly brace/box that section in to be as strong or stronger than OEM.
Back half it, throw a bunch of crossmembers on it and call it a day! I say you should have close to no frame flex with it done your way!
I only have one shop manual and it is for 2002. There are frame dimensions in the back.
The rear frame section for the reg cab/7' long box is completely different and could not be used without modification.
The dimensions at the rear of all the short beds are almost the same. For some odd reason, the 4x4 Supercab only (like yours) shows a unique, 1/4" shorter diagonal dimension across the frame "box" around the axle opening. Also, since it is not meant to be disassembled, there are no dimensions given for the actual location of the riveted junction.
To be on the totally safe side, you could limit yourself to 2001~2003 4x4 Supercabs only. There are plenty of them out there. Or maybe you can take some measurements of regular and S/C frames of different years to see if the junction looks like its in the same location relative to the forward spring mounts. I'd also check the frame rail height just in case Ford made it taller for the Supercabs.
The rear frame section for the reg cab/7' long box is completely different and could not be used without modification.
The dimensions at the rear of all the short beds are almost the same. For some odd reason, the 4x4 Supercab only (like yours) shows a unique, 1/4" shorter diagonal dimension across the frame "box" around the axle opening. Also, since it is not meant to be disassembled, there are no dimensions given for the actual location of the riveted junction.
To be on the totally safe side, you could limit yourself to 2001~2003 4x4 Supercabs only. There are plenty of them out there. Or maybe you can take some measurements of regular and S/C frames of different years to see if the junction looks like its in the same location relative to the forward spring mounts. I'd also check the frame rail height just in case Ford made it taller for the Supercabs.
Screw all the stock stuff, take my back half example and put it to real application.
I bet you probably wouldn't have anything more than extra time invested in a real square tube'd back half.
That way you can set it up however you want.
I bet you probably wouldn't have anything more than extra time invested in a real square tube'd back half.
That way you can set it up however you want.
Originally Posted by rwenzing
I only have one shop manual and it is for 2002. There are frame dimensions in the back.
The rear frame section for the reg cab/7' long box is completely different and could not be used without modification.
The dimensions at the rear of all the short beds are almost the same. For some odd reason, the 4x4 Supercab only (like yours) shows a unique, 1/4" shorter diagonal dimension across the frame "box" around the axle opening. Also, since it is not meant to be disassembled, there are no dimensions given for the actual location of the riveted junction.
To be on the totally safe side, you could limit yourself to 2001~2003 4x4 Supercabs only. There are plenty of them out there. Or maybe you can take some measurements of regular and S/C frames of different years to see if the junction looks like its in the same location relative to the forward spring mounts. I'd also check the frame rail height just in case Ford made it taller for the Supercabs.
The rear frame section for the reg cab/7' long box is completely different and could not be used without modification.
The dimensions at the rear of all the short beds are almost the same. For some odd reason, the 4x4 Supercab only (like yours) shows a unique, 1/4" shorter diagonal dimension across the frame "box" around the axle opening. Also, since it is not meant to be disassembled, there are no dimensions given for the actual location of the riveted junction.
To be on the totally safe side, you could limit yourself to 2001~2003 4x4 Supercabs only. There are plenty of them out there. Or maybe you can take some measurements of regular and S/C frames of different years to see if the junction looks like its in the same location relative to the forward spring mounts. I'd also check the frame rail height just in case Ford made it taller for the Supercabs.
Originally Posted by D94R
Screw all the stock stuff, take my back half example and put it to real application.
I bet you probably wouldn't have anything more than extra time invested in a real square tube'd back half.
That way you can set it up however you want.
I bet you probably wouldn't have anything more than extra time invested in a real square tube'd back half.
That way you can set it up however you want.
i have also thought about that. I just need to get me a better welder for that.
i am thinking 3x2 square tube and actually put more of an arch in it so that i no longer need the body lift blocks under the bed.
plus with my b2 tank i am going to put in and the possible chance of 4 linking it, it would only be fitting i think.
your frame is still messed up from the "incident"?
thought you had it straightened at a frame shop?
people do frame resections all the time, just cut in a "Z" pattern so that you have more weld area. might be a good time to box it too.
thought you had it straightened at a frame shop?
people do frame resections all the time, just cut in a "Z" pattern so that you have more weld area. might be a good time to box it too.
Originally Posted by nated0g
your frame is still messed up from the "incident"?
thought you had it straightened at a frame shop?
people do frame resections all the time, just cut in a "Z" pattern so that you have more weld area. might be a good time to box it too.
thought you had it straightened at a frame shop?
people do frame resections all the time, just cut in a "Z" pattern so that you have more weld area. might be a good time to box it too.
he did get it fixed it just went right back to what it was.
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