Does anyone know what level you fill the clutch reservoir to?

I found it very nearly empty and very yellow, i've drained it through now, but i don't see any level markings.

Also, does the black pressure rubber thingy attach to the lid?

 

Never mind, if i had a brain, i'd be dangerous.

Turned over the cap....

 

Not overflowing and not empty is the correct level

It is just a gravity fed reservoir, so if fluid is lost gravity causes it to run down out of the reservoir and into the Master when clutch pedal is up all the way, it has a vented cap.
One-way valve in the master closes when clutch pedal is pushed in preventing fluid from running back up into the reservoir.

I have run Rangers for years without rubber insert and with it, doesn't matter if it is there or not, just matters that fluid level never runs dry

 

Yeah, the rubber part is just an over pressure thing as far as i can see.

The rubber part does not attach to the lid on mine, it did on earlier Rangers.

The picture of the cap i posted states fill to step, it's not an actual step, but a marker half way up, then when inserting the rubber pressure bulb, it pushes liquid to below the thread line.

I think not having dirty yellow fluid in the line will help some

 

The biggest problem comes in Bleeding the System... can be a problem, may not be to some !

 

Yeah, i'm reading nothing but hassle and/or super custom techniques to bleed.

I don't believe mine needs bleeding though, just low and old fluid.

 

I've heard using a vacuum pump and bleeding from the top helps.

The only other way to get it done correctly is to remove the system and bench bleed while hanging the Slave,

I had my clutch replaced last year after 80K miles, had to return to the shop twice before they got it done and they used a vacuum bleeding system.

 

You can bleed the master effectively in the truck,but it will need to be disconnected from the firewall so that it can be angled properly to release trapped air pockets. It's a pain, but easier than disconnecting the hydraulics and bench bleeding then reconnecting without introducing air.

 

Vacuum bleeding it sounds like a good idea if bleeding it needed, thankfully i think i'm good there.

 

I would like to know how Ford fills/bleeds the system at the factory.
It's a production line vehicle, the line works are not going to carefully and painfully bench bleed the master cylinder and line while tapping it to remove any trapped air in "that" system.
It takes way too long.
I think they must be using a mechanical robotic bleeder _ either pushing the fluid in or sucking it through the system.

 

Well, i know they came out with a TSB on how to bleed their systems as it was proving very difficult :(

I gotta imagine they pressure fill at the factories.

Slightly related, my clutch pedal is squeaking every so often, does anyone know if this a lube issue at a specific point? or something else?

 

First to check are the mechanical working of the pedal itself _ pivot points and such and where the linkage of the master cylinder connects to the pedal arm.

It's a bear to get at, the seat is in the way.
You can remove the access panel just below the steering column and it makes it a little easier.
Undue the hood release lever bolts and the panel can be popped out with your bare hands.

If I had to do majour work in that area, I would remove the drivers seat.

And when you say squeaking, could it be the clutch release bearing ?
Usually when that goes, it makes noise all the time, not just occasionally.

 

Nah, this is most certainly within the cab likely the pedal picot points.

I briefly sprayed some lube up there a little while back, it's better, but as you say, access was terrible and i'm betting it's just needing another application.